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Switches for different track legs

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Posted by grandpopswalt on Monday, March 15, 2010 1:33 PM

 That website is www.rr-concepts.com (2 r's not 3).

 Walt

"You get too soon old and too late smart" - Amish origin
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Posted by Sp1d3y on Monday, March 15, 2010 8:04 AM

How every anyone thinks it would work, Im open to as many suggestions as possible. I am going to take a look at the items from www.rrr-concepts.com too.  Thanks everyone.

 

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Posted by Greg Elmassian on Sunday, March 14, 2010 11:01 PM

 Might be a way to have a big capacitor on the rails and when you cut the power, it helps slow the engine.

Regards, Greg

Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.

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Posted by jhsimpson62 on Sunday, March 14, 2010 6:09 AM

J. Sounds like you may find what you are looking for here: www.rr-concepts.com  Jack

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Posted by Sp1d3y on Saturday, March 13, 2010 9:53 PM

I'll have to Give Greg a shout and thanks for your reply. I really don't want to make the whole thing automated but when the trains on a certain leg and I cut power or add power I am looking for a way to automatically increase or decrease thepower so the train doesn't forcefully start or stop.

Basically the two tracks run parallel and I was going to power them using one transformer. I would then place a SPST switch for each track.  This way I would never have to physically touch the ransformer but just shut off each leg by the switch and the power would gradually decrease or increase depending if I switched that track on or off.

I guess my other option would be to just place a single transformer on each leg and manually decrease the power or increase the power when I want to.

I'm sure it could be done some how but I'm not sure how.  I originally was looking at a dimmer switch but not really sure how that would work.

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Posted by ttrigg on Thursday, March 11, 2010 7:59 PM

J:

Sounds as if you are looking to completely automate your system. Yes, it is possible. Years ago when I was in a smaller scale club, we had a totally automated system that ran itself much as you describe. Our layout, which was very popular at hobby shows ran the "Trans Europa Express" (TEE) through 4 scales on one layout, O up front, then HO, then N, and finally Z off in the "distance". I was part of the carpentry crew, and the electrical crew worked out the specifics of resistor/diode or what ever, and magnet placement on the trains. The closest I came to working on the electronics was installing reed switches in-between the ties. There are a vast number of "small businesses" out there that make modules that do what you want now. I’m sure one of our "Electronics guru’s" (like Greg, for one) can get more specific with you.

Tom Trigg

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Posted by dwbeckett on Thursday, March 11, 2010 5:52 PM

What you are trying to do, I think is possable using LGB brand pre-built electronics. Find an old catalog and check it out. most of the Items needed should be on E-Bay

Dave, Lazyer then most

The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.

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Posted by Sp1d3y on Thursday, March 11, 2010 4:53 PM

Would it be posible to put a relay inline?  Armature relay?  I have no idea what type and all that other stuff but ran across something so wanted to know if that would work.

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Posted by Sp1d3y on Thursday, March 11, 2010 3:52 PM

Thanks.

I actually started to set up the track that way. I'm very new to the Electronic building world so I have many ideas but not sure how they can be made. I'll try and explain and you can let me know if it might be possible.

 

Here we go:

theres power to the track and say the switch is in one position and the train can run normally through the leg.

next go around the train enters the leg and I throw the switch to another position and the train comes to a gradual stop.

as the train is at a stop I then throw the switch to another position and the train powers up in a gradual way.

 

Is this possible? Am I way over my head in this? I am looking into the cell phone thing with the switches too.  I appreciate the help.

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Posted by ttrigg on Thursday, March 11, 2010 12:34 PM

J: All you need to do is add some SPST switches to your wiring and a few isolators and you will be good to go. Use an isolation rail connector at the turnouts on ONE rail per siding. Use a SPST (single pole single throw – on/off) switch to provide power to the isolated rail. There are a gazillion ways to add the switch, from a simple ninety-eight cent switch from Radio Shack to a complex radio/computer remote control switch routed through the Internet controlled from your cell phone. As for speed control when entering the station, you could "daisy-chain" some resistors so that it would slow down in steps, or you could simply decrease the speed on your controller, or again, use your cell phone. One of the guys has posted a thread where he controls everything from his cell phone, it makes for a most interesting read.

Tom Trigg

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Switches for different track legs
Posted by Sp1d3y on Thursday, March 11, 2010 7:33 AM

Heres my delema; I plan on having one power pack to power the entire mainline (it's a big power house, the MRC transformer) and the area where I have the train station there are two lines. I was wanting to wire the lines to switches so I would be able to shut off power to either of them at any given time and yet keep the main line running.  Also I did not want the train to just come to a drastic hault but a more natural smooth rolling stop like a real train.  I was wondering what other people have done and if they make such a thing or if it was possible to place a dimmer switch inline to draw back the power.  The other issue is that I would have one rail powered always by the transformer and the other rail would be connected to the dimmer switch.

I plan on using 12gauge wire for the mainline and 14gauge wire every 10feet to power the track.  The power center would only be <5 feet from the switches at this point.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

 

J

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