If you are using the aristo track, the screws they provide for the joints work well. Thats what I use but little by little I have been replacing the joints with aristo rail clamps. Especially since these clamps are much more affordable. The problem with soldering is when you have to take track up or do maint etc..... Its easier to use clamps or the aristo screws with the joiners. Plus like a few mentioned you melt the ties. For the price of a good solder gun your better off with the clamps.
Like John, I also use a Weller 80W soldering iron. You want something that delivers a lot of heat quickly. Don't try and use a soldering gun, it won't work. I've never used a heat sink to keep from melting ties (I'm not saying to not use one) and haven't had any trouble. But I make sure the track is shinny clean (I use my Dremmel with a wire brush to clean the location) and I use extra electrical flux (not flux for plumbing). If I can't solder the joint in less than about 15 seconds I stop and figure out what's wrong.
Bob in Kalamazoo
Byron
It's very simple. Wrap an elastic band (fairly thick) around the handles of the pliers to keep them normally closed. As you say, this draws the heat fro the plastic sleepers but allows the joint to be made.
Once again, I emphasise a HOT, and reasonably substantial iron. Mine is a` Weller 80W and working with Tenmille brass track works very well, especially with a new bit.
I have hundreds of feet of track and have just lifted and relaid the trackbed for a modified route and will shortly be soldering about 30 to 40 yards. Not the best time (early winter), but the rest of the work was put back by the awful summer weather (rather more rain than usual). It should still be running well before the end of the year given a few dry spells (or maybe even days!!)
Normally I do a few joints only at a time as sometimes waiting for solder to run on joints is tedious, so I do several other jobs at the same time. Obviously I don't know what your weather is like, but give it a go if you get a chance and you can make your own mind up.
Good luck with it.
John
John,
Are those bent nosed "Vise Grip" type pliers ? I would guess the clamping on would be to dissipate the heat before the ties while soldering, seems you'd need something that would clamp on tight to the rails to accomplish that.......Right......
Hi
I solder all my joints, having tried most other methods, all of which let me down eventually.
As I use track with plastic ties (sleepers in this country!!) I am well aware of the danger of melting these. Bent nose pliers attached to either side of the joint solve the problem for me.
A hot iron and clean rails make a quick and simple job (not always easy outside). I would never advise using plumbing solder or flux as it would contain acid. Multicore electrical solder is designed for joining electrical cable, which is effectively what we are doing with track-powered railways, and in 20+ years I have never had a failure in a properly made joint.
Hope this is of some help.
John M
I just use track clamps. Clean the rail/clamps good, then put a bit of di-electric silicon compound on the clamp or joiner. This insures a good connection. I only have one track feeder line hooking up to the 135' loop that I have. A friend has 700' loops with one connection to the transformer. For me, soldering is not necessary.
Jerry
web site:
http://thescrr.com/
thanks, this is what i had thought but was not aware of alingment issues
Hi I found that it was not a good idea to solder joints to many ties damaged, I link my joints by easing a thin wire under the fish plates so far 5 years+ I have not had a break in power on my layout. Plus if you wish to alter the layout you do not have to desolder, Ive changed my lay out two or three times and had no problems. My layout is 5 hundred feet plus. Hope this helps
Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life
I use a “mini-torch” to solder rails before putting on the ties. I mostly use “flex” rails (brass in 5 – 8 – or 10ft lengths) and join two rails into a longer section using a straight jig. These” longer” sections are joined with rail clamps. Since my method uses flame and you are joining stuff “already in the dirt” you will have severe problems with melted ties. Some of the other guys use electric solder guns and place wet rags on the ties to prevent melting. The main thing you will need to accomplish no mater the method is cleaning the rails. Dremel tool with small wire brush will do the job. I would suggest using new “slip-on” rail joiners as old ones are hard to clean. I use standard plumbing flux and solder available at your local plumbing shop, (Home Depot, Lowe’s etc.) With a clean joiner and clean rail ends, put flux inside the joiner, slip in the rails, apply heat to one side, apply solder from the other side. To ensure a straight joint I use a “straight solder jig”, a 2x4 with a slot down the side just large enough to hold the rail, and a notch cut out for the flame to heat the joint. You will need to find some method of holding the rails in the correct position. If there is any kink in the joint you can expect derailments there.
Tom Trigg
does anyone have experince solder the tracks together? any advice on how to/ what to solder with and type of solder to use? I have about 100 ft of track with split clamp on some and standard arusta craft connections and screwer together, but still loose conections in place, think of soldering but need advice.
thanks
Bmnntx
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