Need non-conductive grease recommendation

[Greg Elmassian]

Be sure to wipe the rails afterwards before running trains!

I had some Aristo locos with worn wheels, the wheels are plated steel, and the wheels rust easily after the plating has gone.

I tried the crc product, and it seemed to do a good job of penetrating the rust, so I sprayed it on the rails... the good news was that it really cleaned all the rust off the wheels.

The bad news is that the rust and other contaminants formed a greasy sticky slippery sludge on the rails which took a long time to get off. It was so slippery that my GP7 could not pull a track cleaning car on level track!

 

Regards, Greg 

[dmikee]

Try using CRC-26 spray for maintenance of track joints, points, etc. Available at Home Depot for under $3.00 in the electrical dept. Penetrates and re-establishes conductivity even under the most adverse conditions. Recommend it highly!

[SoCalJoe]

Thanks Greg.  Great recommendations for weather proofing (as much as possible) the switch.

Regards,

Joe

[Greg Elmassian]

Dielectric means "noncunducting substance" or "insulator"...

LGB grease is NOT conductive.

So why the confusion?, well, here it is: Using grease to keep moisture and corrosion out of connections will HELP KEEP conductivity, by avoiding corrosion.

The grease itself is not conductive. LGB really confused people with their labelling.

To top it off, because greases often contain graphite, people ASSUME they are conductive.

There is only one truly conductive grease on the model train market, from Aristo, and it has been documented to eat certain plastics, so don't use it (Electrolube, or Electralube).

oops, almost forgot: you need to try to squirt grease into the microswitch where the plunger is.

All the rest of the exposed connections, hit with silicon caulking. Loctite on the screws from the throwbar and the points is a good idea. Grease up the pivot screws at the ends of the points.

There's more info on my site.

 

Regards, Greg

[sfcgadget]

I have used LGB brand grease for several years with great results. A tube will last a long time because you don't need too much in each track joiner. A little blob about the size of a BB will do. If you can afford it, run a electrical bus with feeders every 20 feet or less and use track clamps too. When I took my first run this spring, I decided to try it without cleaning the track just as an experiment. Out of about 300 feet, the engine stalled only once and that was only due to bird poop on the rail. I cleaned the rail with an LGB Brick any way and should be set for a long time. 

[SoCalJoe]

Hi guys:

I just purchased an Aristocraft #6 turnout (pretty!) which uses a micro-switch.  The instructions recommend coating it with a non-conductive grease for outside installation.  Can you recommend one?

Also, I am a bit confused about dielectric grease.  I understand that it is conductive, but I've read posts to the contrary.  Anyone care to comment?

Thanks!

Joe