Hi Everyone my name is craig . I'am new to the site and need some advice on the right power supply to use on my layout. I have 4 different g scale trains running at all times. Some of my locos are running a little slow while pulling there cars. I only have the original power packs from LGB #5003/110. They are fine with the very small locos , but running anything larger there is not enough power. Can anyone recommend the right power source to use and were to get them from. Thanks for any help. you can email me at craig-tina@comcast.net. Thanks, craig.
There are lots of ways to go. Are you going to stay with track power? Do you want wireless remote control? Are the trains on 4 independent loops? Will you be adding sound? What is your budget for a power supply and controllers?
Try answering these questions and think about the future of your railroad. Please be sure to address the budget question... many times a newcomer asks lots of questions, many people come in to help with lots of suggestions, and 90% of them are a waste of time because they do not fit the budget or how trains are to be operated.
Regards, Greg
Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.
Click here for Greg's web site
I use the Aristo Train Engineer wireless with a 10 amp power supply. I got the whole rig from Ridge Road http://www.ridgeroadstation.com/ by mail order. Aristo makes larger power supplies, but the 10 amp is more than adequate for most needs.
The quick and dirty rule is to buy the largest power supply you can afford, even if you don't think you'll need it. These things last forever and chances are you will want to expand your layout or add accesories in the future. If you do, then you will already have the power on hand without having to buy another unit. Oddly, the larger capacity power supplies are often cheaper than the smaller versions.
The Dixie D Short Line "Lux Lucet In Tenebris Nihil Igitur Mors Est Ad Nos 2001"
First, welcome aboard. I have similar questions as those mentioned before, so to simplify I’ll tell you what I have. I use an Aristo Ultima 10amp power supply with 27meg Train Engineers. My railroad is a 450’ loop with a 100’ branch, grades of 2.5% meandering around the garden. It is all brass track and track power. All freight trains average 15 cars and have at least two locos each with two motors; passenger service is an RDC car. I often run two freights and the RDC (nine motors) simultaneously on one power supply and TE. I also run a 25 car train with four locos (eight motors). I did have two TE’s and a Transmitter repaired of over the past 16 years; Aristo repaired them all as warranty, no cost to me.
Hope this helps, Rob
For Track Power, two types of DC power supplies are built. For "G" gauge you need at least 18 volts output but never over 25 volts (the limit voltage for much of the electronics in your train). 10 Amps is your maximum current output you will want to use, that's the maximum amps for the Aristo Train Engineer, MTH/DCS, and other control systems. If your power supply puts out more than 10 amps, then you should fuse the output for 10 amps or less.
The older but good and proven design takes the AC from your house current, uses a Transformer to lower the voltage from 115 volts to aprox 18 to 22 volts and Rectifies it to DC. The Aristo Ultima is a good example. THE DISADVANTAGE is, as you load the system with more locomotives or longer runs of track, the transformer action causes the output voltage to drop. What may be 18 volts with one locomotive may be 16 volts with two and so on.
The modern way to produce a clean and stable DC output is with a "Switching Power Supply". It does not use a transformer, it uses all solid state components to lower, rectify, and maintain an Exact Output Voltage. The Aristo Elite and Everest are good examples. As you increase the load on the power supply, the voltage stays the same but the amperage output rises to meet the demand. When this type of power supply reaches its maximum amperage output, as in too many trains or a derailment, it will shut down instantly ( its called a "Crowbar Circuit"), hopefully before any damage is done. Most of this type have high power output and should have a "fast blow", 10 amp, automotive type fuse added in the line between the Power Supply and the track or control unit.(Radio Shack)
Don U. TCA 73-5735
Hi Greg , thanks for the quick reply. Here is my question. Budget is no problem with me. The trains are running on 4 different lines independent of each other. . Do i need power supplies and controllers for each line. Most replys i have gotten say aristo 10amp power supply and controller is the way to go. All trains are running on track power. the locos are pulling between 6 to 12 cars each. i have found pricing between $75 to $150 for the same power source. I would rather buy new power supplies than used like on ebay. Thanks again for the advice, craig.
Even though a bit more money, I would use 4 independent power supplies, 10 amps or so each.
10 amps might seem like overkill, but lighted passenger cars can add appreciably to the current draw, and lighted cabeese can take almost an amp. I have a passenger train that uses almost 1.5 amps per car.
I'd try the meanwell power supplies from TRC Electronics, I think 24v and 10 amps is about $62 each, very good quality, fan cooled switching power supplies.
On the control, you could use a simple controller, or the wireless Aristocraft TE, or other stuff.
You might want to explore the possibilities. The Aristo trackside TE system is reliable and has good range, but there are some limitations. The basic limitation is only one train per track. If that is no problem, then it's inexpensive and reliable.
monkeyworks I have found pricing between $75 to $150 for the same power source. I would rather buy new power supplies than used like on ebay.
I have found pricing between $75 to $150 for the same power source. I would rather buy new power supplies than used like on ebay.
The variation in the pricing basically depends on the "overhead costs" of the business you are buying it from. Some internet "stores" are run out of the owners back bedroom and U-Store it shed. These guys buy from the manufacturer/supplier at the same price as the "walk-in store" that has goods on the shelf and a person behind the counter.
I have to agree about starting with a new, sealed in the box, power supply. The power supplies I see on E-Bay I ask myself, "Why is he selling it? What didn't he like about it?"
Greg Elmassian I would use 4 independent power supplies, 10 amps or so each. Greg
I would use 4 independent power supplies, 10 amps or so each.
Greg
I second that motion. An independent power supply, transformer, for each line will also provide each area with its own constant DC and AC outlets for accessories such as building, street/sidewalk lights, switches (turnouts) and other goodies that will come along later.
Just had a thought, are your four trains on independent tracks in the same area or are they in independently separated areas? If they are in different locations, i.e. front yard, back yard, side yard, then definitely go with independent power supplies. If they are in the same area, like one above the other, then look into the system Greg talked about.
Just forgot! Welcome to the forum!
Tom Trigg
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