September Planting

[dwbeckett]

Nan, Thanks for the update, sounds like short ROAD TRIP for me......

Dave

[nan]

Dave, You could take the back road east of Mt. Diablo to get to Tassajara Nursery in San Ramon, or is it Danville? They have a great selection of plants I've used for railways, like dwarf conifers, dwarf boxwoods, and nice groundcover. They also have bonsai starters, 2-inch potted young plants that are relatively inexpensive and grown for bonsai enthusiasts. You could also get sprawling creepers like prostrate rosemary and juniper and let them cover the ground. Just plant them away from the track. Have fun!

[dwbeckett]

Tom And Nan, Thanks for inputs. Nan I dont go to events held by Joan so we may have met at the store.  I have asked both my local nurserys about smaller trees and get "we can order it " or get that deer in the headlights look. almost the same responce from HD I have 2 near me, Soit looks like Loews is next.

 

Thanks

Dave  

[ttrigg]

Dave:

I would like to add a couple of comments to what "Nan" said. I live in the San Diego area, dryer and hotter than you. I use a liquid root stimulant BEFORE planting. I put a cap full into a gallon of water. Put the plants still in their plastic container into an assortment of old plastic bowls, ice cream tubs and the like. Fill the container so that the liquid just covers the top of the plant pot. Let the potted plant stay in the stimulant for about 20 minutes, I do this three times a day for 2~3 days before planting. Also add the granular starter fertilizer when planting. Before I started doing things this way I was killing 9 out of 10 plantings, now the only ones I kill are the few that I do not ensure getting enough water from the sprinklers. Current loss rate is about 1 in 20. Check your local nurseries, for miniature plants. I get most of my ground cover stuff from Home Depot and Lowes, My "trees" are from Armstrong nursery and Anderson's nursery. Very rarely will they carry something that will not survive in the immediate area. I shy away from mail order plants because I like to hold it in my hand before paying for it.

[nan]

Hello Dave, Perhaps we have met at a Just Trains event. I've been a railroad gardener in the Bay area since 1997. Sounds like you're ready to do some planting but don't feel too confident. May I suggest you start getting your grade filled to the track level and when you want to plant, wait until the end of September so you won't have to water so much. Fall planting is a great time to start a railway garden because you will get your plants growing when it is cooling down. Of course you'll need to water them frequently when they have small root systems. During the winter the roots will still grow and continue to get established during early spring when we have lots of rain. If we don't get rain (we've had some dry winters), you'll need to water the new starts. By the time the hot drying summer rolls around, your plants will have established a good root system. Then your watering will need to be less frequent, but regular, judging by what you see when you dig down 6 or so inches. Soil should never be bone dry, but look like the consistency of chocolate cake between irrigation. Mixing a little "starter fertilizer" into the soil will help establish strong roots. Read the bag for amounts. Dave, we live in USDA Hardiness Zone 9, which means that air temperatures go to a certain range in the winter and Zone 9 plants will be be okay. When you go to an online nursery, they will usually state which Zone the plant is good for. If it says it's a zone 6-8 plant you could take a chance on it but give it a little afternoon shade in summer. If it says it's a Zone 10 plant, it will probably die from frost in winter, unless you take measures to protect it. Not always, but usually, your local nursery will only stock plants which will thrive (given good conditions) in their neighborhood. Then you need to know if your area is in sun or shade. Under the Fruitless Mulberry your plants will get almost no light in the summer but lots of light in winter. Certain woodland plants like that, but you'll have to keep the big leaves from smothering the little scale plants. Nurseries will have a shade cloth covering the plants you could look for to find shade plants. Ask the nursery people any questions you have. Info goes a long way when it comes to learning what it takes to not kill a plant, but experience is the best teacher. Just jump in. Nature will forgive and give you another chance. Best of luck and have fun!

[Capt Bob Johnson]

Don't plant anything, just let whatever grows grow, it will be very hardy and drought resistant.   Besides, when it gets too big you can take a weed whacker to it without any guilt feelings about I paid $$$ for this plant and I hate to cut it for fear I may kill it!

[dwbeckett]

I live in N.Califoria 70 miles NE of San Francisco, I am finaly getting to point of Planting. I think i will be ready to Kill I mean start planting. Now is the time to backfill all of my raised areas since we have had our normal dry summer with no rain expected till Nov. I will be using Sandy Loam as my base $32 a yard. I don't think I will need more then 2-2 1/2 yards and I can get it 1/2 yd at a time.  So my question is what and when do I plant in my area. and the who is the best sourse? BTW I have added capped drip lines to most areas that i plan to use, and my yard is shaded to part shade with a 15 year old frutless malberry in the middel that DROPS leaves big enouf to derail engins. 

Dave