Scratch-building windows that work

[SoCalJimH]

Sounds like it should be submitted to GR as a 'how-to" article!!

[kstrong]

Next, you're going to tell us you've got working latches, right? More work than I want to do, but you can't argue with the results. Looks great!

Later,

K

[ttrigg]

Dave:

I'm so enthralled with working windows that I would never have thought to ask about "tilt to clean". Now that you mentioned it . . . . . . . . . . .

Ray:

I love the simplicity of your design. It looks like it will add an element of "depth" to the installed window. Unlike certain OTHER people here, I'll not be sarcastic but just say: Another job well done!

[dwbeckett]

They look like you used a 1:1 vinal window as your guide, Nice to see working windows. I'm sure Tom or Vic will ask why don't they tilt out for cleaning LOL.

Dave

[jhsimpson62]

Ray. Great looking windows. Thanks for sharing. Jack

[Ray Dunakin]

I'm currently in the middle of building a new structure for the town of Dos Manos, on my In-ko-pah Railroad. For this structure I decided to try making the windows so that they can actually slide open and closed. .... . . . . . Here's how I made my windows. You could glue both sashes in place if you don't want to have working windows: . . . . I start by gluing together two pieces of .060" channel, side by side. There will be two of these for each window frame: . . . .. . . . . . . . I made the sashes from .020" x .080" strips. These are actually a little two thin; if I would doing it over I'd use strips that are .030" thick: . . . . . . . . . . . . . Next I glue the top sash between the two sets of channels: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Then I add the side jams. These are made from strips of .040" x .188" styrene. I glue them to the channels, one side at a time. IMPORTANT: Make sure that the top sash is in the forward channel, as shown: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Next comes the sill, which is also .040" x .188": . . . . . . . . . . . . . The top piece, called the "head jam", is .040" x .125". It should be positioned along the front edge, leaving a gap at the rear of the window so that the sliding lower sash can be slid into the channel: . . . . . . . . . . . The frame is now ready to add the trim: . . . . . . . . . . I used .040" x .125" strips for the trim on the top and sides. The bottom piece is .040" x .250". The trim should be glued parallel to the front edge of the jams. Next I extended the sill, using a piece of .040" x .080". At the top I added a piece of .040" square strip: . . . . . . . . . . . In this photo you can see how the lower sash slides into the channel behind the top sash: . . . . . . . . . The "glass" will be glued to the rear of each sash after the frames have been painted.