Solder and flux question

[PJM20]

Oh, I'm sorry, I am using Brass code 250 track. Thanks for the tips. - Peter

[Greg Elmassian]

Should we assume you are using brass track?

If so, I'd avoid the Tix and stay with standard rosin flux or rosin core or both.

Regards, Greg

 

[NORCAL LOGGER]

Check here for some idea's.

Rick

 

http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/173451.aspx

[ttrigg]

PJM20

, how can you tell if the solder is rosin core and the flux is acid free? Thanks for all the help. – Peter

Peter: read the outside of the package (box) "if the box don’t brag about what I want, then it don’t have what I want, and I don’t buy it." Take a trip over to Radio Shack. You should be able to quickly acquire exactly what you want there. Just take the time to read the box.

[tomikawaTT]

Don't know about the Stay-Brite, but there was a thread over on the small-scaler forum where several posters had some bad things to say about Tix flux.  It seems to be corrosive and will cause failure, probably sooner rather than later.

I've been using Burnley's non-acid soldering paste for several decades now.  It comes in a 2-ounce can, and looks like brown Vaseline.  In conjunction with 60-40 tin-lead solder (with or without rosin core) it produces excellent solder joints guaranteed to last for decades.

Chuck

[PJM20]

I am going to be laying track soon. I need rosin core solder and no acid flux to make turnouts. Are any of these fine for my use: 

http://www.micromark.com/STAY-BRITE-SILVER-SOLDER-AND-FLUX-1and2-OZ-EACH,7556.html 

and   

http://www.micromark.com/TIX-SOLDER-PKG-OF-20-3-STICKS,6707.html                        

And so I don't keep asking this, how can you tell if the solder is rosin core and the flux is acid free? Thanks for all the help. - Peter