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Plastic Glue's

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  • Member since
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  • From: Oakley Ca
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Plastic Glue's
Posted by dwbeckett on Tuesday, July 14, 2009 12:19 PM

What glue do you useand for what..

I have a Pola Outhouse that I used gray Oatey ( Medium ) PVC glue - It was previously glued with the cement provied by Pola, I did not clean off the old stuff just added Oatey to one side of each joint. It took about 5 min to rebuild the out house. now it's ready to tip...

Next is an Old KORBER station that has never been assembiled. I applied the glue to side only of the ticket window sections then added the building sides. All seemed to holding then fell apart. Soo I reglued all the sections with glue on both serfaces. Note I did allow the Outhouse to dry about 30 Min's before handling.  

Since it's been 45 min since I reaaembiled the station I checked I think it may stay togther this time.

Maybe it just two types of Plastic, one easyer to glue

 

Comments Please, I'm ready to start building  

Dave

The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.

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Posted by ttrigg on Tuesday, July 14, 2009 9:43 PM

Dave:

Even though there is an "old wives tale" out there that Super Glue (CA, cyanoacrylic acid) is not water proof, it is the only glue I use on outdoor plastic. On top of that I use the CHEAP STUFF. The 4 tube pack for $1.00 at Wal-Mart! I put it on both sides of the joint. Apply pressure for about 15~20 seconds, and watch as the "melted" plastic begins to ooze from the joint. Chateau de Vic has been sitting atop the falls now for about 4 years, and on occasion I've seen one of the dogs sitting on the roof. (4.5 pound Papillon).

Of course I usually affix myself to the project at least 5~15 times, which is why I keep a bottle of nail polish remover handy. A sharp knife removes the "melted" plastic ooze from the corners once it has set up about quarter an hour, after 2~3 hours it gets a bit difficult. I assemble the shell (outside walls minus window frames, doors etc) then I apply my color coats. I've not seen any of the plastics that hold their color for any length of time. I start with a base (primer coat) of Krylon Fusion (flat black or grey), and then use whatever color I am after (Krylon, Kilz, Rust-O-Leum). Another hint for "positive adhesion" is to wash the plastic parts in a strong household cleaner such as Mr. Clean. They do not remove the "mold releasing agent" before the structure leaves the assembly line. The wash also helps the paint to stick.

Tom Trigg

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  • From: Oakley Ca
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Posted by dwbeckett on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 10:01 AM

Tom, I have tried super glue with poor results. an update on the small station I built yesterday === The joints have finaly set after 22 hours although I think they are still a littel spongge. A Plumber frend said to always use the primer first for a fast setting joint. Having used the primer on scheduel 40 pipe and being able to  prime all the joints first I am going to try it for adding the roof and small porch.      more on this latter

The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.

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  • From: silver spring, md
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Posted by altterrain on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 2:32 PM

 I like to use a solvent plastic welding type adhesive like Ambroid ProWeld or Plastruct Bondene or PlasticWeld (one sets faster that the other). I then reinforce the main joints (walls and roof) with a bead of silicone, liquid nails or dabs of 5 minute epoxy. I have use this combo on many Piko, Pola and Colorado Model (those joints aren't so tight) kits with good success.

For building repairs ( I repaired a lot for one client) I like to use GOOP or silicone if a lot is needed.

The outdoor worthiness of CA may have a lot to do with climate. I haven't had much luck with it but we on the East Coast got as much rain in 3 months this past spring as San Diego gets in two years!

-Brian

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Posted by ttrigg on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 6:52 PM

Look both to the left and behind the château, The water out fall box was assembled with a "modified" CA. (I believe it was designed specifically for that plastic.) The pump has been pushing 2,000 gallons an hour, 18 hours a day, for 5 years.

I stay away from the "Locktite" brand of super glue. The owners of the original brand name "Super Glue". I've tried all eight types that are available in my area, and they all fall apart while sitting on the workbench. The cheap stuff, no name brand, from Wal-Mart and Michael's has a high content of "acid" that causes the plastic to "melt" and ooze out of the joint. This stuff bonds by fusing the two plastic pieces together as opposed to gluing them together.

Brian: I'm not trying to start an argument here. But I've had most excellent experience with the cheap CA and very lousy experience with the name brand stuff.

Tom Trigg

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Posted by altterrain on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 8:52 PM

ttrigg

Brian: I'm not trying to start an argument here. But I've had most excellent experience with the cheap CA and very lousy experience with the name brand stuff.

 

 What's wrong with a little argument?

 

 

-Brian  Wink

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Posted by Russell Miller on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 11:36 PM
Use IPS Weld-On #16 to glue up the POLA and PIKO structures. It is a thickened acrylic solvent cement. The solvents in it melt the plastic so that you end up with a permanent chemical bond and the thicker body of the cement allows it to fill any small gaps that might be present. I've used it to glue up a water tank 6 years ago that is as strong today as the day it was assembled. If you can't find a Krylon Spray paint in the color you want, use a good quality house paint over a Krylon primer. The house paint will hold up for years. Russ miller
Russ Miller TAP Plastics, Inc. Bay Area Garden Railway Society

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