Garden Railroad Grade Crossings

[Steam on the Bel Del]

There is a commercial product advertised in Garden Railways by the same guy who makes split jaw and mainline enterprise road beds  I have not tried the product myself. I saw it at ECLSTS and it looked good to me.

Glenn

Blairstown NJ

[cabbage]

I have to produce a crossing for my tracks -the SM32 one and the Gauge '3' one. I intend to cut through the concrete pathway with an angle grinder then insert a length of wooden plank in its place. This will then get grooved to take the SM32 track and the Gauge '3' track. The sides and sleepers will be covered with strips of exterior grade play -leaving just slots for the wheels to move along, I can lift the strips for cleaning and maintenance. This mimics the actual method used by RAILTRACK -but on a far small scale!!! regards ralph

[ttrigg]

OK, I do not intend to start an argument here, just would like to present a different point of view. I refuse to "attach", "nail", "screw" or otherwise affix any rails to solid materials outdoors. Floating rails prevent any problems from rail movement in adjoining areas. In your situation I would remove a section from the sidewalk, about 8~10 inches longer than required for the crossing. Dig down from the top surface of the sidewalk deep enough to place two layers of "red bricks" (or other pavers as you desire). The bricks for the upper layer should be cut/trimmed in length or angles as required to permit the rails to follow the desired route. You will now have a "trench" through the bricks for the rails. Lay down enough crusher fines and tamp into position for the sub-roadbed. Lay the rails so that the rail head is 1/16 inch below the top of sidewalk, now slice up a fence board and insert "grade crossing fill" timbers, just like the 12 inch to the foot guys do a grade crossing.

[Gunsnclapton]

The crossing is a path between the front of my house and backyard and things go over it from wheelbarrels full of gravel and dirt to lawnmowers and bikes and a lot of people. 

 I live in Staten Island NY and yes there is always some kind of frost or snow during the winter.  My Garden railroad is actually burried under 6 inches of heavy wet snow.  We also live a mile from the ocean so it gets VERY humid here in the summer if that helps. 

 I actually just came up with an idea maybe you guys could tell if it will work.  I was planning on using a base of pavers like you said and taking a piece of wood about an inch thick and routering grooves a little deeper than code 250 rail and spiking the rail to the wood inside the groves.  That way the rail would be a little lower than the xing itself and the rail would not be damaged.  

[Greg Elmassian]

I would never embed the track in concrete. If you have frost heave possible, you will thank me for that advice, because it WILL cause a problem eventually.

Even if you have no frost heave, concreting one particular section of track makes it "different" where just normal soil settling or traffic will make it go to a different level than the adjoining track.

I agree with the previous advice of putting a "base" UNDER the track, let the track sit on it. You could use concrete blocks or paver stones.

 If you can elaborate on exactly what will be crossing the track (people, animals, lawn mowers, tractors, tanks) that would help.

Also where do you live?

I have a friend that loves to embed his track in concrete for road crossings. He lives nearby in coastal San Diego. Every 6-10 months, something moves, and usually rips the rails out of the ties... we have to go back in, saw cut the concrete away from the rails, and re-level the track. We tell him not to do it again, and the next time we see it, it's back in concrete!

 Regards, Greg

[two tone]

Hi    And welcome to the forum,    If I was doing a crossing that run over a path I would look at two ways  first cut path out so track is just below top level of the path. and set track on ballest then should need arise you can take it out and remove/ replace if needed.   Second   cut path out and set track on a wood treated base again you can remove if needed.     Hope this helps.       One more thing if in your bio you put where your base is you may find some neer you that would only be to happy to give advice as you can see I live across the pond in the middle of England   

[Gunsnclapton]

A new extension of my layout requires a grade crossing over a heavilly used path.  I was wondering what the best way to build a crossing would be.  I was wondering if I should try to embed the rails in concrete or something more reinforced.