For those that have not used the new Aristo clamps yet, they are pretty good. I have swtiched from using Split Jaw to Aristo. They are cheaper and seem to get a better grip on the rail. They don't look as nice as the Split Jaws, so painting them after installed might be a good option.
Mark
M. Gilger - President and Chief Engineer MM&G web
Web Site: http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com/
One fellow out here in Denver just uses small stainless steel screws set into the base of the rail on the outside, through the rail joiner. He drills a hole first, then puts the screws in. I wish I remember the size of the screws he uses. They're not too big, but not super small, either. They're a bit bigger than the Aristo screws, with coarser threads. He claims not to have any conductivity problems with that arrangement, and every time I've seen his trains running, they run quite smoothly.
Later,
K
I heard to pack the ties with wet sand to keep them from melting and to use pencil lead to control solder flow. I don't know if it works though.
OK, Jack, this is how I do it. 5-ft sections of flex rail soldered into 10-ft lengths. I use a jig to ensure the rail sections are absolutely straight. See photo.
2x4 with a slot down the side just large enough to fit a single rail snugly. A rather large notch cut into the 2x4 to allow flame access to the new rail joint. I use a propane torch. I run the ends of the rail across the wire wheel side of my bench mounted grinder to ensure it is "clean". Place a rail in each end of the jig with the ends exposed in the notch. I use Plumbing solder (California grade 60/40 tin/silver {lead free}). I put the flux inside the cheap brass slip on rail joiner. Slip the parts together so the joint is inside the notch. Apply flame to this side of joint and solder to the other side so solder will flow through the joint. Let the joint set for a couple of minutes. After the joints are properly cooled I slip on the ties and head to the right-of-way to install the track.
Some of the other folks here have perfected a method of electrically soldering with the ties in place and wet cloths to preserve the ties, but when I tried it I melted a bunch of ties so I don’t do it that way.
Tom Trigg
Jack: I would concur with IRB’s questions and comments. Split Jaw and Hillman’s are the best way to go, Aristo looks to be a very good "second choice". (I’ve not used them as they were not available when I was doing my construction, so I cannot comment on their quality, other than I like the looks and price.) How about reducing the number of clamps needed. I solder 5-ft sections into 10-ft lengths and then use Split Jaw.
Split jaw and Hillmans are the best, but Arisocraft ones are comparable and a lot cheaper. I use Aristo and Split Jaw. But first off, do you run live steam, battery or track power? And also what brand and/or code of track do you have? I think Aristo connectors only work with code 332, but Split Jaw and Hillman make connectors for 332 and 250. If you run battery or live steam you could get away with the flimsy joiners (and the little screws) that come with most track, but if you use track power you need the expensive connectors-you get better conductivity, reliability, etc.
those are the Aristo's
those are the flimsy one's you don't really want
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