Good deal. If it is stranded, try to waterproof the end so that water does not get into the wire itself (there are tiny spaces between the strands that can "absorb" water).
Get some of that "liquid rubber" that you paint on the end where you have stripped the wire, at home depot.
Regards, Greg
Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.
Click here for Greg's web site
Okay. The 14 gauge wire has been installed.
Okay, I'll pick up some 14 gauge wire soon. Eventually I'll do the feeder wires.
I'd stick with 14 gauge, and you should only need feeders every 20-30 feet or so. Even this will be a bit of overkill for 2-3 locos, but remember lighted cars can add a lot of additional current.
I would "home run" each feeder wire if possible.
You could get away with less, but is the small cost savings worth it?
I use code 332 rail (Aristocraft), with split jaw and Aristocraft rail clamps-no jumpers. I usually run 2-3 engines (maximum) at a time. I use the Aristocraft Train Engineer remote system powered by the (Aristocraft) 10-amp power supply.
My RR has a mix of 14ga/16ga main feeders with 18 and 20ga jumpers ( The higher the number the smaller the wire ),placed every 8-10 ft apart. I have run 7 F3's with no problems. I have about 200 ft track wired.
Dave
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
The Home of Articulated Ugliness
Really depends on the number of locos you are running, type of rail, and if you use clamps, joiners, jumpers.
Please provide some more information.
You might read what I have written on this subject:
http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mainmenu-27/track-mainmenu-93/track-powerwiring-mainmenu-237
What is the best wire gauge for connecting your track to your power supply? Awhile ago the guy that helped me build my RR used audio/speaker wire for this connection. The wire seems really under gauge. I just noticed this recently (how unfortunate).
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