I was catching up on my reading and found a referance this subject.Has anyone tryed it latly?
Dave
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
dwbeckett I was catching up on my reading and found a referance this sibject.Has anyone tryed it latly? Dave
Dave: I’ve not tried this one, but I have used "brown" (unbleached) paper towels and coffee filters. I mixed Tight Bond II with 50% water, I then "paint" the surface, lay down the strips of brown paper, and "paint" another coat of TB II. I like it as the "texture" of the towel remains. They seem to hold up well in both sun exposure and in the rains. The epoxy I’m used to is rather thick and seems to me to be hard to work with in order to achieve a "fine" coating. Then again that comment is pure speculation on my part. If I was going to use cardstock, I would probably be using the TB II coating.
Tom Trigg
I've used epoxy coating on paper for one of my caboose roofs, and it's proven to work well. I'll have to try the Titebond II trick, as I've got some roofs to redo. I like the idea of the texture of the brown paper. I think it will look better than the safety tread tape I'm using right now for my roofs. (Besides, the tape shrank!!!)
Later,
K
Kevin: Glad you chimed in as I’ve been wondering how epoxy could be thinned out for very thin coats. If you could, would you please post thinning instructions, or do you use a particular brand that is already thin. Or have I just had a complete senior moment breakdown?
I need to amend my previous post of brown towels and TB II. I have a pair of structures each about three years old. Both were done with brown towels, one with TB II and the other with TB III. Setting the two structures side by side I can see some “yellow streaking” beginning to appear in the TB III. Since both have red wood planking for the roof (old fence boards) and the towels came from the same package, I’m assuming the TB III is the culprit. The three year old TB II roof matches a six month old TB II roof in color, texture, and adhesion. I would be interested if anyone else has observations of this.
I've used it on many things. Though often times I thin it to preserve wood grain or for better penetration into wood or paper. I use isopropyl alcohol like the gas line antifreeze Iso-Heet®, though there are other things you could use to thin it with. Note, it takes a lot longer to set/dry when it's thinned, like a day or two.
GaryR
I've never thinned it. I just use the regular automotive stuff and brush it on. I think if I were looking to make sure it soaked into the card stock thoroughly, I'd be tempted to thin it a bit. (Thanks for the tip about the alcohol, Gary!) I've not used the technique that often. Most often, I'll use it for creating "glass" for clerestory windows. If you want a design on your clerestory windows, you can print the pattern out on regular paper, then brush the paper with the resin. The resin soaks in and turns the paper anywhere from a slightly frosted to completely translucent, depending on the paper. (Newsprint is best for the translucent results). The ink from the printer stays put, and you end up with a nice frosted glass clerestory window for your passenger car.
Most epoxys can be thinned up to 20% with isopropanol or rubbing alchohol, available at most drug stores. Be sure to get the 99% pure or the highest grade you can as the lower grades contain oils. Another way to thin it is to place the mixed epoxy in a dish of hot water or after applying heat the resin with a hair dryer or hot air gun, this will thin it and allow it to penetrate better. Old model airplane builder secret.
Later, R
Kevin: Here’s another thought for “glass”. I’ve done a number of “stained glass” windows. Find a design you wish for your windows. Print them on “Vue-Graph” plastic sheets. Use “Elmer’s Spray Craft Glue”, spray the printed side, and attach to a clear piece of Vue-Graph. The “curtains” in the two front windows and the “stained glass” bird in this bird house were done this way. Stands up to the elements quite well with no color loss or fading in over three years outside. I’ve even gone so far as to download photos for the upstairs windows in my hotel that are not appropriate to view on this site.
For all you “youngsters” out there, Vue-Graphs were the main “animated” instructional tool from the 50’s. Teacher could flip slides and write on them as necessary. Look for them next to the address labels and business card sheets in your local computer printer supply store. Clear plastic sheets 8.5 by 11 inches, smooth on one side, slightly rough on the other so ink will stick.
Thanks for the reminder Tom. I forgot a had a ton of the inkjet transparency film laying here in the drawer next to me. It normally gets used to make printed circuit boards and the like.
I've used acetone and MEK to thin epoxy, but prefer the alcohol. I see it's ok to utter the blasphemy of "model aircraft", of which I am guilty.
GaryR Thanks for the reminder Tom. I forgot a had a ton of the inkjet transparency film laying here in the drawer next to me. It normally gets used to make printed circuit boards and the like.
Quick comment: Do NOT use CA (super glue) to mount "transparency windows". If you like white frostings and streaking then by all means us AC. AC fumes will quickly distort the glazing. I simply spray a bit of Elmer’s Spray Craft Glue to the inside of the window frame. Gives time to shift and adjust as desired holds well, but will not stand up to Chicken and Dog races.
Right you are Tom. Most often, solvent based glues will do the same. Always a good idea to do a test with any glue. Saves some crying later. I don't know of anything that will survive chicken & dog chases
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