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Switchstand construction

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  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Sandy Eggo, CA
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Posted by Ray Dunakin on Thursday, July 8, 2010 8:33 PM
Very nice! Good-looking, clever concept.
 Visit www.raydunakin.com to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!
  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Oakley Ca
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Posted by dwbeckett on Thursday, July 8, 2010 11:46 AM
ttrigg

Mick

Awesome concept! Prepare to be imitated! Thanks for sharing.

Me too, I like what you did

Dave

The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: North, San Diego Co., CA
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Posted by ttrigg on Wednesday, July 7, 2010 1:52 PM

Mick

Awesome concept! Prepare to be imitated! Thanks for sharing.

Tom Trigg

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: State College, Pennsylvania
  • 462 posts
Posted by PJM20 on Wednesday, July 7, 2010 5:07 AM

Wow, what a clever idea, thanks for sharing it with us. - Peter

Modeling the Bellefonte Central Railroad

Fan of the PRR

Garden Railway Enthusiast

Check out my Youtube Channel:

http://www.youtube.com/user/PennsyModeler 

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • 140 posts
Switchstand construction
Posted by Mt Beenak on Wednesday, July 7, 2010 2:58 AM

Here is a brief overview of how I built the switchstand which appeared in this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahdIazQD2hA

I started with a white metal casting of a 1:10 point lever.  I got a bunch of these years ago at a train show.  They were made to screw onto old manual telephone exchange switches.  They work okay, but are out of scale to have on a layout.  You could easily build levers with a few pieces of brass rod and shapes.  I use minature DPDT switches as the pivot and the 'switching'.  The components are laid out below.  The shortened blue lever will have the bottom end filed to fit into the electrical joiner which holds everything together.

The swiches are evenly spaced in a piece of plastic duct I had left over.  This is screwed to the base board.  The wiring goes out underneath the baseboard.  The switches are simply wired as reversing switches.

In the background you can see the timber base I built to go around the plastic channel.  There are steps leading up to it and a simple railing, painted white.  The black grille is the cover which keeps the levers aligned and hides the white plastic underneath.  This is a sheet of .080 styrene and some plastruct pieces cut to an arc to simulate the lever frame.

The switches operate 'Tortoise' slow motion switch motors, wired in pairs as crossovers.  This allows me to use five levers to operate ten points (turnouts).

Incidentally, the plastic duct was also used as part of the frame for two of my critters.

 

Mick

Chief Operating Officer

Northern Timber Company - Mt Beenak

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