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Electricity for the layout

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  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: Whitmore Lake, Michigan
  • 350 posts
Posted by markperr on Monday, August 31, 2009 9:53 PM

Without trying to come across sounding like a know-it-all, reading your post tells me that you're sort of a newbie to wiring.  There is no such thing, to my knowledge, of a forty amp outlet at 110V.  If, by chance you are running a 220V outdoor circuit @40 amps, then you'll still have to drop it down to 110V for the outlet.  There is very little power loss in 110V over 150ft, but it's important to protect your wiring if it's above ground or to use the proper insulation and buried to the proper minimum depth (Last I knew, the NEC said 18") if below grade.  If you aren't sure of these various factors, hire an electrician or find a buddy whom youe absolutely trust knows what he's doing to wire it.  

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Slower Lower Delaware
  • 1,266 posts
Posted by Capt Bob Johnson on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 7:26 PM

For safety sake, and to make sure you meet code and don't void your household insurance, I'd have a licensed electrician do the 110V AC work!   Yes, it will cost; but not as much as a mistake!    Maybe you can work a deal with one where you dig the ditches and he comes in with the conduit and wiring at a reduced price!

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Oakley Ca
  • 1,407 posts
Posted by dwbeckett on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 5:03 PM

NO MATTER WHAT always use GFI brakers or GFI outlets when adding 110 outside they are available in 15 & 20 amp vershions THEY ARE LIFESAVERS.

Dave,,,,, been bit more then once

The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.

  • Member since
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  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 11:41 AM

For fire safety reasons, I would break the wiring of the pump and layout into two separarte cable runs with separate 20 Amp breakers in the main box.

Having both on one 40 Amp breaker could invite trouble of burning out your controller if you develop a short circuit in your track because of a derailment or something metal bridging across the rails somewhere, and the controller not having an adequate overload protection circuit.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Shire Counties UK
  • 712 posts
Posted by two tone on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 10:49 AM

Hi Digger,      1  Pump, When you buy pump it should tell you what thickness of cable required.  2 Make sure an RCD is fitted.   3 What are you running G gauge large locos pulling 12+ coaches/wagann?  and what sort of controller?  I use the Train Engineer and a 10amp power supply.  Again ask at your local electric store for advice then if things go wrong you have a come back. 4 You may be drawing 5amps+ to power track you use more when lighting coaches, So one of my train layout books recomends house lighting cable NOT cooker cable. Just rember the longer the cable to track the more voltage drop you will get   A ten metre run of 1amp cable can loose 2 volts.

 Hope this helps

                Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • 11 posts
Electricity for the layout
Posted by diggerdooley on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 6:17 AM

I am about ready to wire up my layout, but am unsure about how much power I need.  I am installing a pond and waterfall, and will need to wire in a pump.  And of course, I will need power for the train itself.  I don't know what gauge of wire to run ( underground),  but I am thinking about 40 amps through a length of about 150 ft.  Any hints about if I'm right, and what I need to do?

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