Vic, Ray et al,
Here is the third segment on the Rail Tractors, or critters on my garden ralway.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahdIazQD2hA
Enjoy.
Mick
Chief Operating Officer
Northern Timber Company - Mt Beenak
OK, now you got my curiosity up! I love the switch throw stand. Was it just an illusion, or did the motorman bend at the waist when he was jostled?
Tom Trigg
Tom,
The two characters on this loco are cast white metal. I bought them years ago from a stall at a train show, and now I cannot find any more. They add good ballast to the loco. They are both held in place with a small self tapping screw up one leg. I back the screw off a little to allow them to move around when the tractor moves...but they don't bend at the waist.
The switch stand operates all ten points (turnouts) with five levers, as the points are wired as pairs (crossovers) The throws are 'Tortoise' point motors. Do you think the switchstand is worth a video?
Thanks for the feedback.
Mt Beenak Tom, Do you think the switchstand is worth a video?
Tom, Do you think the switchstand is worth a video?
I'm very interested in the switchstand, video OK, I would prefer photos with description best.
ttrigg Mt Beenak Tom, Do you think the switchstand is worth a video? I'm very interested in the switchstand, video OK, I would prefer photos with description best.
I agree. This third critter is my favorite of the ones you've shown us. How did you make the radiator?
The radiator might be part of the Catipillar engine block he used. Here is a picture of a similar one:
http://shop.cat.com/products/M37/150/30/10
-Peter
Modeling the Bellefonte Central Railroad
Fan of the PRR
Garden Railway Enthusiast
Check out my Youtube Channel:
http://www.youtube.com/user/PennsyModeler
Peter,
I wish I had seen this before I built the critter. The radiator is actually scratchbuilt. The surround is a single piece of plastic U channel heated and bent to shape. The radiator core is three pieces of perforated stainless steel joined side by side. It is sold as HO decktread or louvre grille. The radiator cap was an unknown hex shaped piece I found in my scrap box. The radiator hoses and exhaust pipes are large gauge solder, painted black for rubber and rust for steel.
The diesel engine I used was a plastic kit. It is not highly accurate because I wanted to back date it to the era I model (late 30's - early 40's) I was not happy with the top of the engine, so I stuck the barrel there as a gravity feed fuel tank.
I am yet to take photos of the switchstand to show how it was built, but I will give you a hint, I cheat. It is all very simple.
Well that just show either how gulible I am or how great oyur scratchbuilding skills are or a little of both! - Peter
ttrigg I'm very interested in the switchstand, video OK, I would prefer photos with description best.
I have started a new post called 'Switchstand construction' to describe how I built it. Hope it is clear enough.
Could you maybe take a close-up picture of the radiator?
For the U-channel (in building a radiator) I could use this, right? ( http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/Shapes.htm#Channels )
From memory, I think that is exactly what I used. It looks right. I will take a picture later today and post, along with some dimensions, however dimensions are not critical. What looks best is what fits best with the engine you are using.
I just remembered something I heard awhile ago: cut off the heads (and points) of some screws (and then further cut the screws to the proper length) to make the insides of a model radiator.
IRB Souther Engineer Could you maybe take a close-up picture of the radiator?
Yes. But I regret it. I have just had my first real close up of the quality of my modelling skills. I must get my eyes checked. I have accidentally modelled a corroded radiator which has had a repaint. The only distressing I wanted was the rust stains I painted on.
There are five vertical strips of etched stainless steel grille, sold as HO diesel grille (like the high side of an E-8) I have also seen a similar product listed on the Walthers catalogue as roofwalk for box cars. I joined the strips with superglue (ACC) and added a thin plastic brace at the back of each joint.
The channel is the .250 (6.3mm) evergreen channel you had the link to. Where it bends over the top there was a gap, which I filled with a strip of styrene cut to fit. I added a second strip at the top and bottom to represent the top and bottom tanks. There is an inlet and outlet hose bent to fit and glued on at the back, made from thick resin core solder, and painted black to represent rubber. I think the radiator cap was originally the centre wheel nut from a 1:24 car model kit.
Note that I only modelled the front face of the radiator. If I had enough grille left I would have put a layer at the back to represent the rear, but I ran out and got lazy. Sue me!
Now I know why they have the ten foot rule.
Trust me your modeling skills are fine compared to mine so far! Very detailed and nice weahtering. Your first picture looks like a 1:1 scale version of it. Keep it coming
- Peter
Mt Beenak Yes. But I regret it. I have just had my first real close up of the quality of my modelling skills. I must get my eyes checked. I have accidentally modelled a corroded radiator which has had a repaint. The only distressing I wanted was the rust stains I painted on. Note that I only modelled the front face of the radiator. If I had enough grille left I would have put a layer at the back to represent the rear, but I ran out and got lazy. Sue me! Now I know why they have the ten foot rule.
I think this one passes the ten INCH rule! It may not have turned out as you had designed, but I love it. Should you decide to scrap it, give a call to UPS, they know where my front door is located!
Get the Garden Railways newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month