I rebuilt the points of my Aristo switches. I found some 5 ply modeling plywood approx 1/8 + thick. I cut a strip to fit between the ties. I moved the point 100/1000 closer. I have not split the reworked switch sense.
I also found that my MTH J3 leading tender wheels are a pit over size. This will take major disassembly work to remove the wheels to adjust.
I am still using the micro switches to kill power to the unused swing rails.
Wheel gauge and flangeway widths work together. The sloppy flangeway works ok because the wheel gauge is too narrow.
If you correct the large flangeway, you will hit the frog guardrail (wing rail) if you don't regauge the wheels properly.
If you regauge the wheels, and do not correct the guard rail flangeways, you may "pick the point" of the frog.
Do yourself a favor and do both. You will be impressed by how much better your trains run.
I went from 7 car trains with occasional derailments to 40-50 car trains with no derailments.
It works.
Regards, Greg
Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.
Click here for Greg's web site
I do not see the Aristo wheel gauge as being a solution. Their gauge is made so that the trucks will negotiate the tightest radius Aristo makes. That still puts a lot of slop in larger radius.
I been successful so far by grinding the base off, to the rail rise, of a section of rail and cutting out for the tie-plates. The my guard rail has work for several test runs.
The next thing I will try is to construct a new (??) sliding rail tie. I will mount the moving rails 1/8 inch closer together. Then readjust my switch throws.
The shim is in the wrong place. I need it just before the points of the rails.
I also cut one of Aristo's rerailer in half and placed each half right after the switchs on the main route. I could only install one of these, limited by space.
The shim that Greg refers to will look like this when in place. You can pick up the stock at Most Ace Hardware stores, or on line at MicroMarc http://www.micromark.com/Metal-Strip.html
Good luck.
Mark
M. Gilger - President and Chief Engineer MM&G web
Web Site: http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com/
It would be a good idea to get the Aristo gauge and check and adjust your wheels. If you have this problem on an unmodified switch, your back to back gauge of your wheels is probably way too tight.
Be aware that the Aristo switches do not meet the specifications of the gauge.
Normally, putting a 0.020" shim on the guard rails will correct the switch problem and work with properly gauged wheels.
The gauge is only about 10 bucks, well worth it.
It took a lot of hair pulling. I identified what the shorting problem is with the Aristo craft switches.
The slop in the wheel is so big, so that they can negotiate the tight radius, catches the narrow gap of the moving rails. Now I know why aristo craft only picks up power for lights and engine power from one wheel. Electrically connecting more that one wheel in a truck. The front wheel contacts the moving rail and the other wheel is still in contact with the riding rail.
I was getting a lot of derailments. I began to notice that the lead wheel of the truck jumping. Looking closely I seen the lead wheel ride up on the point of the moving rail. Most of the time the wheel fell back onto the riding rail.
I still do not understand why the wire fried when their was no car near the switch.
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