I have 4 a's and 3 b's my problem is with the frount coupler. In the past I have used modified working USAT couplers on short trains . Now that I am able to 9-11 car passenger trains the couplers seperate from the load. It is always the F3A, what would be the easest convershion??? I would prefer to use Keedee's What has worked for you
Thanks
Dave, CEO D&N RR
Nanc, CFO D&N RR
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
Howdy Dave; I’m not sure what is causing the problem. I use Kadee couplers on everything including my F3A and B units. The Kadee 831 coupler fits right on the F3A coupler mounting; Kadee couplers are also compatible with USAT couplers.
I was using 1831's and I think they are too small ,also checking one of the area's i can see a hump in the track that is only noticable from 20 ft away with a string of passenger cars sitting on both sides . I need to buy some larger couplers and forget about the closer to scale look of the 1800 series.
Dave
Thanks Rob, When I was finnishing moving to a larger storage unit this morning I spoted a lonly log bunk with a pair of 831's mounted SOOOOOOOOOOOO I stuck it in my pocket. Mounted one on the front of one of the F3A's now my problem has gone ........
Thank You, Thank You, Thank You
I switched to Aristos.
JimC.
Rob & Jim C., Thanks for your inputs I am using 1- KD-831 ( G scale) on the last F3A and had already switched to aristo's on the B-unit and B-end of both A's. I also retro fited all of the passenger cars to Aristocraft. Since then I have not had cloupler related problem. Note : since I had closed the gap on my Passenger cars the swap back was easer then I though it would be---- Just rermove the KD and install the aristo. I did gain about 1/4 inch in the separation,but the still look better then they did.
Dave and Jim; I’ve used Kadee’s ever since they became the “standard” in HO during the 50’s. I walk around with my trains and use a card order system. I continue to use Kadee couplers because I can uncouple them from the top by slipping a screwdriver between the knuckles and twisting; never had much use for the magnetic features.
It's been said that the railroad evolved because the ground was so wet in Northunmerland and Durham County, England they had to run horse drawn carts on wooden rails. I say use whatever works, Rob
Rob my peoblem was some real big dips and crest's of hills ( a,k,a, poor track work ) I should be done with my improvements next week. But so far I been able to incress my speed from 45MPH to 70MPH ( scale speed ) thats only taken about 10 days 4hrs per day, Hopefully I will be able to hit 75MPH when I'm done with the mainline. BTY 3-F3's and 7 Aristo steamliner's is my test train.
Easiest conversion is the 831's, but you should trim the end of the tang to make the mount shorter, as they recommend. That shorter length will have less "up and down" when you have abrupt vertical transitions.
I had everything running fine on my layout until I tried running full length passenger cars, and then found that these abrupt transitions made the couplers ride over each other.
Regards, Greg
p.s. I got the scale speed, now going for length of train: (trying for 8 cars, but have a 3.4% grade)
Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.
Click here for Greg's web site
Greg Elmassian Easiest conversion is the 831's, but you should trim the end of the tang to make the mount shorter, as they recommend. That shorter length will have less "up and down" when you have abrupt vertical transitions. I had everything running fine on my layout until I tried running full length passenger cars, and then found that these abrupt transitions made the couplers ride over each other. Regards, Greg p.s. I got the scale speed, now going for length of train: (trying for 8 cars, but have a 3.4% grade)
I found that one engine per 3 passenger car's works on up to 4%. I have not tryed my FA/FB since I added the baggage car. Your train looks like its all USAT. My aristo is a heavy train it backs well thur all but the 210 digree turn ,all 9ft dia.i have on one end of my RR. Kind sad that I can't get rid of it. That section allows me to complete the loop. and my nabor or my wife will give up that exrta foot that I need.
That picture is 2 Aristo E8's with 6 extra pounds of lead each. My ruling grade is 3.4%. I also have USAT F3's I run AABBBA (just for fun) and they also pull this train and also an 8 car Aristo heavyweight set. At one end of the layout there is a 180 degree hairpin of 9.5' diameter, no problems.
It really sounds like you need to work on your vertical transitions. Stick with the G scale Kadees. Make sure your coupler mounting is not sloppy up and down. Sometimes you need to work on the USAT mounts so they don't have vertical slop.
Make the coupler heights spot on with the Kadee gauge. Also, use a small needle file on the inside of the Kadee knuckles, there is a slight "crowning" inside from the molding process. Make sure you do not file away the "lip" that keeps the couplers together.
Do all this stuff and you will have no more problems.
Get the Garden Railways newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month