can i build my railroad waist high on 4by 4's

[jmozz]

OLD DAD thanks jmozz

[Anonymous]

Hi John,
The "feet" I am talking about are 2x6 green treated boards cut to six inches long and screwed to the bottom of each riser. If your ground is firm the feet could be even smaller. Drainage gravel needs to be placed only under the feet not under the entire roadbed.

If you build earth up to your roadbed or build cement land forms as I do or just use plants to fill in under your roadbed the feet and risers will be hidden.

If you send me an e-mail I will send you photos and a drawing of what I'm talking about.

OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

Hi Old Dad
I visualise something like indoor bench work with big feet resting on a gravel bed
is this correct
regards John

[Anonymous]

None of my risers are IN the ground and do "float" on the surface.
Frost depth in our part of Minnesota is 42" and to provide space for gravel in the bottom of the hole I would need to dig down a full 4 feet. This would be a LOT of WORK.

I reasond that if track at ground level could "float" in a bed of gravel that same track could "float" on risers that were sitting on a bed of gravel. IT WORKS!!!

Not only does the elevated track "float" so do our cement mountains. I have found that setting posts below frost level is a lot of unnecessary work and will not do so ever again; unless i'm building a fence or pole barn.

I have also found that 4x4s are over kill and use 2x4s or 2x6s for my risers.

Placing "feet" on the bottom of each riser will prevent your risers from sinking into the ground much like snow shoes prevent a person from sinking into the snow.

If your risers are quite high some lateral bracing may be needed in a few places.

OLD DAD

[grandpopswalt]

To all who have joined this thread:

If all the risers are lightly attached to the ground (floating) the whole system should rise and fall equally with the frost heaves and there should be very little distortion of the track.
Any comments on this concept?

Grandpopswalt

[RhB_HJ]

jmozz,

Part of my railway is elevated. Rather than using concrete or whatever to set the 4x4s I use "post spikes".
Plenty long enough, so far (fingers crossed) no frost heave, quick and easy to put in and the can be removed and reused if required.

I'll take a picture of what that looks like, but it won't happen this weekend. It is raining here in a serious way. Hurray!!
We really need the rain, besides I'll be working all weekend anyway.[:)][:I][:)]

[Anonymous]

Go to the FYI thread and look for "Spline Roadbed". This is an elevated system that is very flexable and forms graceful curves and transitions. I have used this on my layout and have track as high as 40" off the ground.

OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

John
My track goes from ground level to 22 inchs high , here at 22 inchs high i can put my engines and cars on , while sitting on a bench, i also have back problems. ben ---pa.[tup][:D]

[Anonymous]

Jmozz, another thought, If you don't want it as permenent, use crushed rock with dust around poles, Just plumb your poles pour the crushed rock in, They call it 46d hear in Ohio, It will have the crusher fine/track ballast effect. You can also leve the poles long and cut them at what ever grade or level them afterwards. Then you can attach the "L" girders.

Jmozz, sorry fro the incomplete post last night, Had to repair ther wife's car.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jmozz

i have a bad back and i want to build my railroad on 4by 4's and L girders

[Anonymous]

Jmozz, Not knowing where you're located, but keep in mind to set your post below the frost line. Here in Ohio it's 34 inches to 36 inches is where the bottom of the hole needs to be. This will keep winter frost heves nonexistant. Make sure to put gavel in the bottom of the hole to keep the water from "wicking" up into the wood. Also I have read that treated wood has some sort of chemical reaction to concrete but only when its wet. I pre-treated my pole barn poles with driveway sealer prior to pouring the concrete. Hope this is helpful.

[Anonymous]

Hi,
No reason why not. Lots of Brit garden railways have been in the garden for years on posts. Make sure the base of the posts aren't in water all the time and give them a good soak with preservative. Depending on your weather brick piers on concrete plinths may work better for frost heave etc but wood is better for levelling. Have fun.
Cheers,
Kim
[tup]

[vsmith]

I dont see why not. As long as you use pressure treated wood and set the posts first, then the stringers and then a top runner to attach the track, Sure.

What your suggesting is the same thing that live steamers do so they are not stooping down over the engines.

LIVE STEAMERS out there, help give Jmozz some more details on how to do this easily

[jmozz]

i have a bad back and i want to build my railroad on 4by 4's and L girders