Aristocraft Switches revisited

[Shu]

Gents - I purchased and installed 3 AristoCraft switches on my layout at CDCRR . Is there a fix or upgrade to these things? They seem poorly constructed for out-door use to me. I was surprised and somewhat disappointed with the exposed linkage that is prone to jamming and general contamination from roadbed and particulate matter of all sorts. Also, I have found that the solenoid and gearing mechanism is mechanically very weak and inconsistant in operation - one last gripe (I promise) is the long term surviveability in the elements. I didn't see any weatherproofing effort on the switchbox? I can't imagine what condition these will b in in a few years. Any comments or experience on the matter would be greatly appreciated. I am thinking about building R/C Servo interfaces to operate the switches in place of the factory actuators. Thanks in advance - Shu

 

 

[ttrigg]

Chu

I do not have any Aristo switches, so some of what I say here may not apply. I have nothing but LGB switches in my layout, (acquired long before the price increases and the bankruptcy proceedings.) In the beginning I too was concerned about having the moving parts so exposed. Seems as though being exposed causes fewer problems than having them enclosed where debris cannot get out. When ballasting, do not ballast in the immediate area of the moving parts.

[g. gage]

Howdy Shu; you didn’t say which Aristo switches your using. I use Aristo X-wide and started with LGB 1600 switches which I still use. Both switches are curved through the switch. LGB 1600 is designed to use with 8’ dia. track while X-wide is for 10’dia. The original X-wide had some wiring problems due to small gauge wire that would burn up or melt plastic in short circuit situations causing an open or loose connection. There have been several up grades by Aristo over the years and I haven’t had any problems with the newer X-switches. The older ones I rewire with heavier wire.

 

The LGB 1600 switches had a problem with the contact carrying current to the point rails. I solder a wire to each point rail bypassing the contact.

 

As stated before I ballast lightly around switch points, guard rails and frogs. I like to walk with the trains and do a lot of switching. When I’m operating I carry a screwdriver for cleaning debris and uncoupling Kadee couplers; standard on my railroad.

 

Hope it helps, Rob

 

[Shu]

The switches I bought are Aristocraft 11215 here . Part of my problem is that I am using DG (decomposed granite) for ballast - which I really am happy with except they play hell with the switches. I have to check the 3 switches before I run each time. Not that big of a deal really. I see that there are available 'slow motion'  switch machines avail here as an upgrade but not sure if they world make things more dependable. I need to look into it a bit more. One of the switches slips gears right out of the box, sound like my old volkswagen transmission. This is the fun stuff - thanks guys, I'm takin the motorhome out for the next 4 days, headin out for Silver Creek CG off hwy 88 in the mornin when I get off duty - will take the saloon project with me camping and do some detail painting while I'm there. Will post more picts when I return Friday. Talk to you guys later! - Shu

[Camaro1967]

I predict that you will have the same problems with any brand of switch that you use.  I would recommend putting a piece of hardibacker board under each switch, and not ballasting over the board.  This will keep them level, and clean, and avoid a lot of problems with small pieces of ballast getting in there. Keeping them level and in line with the rest of the track will prevent lots of derailments. 

Paul

[g. gage]

Shu, I forgot to mention all my switches are manual and we also have DG (our natural soil). When I throw the switch I sometimes have to push the point against the rail or use my trusty screwdriver to clear away debris.

Rob

[Shu]

Rob - Thanks for the info - I have come up with a change in the track plan for the layout which will minimize the problem. The new plan will eliminate the interior loop of CDCRR and extend the main line  to the east. I am going to still use the switches but they will possibly be on a trestle. I'm trying to figure a way to make that look half way decent, don't remember anyone putting a switch on a trestle, or at least don't remember seeing one - I can see that CHANGE is a constant with the railroad - Shu 

[Shu]

Paul - That may be an option I may want to explore. We'll call it PLAN B. Thanks

[Greg Elmassian]

It's a well known fact that the Aristo switch motors don't last outdoors and they often do not have enough power to move the points.

Solutions:

1. LGB switch motors. They last well, need infrequent maintenance.
2. The new Aristo slow motion switch motor, cheap, but there have been some quality issues with the spring.
3. The Bohler motor that the Aristo is a clone of. (See the Train-Li people). High quality and proven in Germany, new here.
4. Air solenoids, like I use (see my site).

The throwbars in Aristo switches are not UV resistant, so squirt them with Armorall or the like every 6 months.

 See my site for more tips and details, there are 4 separate web pages on Aristo switches, under TRACK.

 

Regards, Greg

[dwbeckett]

and then......... I use 6x16 or 8x16x2 capstones under my switch's........ cheap and easy way of getting a flat serface under the switch $0.80 - $0.83 each sw. Tripel check track joints  Make them as smooth as you can not just the top the insides too. an offset rail will cause derails .

Dave