I used Soda cans for this.
Then some spray bombs !
tblack007 I'm kitbashing a few of structures and I want to give them metal roofing. I've seen a few corrugated aluminum products out there and I'm going to use it on a couple of the structures. However, I'm looking to create some variety and I'm wondering if anyone can recommend alternative metals and methods? I'm not against styrene sheets, I just prefer not to use it. Thanks in advance for any and all advice. I'm starting to get the hang of kitbashing. What a blast!
I'm kitbashing a few of structures and I want to give them metal roofing. I've seen a few corrugated aluminum products out there and I'm going to use it on a couple of the structures. However, I'm looking to create some variety and I'm wondering if anyone can recommend alternative metals and methods? I'm not against styrene sheets, I just prefer not to use it.
Thanks in advance for any and all advice. I'm starting to get the hang of kitbashing. What a blast!
Well, here's a different thought... Here in the SE United States, metal roofing was quite common and (to me) nothing looks more like rusted tin than rusted tin. I acquired a piece of rusted roofing from a collapsed peach-packing shed in North Carolina, selecting one that was not terribly bent. I was able to cut this with a tin snips and then filed the cut edges to remove any sharp burrs. I have provided the roofing for my engine house and a track maintenance shed by this method. Although this is certainly thicker than a soda can, I don't have to do any painting or additional weathering. I attach the metal to the wood frame of the roof by "liquid nails" or similar adhesive. Black silicone is used to affix any smokestacks. Both of these structures have removable roofs. I have not had any visitor say "that roofing is too thick". Here's the maintenance shed:
Bill
Nice looking crimper you have there. I'll probably anneal ( bake ) everything I put through mine. I may put a height adjustment my top roller, not sure yet. The gear stock for mine will likely be here next week sometime. I'll be working on the frame in the mean time.
Not getting out to the shop near as much as I'd like. Can't afford to heat both the house and the shop. For some strange reason the wife wants the house warm first. LOL
Brian,
The way their making the cans they are harder then the old ones but thin enough for, say the Fiskars crimper, to crimp.
I have crimped some thin tin stock with my home made tool.
Gary,
Flashing is pretty hard and I have not been able to run it through my tool. To hard of material will spring the rollers and put extra strain on the bushings.
If the roller is set up right you can at times run up to 2 feet through before the metal starts to run off to one side or the other,
You have to keep the metal as close to center of the roller to make long runs.
Another thing in making long pieces is keeping an even speed when you crank a piece through. I stand facing the crank Handel to crank evenly. When you crank otherwise you have a jerking motion when passing center almost like a piston.
My rollers are 7-7/8" and they bend when running heavy or hard meta metal through it.
Cutting down the roller working length may keep the rollers from bowing in their center.
Click for Plan of my crimper
Yogi Wallace,
Bellaire, Ohio
Yogi has a home made heavy duty crimper on his page. I doubt you will be able to crimp aluminum flashing. Its just too thick for that purpose. Yogi gets rolls of thinner stuff (thicker than soda cans though) that works great.
-Brian
Hmmm, warehouses, grain elevators, ect. That is a lot of "pop cans". Using the paper crimper is going to be hard on the fingers. Sooooo.....I'm making the steel version of the paper crimper. Should be able to crank a roll of roof flashing through it in a matter of minutes. Of course I'll post a pic of it when done. Was never one to do anything half way.
Since nobody else did..... Putting the the soda/beer can metal in the oven draws the temper and makes it a lot softer. It will turn brown with a bit of purple shading. Sorta looks weathered. Lot easier on the crimper to.
I notice the crimper is available in the narrow and wide sizes, at several popular stores.
GaryR
I've been using gutter flashing as metal roofs for about six months. It's about four inches on a side, some is six. Some has one side longer than the other, in case you'd like to have a lean to or bump out on one side of your building.
It's galvanized, and takes paint very easily. I've made three trolley stop roofs with it, and some small motel buildings, too.
If you'd like a picture or two of these buildings, drop me a line. Showing them here seems very complicated!
Some of your local, smaller newspapers still sell their aluminum printing plates for under a buck a sheet, they should work fine. We were on vacation and I picked up the local paper and saw they had the sheets for sale, I went down and got a dozen. Ink washes off with soap and water, one side is unused. Might look around. I plan to use a sheet on making a car, once I get around to it. Sheets are about 20x30".
Jerry
web site:
http://thescrr.com/
Gentlemen once again I thank you for the info and the quick replies to my queries.
Alan.
http://www.ksmetals.com/
KS Engineering makes a roll product called "Soft Aluminum" which is FAR easier to run through a paper crimper than soda cans.
Have fun with your trains
Alan: I use "open beam construction". I run 3/8" square beams where the seams of the metal roofing will joint. I use the Marine grade Loctite adhesive; it works very well for wood, metal, plastic glazing, rubbers and vinyl's. I rarely use any substrate under my roofing material, course, I'm cheap that way.
Tom Trigg
I usually use 1/4" thick hardibacker tile board for most of my buildings. It has held up well over the years though years of ground contact may cause it to delaminate (not an issue for roofs). I have used it as a substrate for plastic veneers sheets (asphalt and tile roofs), tread tape (for rolled roofing) and aluminum as pictured on the station above.
The hardibacker was spray painted with a couple of coats prior to the roof finish.
Loctite PowerGrab was used to glue on plastic veneers Urethane construction adhesive (liquid nails) or silicone was used for aluminum.
If you decide to go wood shingles I would invest in cedar ones available from several sources (Smith Pond Junction, Garden Texture, etc.). I use Phenoseal Vinyl Adhesive Caulk (found in the caulk aisle) translucent for cedar shingles. Works great and holds up well outdoors.
Other possible roof substrates you can use are coroplast (corrugated plastic board) or 1/4" plexiglass.
Friends.... have just come across this article and am interested in replacing the roof of an hotel I made last year. Due to the inclement weather we get here in the NE of England the roof, made of scale shingles cut from lollypop sticks, has lifted. (This is in the summer)Three coats of Thomson waterproof sealer and silicone failed to hold it together.Having read the article I need to know if:- (a) a plywood base was used to fasten the metal sheets to and (b) what type of adhesive was used or other fastenings.
I second that motion. (hic) I prefer the thinner Bud Lite can as they are easier to cut after consumption. Caution, must use wire mesh gloves, bud lite cans cut deeper and longer.
ttrigg altterrain but I prefer Guinness cans as the aluminum is a bit thicker – Are you sure you like the thicker can or the thicker content?
altterrain but I prefer Guinness cans as the aluminum is a bit thicker –
Are you sure you like the thicker can or the thicker content?
Its a good excuse anyway!
Yogi has some goot tips on various methods - http://users.stratuswave.net/~wd8jik/
As Tom said the corrugated aluminum works well but I prefer Guinness cans as the aluminum is a bit thicker -
or a custom roof on my station -
Tom,
This is great info. I'll get to work trying these and see which one works best for me.
Thanks,
TB:
Some possible ideas:
Materials: Collect a few soda cans to slice into sheets. Stop by your local building supply store (Home Depot/Lowe's) pick up a roll of copper roof flashing. Thinnest possible.
Corrugated roofing: go to Michael's and in the paper craft section, get a rolling paper crimper, makes very good corrugated roof.
Standing Seam roof: If you have LOTS of TIME and have a metal brake (a good vise and metal shears will do) you can make a "standing seam" roof. Standing seam construction with vise: cut material into strips 1 ¼ wide: right side, in vise make a 90 degree 1/8th inch fold, then complete the fold onto itself, then make the 90 degree fold along the edge of the first fold. On the left side a simple 90-degree fold will finish the job. Now when you glue it up and crimp the standing seam, you've got a good looking roof. This can be done as a single piece as opposed to strips. Every one inch make the folds to have the ridge sticking up about 1/8 inch.
Flat metal roof: Cut the material into rectangles about one inch by four inches (2'x8' at 1:24). Glue into position, and apply extremely small drops or lines of asphalt tar to simulate roof glue.
Cutting the metal: A good pair of metal shears - good. A good solid paper cutter - better.
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