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Converting track plans

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  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Lancaster, PA
  • 84 posts
Converting track plans
Posted by airwolf crazy on Monday, January 11, 2010 1:03 PM

Greetings,

I am considering a garden railroad for out front yard.  I currently model HO for operations.  The G RR would be for family fun.

My wife and I have already decided that the whole thing should be elevated in a raised bed garden.  Also we think an "L" shape or possibly a triangle shape would work well for the area we would use.  I do not want to have just a loop (I have the Christmas tree train for that) but I do not need to have an operations layout either.  I would like something that will be basic but allow for a little operations just for fun.  To that end I have been looking for G scale track plans on line.  The ones I have found have been for much larger layouts or for VERY simple plans.  So, I then started thinking about the simple 4X8 layouts that HO beginers can build to get started.  I was wondering if any of these would scale up G scale without much trouble?

Christopher

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Mpls/St.Paul
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Posted by wjstix on Monday, January 11, 2010 1:42 PM

One problem I could see is most HO plans are for standard gauge, whereas most "large scale" layouts are narrow-gauge. That is, No.1 gauge track as used by LGB and others work out to 1:32 scale ratio if used as standard gauge, but most G-sized equipment is based on 1:20.3 scale representing 3' narrow gauge.

But anyway, sure you could do it. 1:20.3 works out to be 4.375 times bigger than HO if my math is correct (always an iffy proposal). So an HO 4' x 8' layout with 18" radius curves would work out to be about 17.5' x 35'; the 18"R curves would work out to a bit over 6' radius. (Broader 22"R HO curves would be about 8' radius.)

 

Stix
  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: North, San Diego Co., CA
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Posted by ttrigg on Monday, January 11, 2010 8:38 PM

Christopher:  “scaling up” an HO set of plans is very do-able. There is one major glitch in doing so!  Curves are the “limiting factor” in the garden.  Some equipment works just fine on 4 ft diameters (in the garden curves are measured in diameter not radius as in the smaller scales.)  LGB is about the only brand designed to handle the 4 ft dia curves, some of which will do fine mechanically but looks very wrong.  Other brands require larger curves.  I would suggest investigating the minimum diameter requirements for the type of equipment you plan on running.  As a general rule, make your curves as large as possible.  

Tom Trigg

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Lancaster, PA
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Posted by airwolf crazy on Tuesday, January 12, 2010 6:31 AM

Greetings,

Thank you for the information.  It looks like I still have more reading and research to do.  It may turn out that directly scaling up an HO track plan may not be the best option but I can, and will, still look through the basic starter HO plans for design ideas/ concepts.  I currently only have three books on G scale and one dealer contact, and of course this forum.

Thank you,
Christopher

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: North, San Diego Co., CA
  • 3,092 posts
Posted by ttrigg on Tuesday, January 12, 2010 11:15 AM

Christopher: 

Skip the starter plans. Out in the garden we all (well, most of us) start our plans with the largest available space.  It’s not as easy to rip G scale out of the ground as it is to rip smaller scales off the layout table.  Remember, you’ve got all the wiring buried (preferably in conduit), you’ve dug trenches to lay a sub roadbed, and built up the roadbed itself, you’ve probably built some sort of water feature using “real water”.  Do-Overs can be done, just much harder.

Start your planning by planning your maximum overall size.  Plan on 8 ft dia curves as a minimum (10~12 ft better).  My “empire” is built entirely of “flex track” so I was able to do non-standard curve sizes, 9 ft 4 in dia, the distance between the patio and the fence.

I do have a “branch line” (trolley route to the top of the falls) that breaks ALL the rules.  A 39 inch diameter 180 degree curve, a 29 inch dia “S” curve, all on a bridge with grades of 14%~17.5%.  None of my mainline equipment will handle the trip without falling into the pond.

Do your planning in segments. For me section 1 was getting in and around the pond. The Koi pond and track went in at same time. Switches were installed for sections 2&3&4. Section 2 was the run along the back fence. Section 3 was the yard.  Section 4 is the bridge to the falls.  Section 5 is the run from the current “end of line” along the fence to the other side of the yard and around the apple trees.

 

Have a look at what I’ve done, and some of the others.  Be sure to have a look at Ray Dunakin’s photos, find a post of his and he will have links to his website.

 

http://photobucket.com/rosebudfalls

 

Now “get outside and play in the dirt.”

 

Tom Trigg

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: N. California & Nevada
  • 448 posts
Posted by g. gage on Tuesday, January 12, 2010 7:58 PM

Howdy Christopher, there are many ways to go. When we moved into our new home built on a sloping property I started the railroad at the house where my rolling stock storage would be and built a line (using sectional track) meandering through our garden (also in progress) and went where imagination, grade (2.5% max.) and curvature (10’ – 20’ diameter) would take me. I ended up with a loop to loop configuration. We opened our railroad for the 2003 Sacramento National Convention. Running back and forth throwing return loop switches wore me out. On Patricia’s suggestion I closed the far end of the railroad with a new line back to the house resulting in one big 450’ loop. I installed a pet door to access the crawl space under the house. I like to walk along with my trains and use Aristo Train Engineer with track power.

 

I suggest pursuing the forum, see what others have done and visit some GR Societies. I also recommend Ray Dunakin’s site.

 

Have fun, Rob  

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Lancaster, PA
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Posted by airwolf crazy on Friday, January 15, 2010 6:33 AM

Greetings,

Thank you for the further information and link.

I was outside yesterday and while out I took a fast look at the area we are considering for the garden.  I think that if I do use 12' min. curves the overall design will have to be a loop.  I may have to go with the 8' or 10' curves.  More planning when it gets warmer out there.

Thanks,
Christopher

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Oakley Ca
  • 1,407 posts
Posted by dwbeckett on Friday, January 15, 2010 1:01 PM

airwolf crazy

I was outside yesterday and while out I took a fast look at the area we are considering for the garden.  I think that if I do use 12' min. curves the overall design will have to be a loop.  I may have to go with the 8' or 10' curves.  More planning when it gets warmer out there.

Thanks,
Christopher

A Loop is a good place to start, It get's train's running.  I started with a loop that didn't work after my wife tryed to rip her foot off a few years back. So I removed anything that mite cause her to trip.....

What  I have now is a folded dog-bone  with 2 passing sidings for a total of 270 ft stainless steel track. It takes time to get started and to find what YOU LIKE.  So have fun in the dirt, AND don't think it's perminet till last rail is laid.

Dave  

p.s. I'm not done yetSmile,Wink, & Grin

The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.

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