Trains.com

Basic Garden Wiring

3159 views
8 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Omaha Ne
  • 37 posts
Posted by Don H on Saturday, August 8, 2009 12:38 PM

Jim,

 I started back when all you had was LGB 1600 curves and Aristo three foot straights. (26 years ago)

I used Malibu low voltage wire and a good conductive grease in the joints. Had about 100 foot of track down with four wire taps soldered to the rail joiners. Ran like that for 18 years with no problems.

Track was mounted on 2x6 ceder

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: North, San Diego Co., CA
  • 3,092 posts
Posted by ttrigg on Monday, July 27, 2009 11:16 PM

Door County RR
but what type of clamp system does everyone use to keep the conductivity of the track going?

I use Split Jaw clamps. Took one with me to Home Depot, picked up a large bag of "electrical eye" connectors that just fit the screws on the clamp. (SJ sells a "power clamp" that has a single screw and an "eye" connector.) Soldered the "eye" connector to the feeder wires, put it on one of the screws on the clamp. For isolated track sections, I just take the "eye" connector and put it onto the "controlled end" of the insulated side of the isolated connector.

Tom Trigg

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Slower Lower Delaware
  • 1,266 posts
Posted by Capt Bob Johnson on Monday, July 27, 2009 2:58 PM

I use Aristo SS track, and started out using the provided fasteners; then I had to cut some track to fit where I wanted to go.   That caused me to discover Split Jaw Clamps!   Over the years, I have converted to using the SJ clamps exclusively; I don't even fish the screws out of the wax on the bottom of the track anymore!    I don't use conductive grease, to my mind the grease would defeat the mechanical clamping feature that holds the track in alignment and together.    I'd not go without the SJ clamps!

Our club uses some Aristo clamps for setting up displays as they are usually only up 1-3 days then dismantle.   It is easier for the old folk to handle the clamps with the screws on top rather than the allen screws on the side. 

  • Member since
    July 2009
  • 3 posts
Posted by Door County RR on Monday, July 27, 2009 11:07 AM

Hi Dave, good luck on hitting 75mph.

I noticed several answers about wiring.......but what type of clamp system does everyone use to keep the conductivity of the track going? Soldering? (type wire, solder?) Clamps?

Thanks,

Jim

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Oakley Ca
  • 1,407 posts
Posted by dwbeckett on Monday, July 27, 2009 10:52 AM

What is working for me is 12 to 14 gauge wire for the main feed with 18ga jumper wire to the bottem of the track about 10-14 foot apart. with wirenuts I also have 3-5 pair of younger eyes with i-phone timers in hand to check my speed. I'm still trying to hit 75 mph with my 10 unit test train. Currently at 71.96mph

Dave

The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Slower Lower Delaware
  • 1,266 posts
Posted by Capt Bob Johnson on Friday, July 24, 2009 7:07 PM

One mistake I made was in doing some of my feeder wires in a daisy chain arrangement rather than making a home run of each one!   If I were doing it again, I'd have a buss bar and run each feeder back to the buss bar and have the power pack feed the buss bar!

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: North Coastal San Diego
  • 947 posts
Posted by Greg Elmassian on Friday, July 24, 2009 5:11 PM

 This might not be an economically feasible suggestion for you, but I ran conduit for my wires, and thus used less expensive wire, with the thin insulation, rather than the "landscape wire"...

I think the total cost of my conduit and the less expensive wire  (10 gauge) was about the same  as buying the 10 gauge landscape wire. I'm happy I did it this way.

Regards, Greg

Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.

 Click here for Greg's web site

 

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: North, San Diego Co., CA
  • 3,092 posts
Posted by ttrigg on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 11:50 PM

DoorCountry

Solder up every other joint, then use rail clamps. That will improve power flow and cut clamp cost. Run a "main" power wire in your roadbed, bring feeder wires from the "main" to the rails every 100~150 foot. Closer feeder lines will give you a "fail proof" feeling of confidence. Remember, if you install feeder wires every 100 foot then your engine will never be more than 50 foot from a feeder line.

Tom Trigg

  • Member since
    July 2009
  • 3 posts
Basic Garden Wiring
Posted by Door County RR on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 7:49 PM

I'm setting up a single loop that will probably be 150' running thru a forest setting. I am using LGB track. 2' track for the long runs. I have see connectors for the tracks but they run $1.00 each (needing 2 for each connection) AND they state their good for only 100' . I have a ten amp transrormer so power should be sufficient. How does anyone solidly keep the tracks together (besides using grading gravel...I use large and fine chicken grit) Soldering?

Also....wiring...I have seen people say to use 16 guage light wire.crimping and soldering ring terminals to the track for conductivity. Do you have to have separate wires from each location run to that specific location? ie thinking a circle, will I need to run wiring underground (or under the ballast) to 0 degrees, 90 degrees, 180 degrees and 360 degrees being the main power pack.

Thanks  Bow

Jim

Search the Community

FREE EMAIL NEWSLETTER

Get the Garden Railways newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month

By signing up you may also receive occasional reader surveys and special offers from Garden Railways magazine. Please view our privacy policy