Weathering

[Anonymous]

Troy and all

I have 11+ yrs in model makeing and weathering and it has given me some awards from Jr. High to College. Paint fumes was a killer, back then I had no brain! Now it is totaly gone. [;)]
You can build a tilted L shaped tilited holder for a car or loco that holds it at a angle so you don't have to bend/streach/or just plain make your eyes bug out for seeing what your doing. Lighting is a must. Yeah, buy the lights that have "real sun" type lighting unless you want to keep taking it in and out of spray booth.
Oh yeah, did I say spray booth???? Make it! A/C blower with filter and out the window it goes! Also you can attach a dryer vent exit if you worry about bugs. Still wear a resperator though.
Buildings, the best paint you can buy, check to see if they will apply to your wood or what ever you made it out of.
I would use also a wood primer.
What type of roof? Wood, metal, tile? Wood ages well and remeber there are streaks that run down that roof like in metal also. Just metal is more rustic.
Railway I like to coat my new SS track with dark red and hit it up with abit of black. Remember where engines sit they drip oil/gas/grease. That takes it to the next level I feel.

The loco, which ever it might be, is complex you have to look at all "sides" and under stand where a guys hand goes, foot, door hits, rocks hit, gas over spills and don't forget them trucks and wheels. Only thing shinny on the wheels are the contact points on the wheels to the rail. You can even rust the top of a cab the sides and remember that dark smoke!

Reefers. Rust the hinges and foot holds grab irons, wheels. If there wooden ones then paint peels better off them. Steel just a matter of rust.

Box Cars and other. Mostly steel they rust and can have what they carry in them still on them or inside of them so the color has to be copied.

Tankers. Tankers are a neat subject, go take a look at the ones running now! I looked today and saw I would have to Updated all the cars paint colors!
Some cars had grey with black center line going up and down where they load the chemicals, I have not seen one of those for sale in G scale.
Thing was the whole BNSF train was like that every tank car
Mostly I see on these cars for color that the chemicals slpashed out is lime, white, green and they make a nice looking "paint run" down the sides of the car from the filling point.

Caboose. Well if you can get to radio shack they have a red blinking led in there so called gadit section. Black box with a LED on it, blinks nice too.
Ok, cabooses I love they get handled I think more ruff than anything I know.
Wooden ones treat as such, metal treat as such. Remember by the smoke stack for the wood heater it needs to be rusted.

Rust and dark colors are my main colors.
Floquil Non water based paint ...... oh stick the sticker on before you weather
I like for the houses oil

I hope this made since cause my brain is on sleep mode it is 2:41 am

I learned a lot, even when not using an airbrush. The swipe downward with the finger after applying the paint creates great effect. A dry brush on a rivet head and then a slash down with a finger works as well, to my eyes. The washes and runs with verticle strokes gives that weathered but not worn out look.

I use PollyScale, Tamiya, ModelMaster, Liquitex, you name it. Washes are very versatile, but they need to be mixed for the material you're painting. Thinner for porous stuff (wood) and a little thicker for plastic, etc. The rule of thumb for starting is that the wash should be thin enough for you to see through it when you brush it. Brushes are usually used and give very good control, but various sponges can also be used for different effects like rust and irregular dust.

Sponges can also be used to smear washes for nice streaking looks.
The key to washes is just to play with them in as many ways as you can. Find an old car (I use New Bright cars I pick up for a buck at the flea market) and just have at it for testing.

For diesel exhaust I mix a few colors. I use Floquil with great results. Specifically I use about:

10 parts Engine Black
2 and a half parts Grimy Black
1 and a half parts Roof Brown
3 to 4 parts Thinner

You may have to tweak it a little to the dark side depending on how heavily you are weathering the subject. In that case add one more part Engine Black only. If you want it lighter add about 3 parts Grimy Black only.

Well it is 3:02 am.... this guy here is a Master with a air brush check him out to you will get the feel I hope http://4largescale.com/macs/M23.htm

Goodnite

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info.I've got a toytrain diesel loco that is just begging to be practiced on!
Troy

[Anonymous]

Great thread, guyss!

Nice tips on weathering. I notice many of the GR layouts the rolling stock looks "brand new" of course this could be recently purchased stuff and the owner hasn't had time to age it up...but what percentage of big train runners age their equipment?? Will we ever know that answer? Its obvious the trend is toward realism in these layouts but sometimes the aging is overlooked.

Tom M.

[Anonymous]

It is true that everyone has there thing.
Some want there cars/locos not touched.
While others like to skate on the edge and make it as real as anything. [bow]
Myself I reather by new looking plastic then weather it myself unless I know who weathered the plastic then I would buy it.

Now Capt. [4:-)] is doing a great job as I have been watching his progress.
To bad we can not just upload our photos. [2c]

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bluebonnet - 71

It is true that everyone has there thing.
Some want there cars/locos not touched.
While others like to skate on the edge and make it as real as anything. [bow]
Myself I reather by new looking plastic then weather it myself unless I know who weathered the plastic then I would buy it.

Now Capt. [4:-)] is doing a great job as I have been watching his progress.
To bad we can not just upload our photos. [2c]

Yes, I know a lot of LGBers that don;t weather their stuff, they like it shiny and toylike. But a aged LGB model really looks like its prototype (esp. the steam engines)
I guess there is still that "collector's value" philosophy with lots of GR users still cling to--the idea that a shiny new car outsells a aged one.

I can't really discount an aged model if its done right, ie., good light weathering paint job, so I would consider paying MORE for a weathered model in some cases. I have seen some LGB forney locos with lots of weathering and I wouldn't mind paying MORE for the "beaten up" forney.

Tom M.

[Anonymous]

I do my weathering on a very basic level.
First I paint, letter and detail the car (I haven't done a loco yet) then I spray it with a flat fini***o give the surface some "tooth" for the weathering to hang onto. Then I use a 2" bru***o apply some powdered brick mortar pigments with vertical strokes.
Last, I give the car a final coat of the flat fini***o seal it all in place.
Not counting drying time, the entire weathering process takes about ten minutes per car.

OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

LGB is a different story I would say.
When I see a LGB and like them "as they are" truthfuly.
But when they do show them in photos when weathered there great!