Soldering

[PJM20]

What kind of soldering equipment/supplies do you guys use? Thanks for the help. - Peter

[Greg Elmassian]

 I use a Hakko 936, temperature controlled station.

Works great, and usually at 800 degrees. I turn it up for tough jobs.

Many different tips available, I usually use a 3/16" chisel point, that transfers heat quicker and better than a needle pointed one for most jobs.

 

Regards, Greg

[kstrong]

I'm a bit lower tech. I've got a Radio Shack 35 watt (?) soldering iron that I've had for 15 years or so. When I need more than that, I've got a cheap Harbor Freight 100/250 watt gun (though I really need to replace it with a proper Weller gun--I just don't use it that often enough to notice that it's really a crappy imitation). When I need more than that, I've got a small butane pencil torch, then the Bernz-o-matic. When I need more than that, I call friends with propane or oxy/acetylene rigs. :)

Having said that, if you're going to be doing a lot of electronics work, get a rig like Greg's. Not so much for the temperature-controlled tip (though that's nice) but because the cheap pencil-style soldering irons get hot to the touch at the grip. A good-quality pencil will have a nice insulated (typically cork or something) grip.

Later,

K

[cabbage]

I use a 15W, 25W or 150W Weller soldering iron. But more important than the iron is the type of solder that you are using. I use a standard 60/40 solder tallow core for most electrical joints and then a Resin cored solder containing 2% silver for the electronic joints. For structural soldering I use what we call in the UK "Silver Solder". This is a high melting point (over 600C plus) and this is normally heated and clamped in a MAPP or Propane flame... regards ralph

[PJM20]

Ok, have have idea have how I am going to solder. Would it be wise to use the solder paste with flux and just apply it on the edges of my work and use a torch or should I use the solid solder and heat up the edges of my work and then let the solder melt on. I will be soldering .032 thick brass and Lionel 0-27 track, which I think is stainless steel. Thanks - Peter

[ttrigg]

Peter: One problem with your plans. Stainless is not solderable, at least as far as I know. It can be welded, however most (if not all) of the stainless compounds produce gases that are not compatible for living beings to breathe. When working stainless please ensure you have lots of positive ventilation and are wearing the proper protective equipment. Please check with some of the other folks here and at your school metal shop before proceeding.

Talk to more folks about using solder paste, every time I’ve tried it I ended up with a "cold solder" joint that is not so strong and not as conductive as a joint using "spool solder" and flux. When I solder I use lead free plumbing solder. It is a silver-tin composition (60/40) and paste flux. Some folks prefer electrical solder (also 60/40 silver/tin but with a rosin flux core.) Applying flux before soldering allows the molten solder to flow easier through the joint towards the heat, thus providing a solid joint that is electrically conductive.

[cabbage]

There are solder fluxes that will attack stainless steel alloys enabling you to solder them -however these compounds are not really "domestic" -more industrial... If you are trying to electrically "bond" your sections of track together then I would suggest that you drill through the rail and then fit it with a brass nut and bolt. This will solder very easily. regards ralph

[PJM20]

For the solid solder I should just put my work in a clamp, put some flux on the edges, heat up the edges of my work then take a rod of the solder and put it at the edge and just let it melt onto my work. Is this correct? - Peter

[ttrigg]

Yes, ensure the parts are clean, apply the flux, apply heat at one end, apply the solder at the other end and let the heat draw the solder through.