Alluminum vs Brass

[sailbode]

I'm new so forgive me if this has been covered adnoseum.  I have a shelf system inside (all LGB brass) and would love to start an outdoor set.  $$$ is an issue and I see some alluminum track is quite inexpensive.  Are there problems with the alluminum that might make it a bad idea for outdoors?  I see one company offers pre painted flex track........sounds like just what I'm looking for.  Your thoughts appreciated.

Don

[kstrong]

Aluminum's biggest issue is that it's "iffy" when conducting electricity. It's great if you're running battery power or live steam, but if you're supplying electrons via the rails, brass will be your better option.

Look at AMS's brass track (available in both code 250 and code 332). You can usually find that at very reasonable prices.

Later,

K

[two tone]

Hi Sailbode,      Go for brass track, mine has been down 5years plus with no problems,  as $ count look on ebay there is a lot for sale. Always go for new then it should last you years with no prob.   Hope this helps

[ttrigg]

Not only will I add my vote to brass, but also to "flex" brass. I will quote myself here from my response to Allen93644 in his posting Measuring curved track radius.

ttrigg

I am a firm believer in bending my own rails. There are several advantages to rail bending. 1) Bend the size curve you need, not stuck with the 2, 3, or 4 curvatures the vendor produces. 2) Fewer rail joints make for fewer possibilities of the wheels "picking" a slightly off joint and derailing. 3) Reduced need for "feeder wires" if running track power. When I started out, I too, filled the back of the truck with sectional curves and straights which now fill boxes in the shed until such time as I need a quick siding realignment or such.

Brass is much much more efficient in pushing the electrons down the rails than aluminum.

[Greg Elmassian]

Actually, the funny thing is that aluminum is a better conductor than brass. But, the problem is that aluminum oxidizes almost immediately in the presence of air, so the connections to the rail (power and joiners) are poor. There are some conductive pastes that can help, but they are not designed for sitting outdoors.

Brass will do much better.

I have stainless, a poorer conductor, but does not oxidize like brass or aluminum. Unfortunately, it's a lot higher in price, and more trouble to bend and harder to solder to (jumpers), so the overall price goes up a lot.

Regards, Greg

[Curmudgeon]

TrainWorld discount prices on AC six-foot sections are $30 each.

Llagas Aluminum is $20.

Adds up.

 Then there is the much higher shipping costs, due to weight.

Finish up, you've got 9.63" high rail in 1:29.

Check a real railroad sometime.

I look at photos in the mag, I see nicely detailed locomotives on 332 and just turn the page.

I use 250 and 215.

Does not overpower the trains.

150 pound rail is 7-3/4" tall.

The more comon 130 pound rail is 6-3/4" tall.

Extrapolating, looks like 190 pound rail (currently manufactured from unobtainium).

On another "plus", I like the way shorter profile rail follows the vertical curvature of the landscape.....and, I have yet to need a railbender.

[Radish Bahn]

 I used code 250 aluminum track for 10 years and brass for about 4 years. Here's my observations:

 Aluminum

• It bends easily. This is an advantage when laying track and a disadvantage if it's in an area that has high traffic or things falling on it
• Conductivity through the rails is no problem - the material is not an issue because the cross section of the rails is plenty to handle any current needed to run a train
• Conductivity through the joints is an issue for slip on joiners but not a problem if you use set screw type joiners
• Thermal expansion is high. If you have large extremes in temperature make sure the track can move or float
• When it's dry, the oxide film that forms on the outside is a reasonably good conductor and power pick up to the locomotive wheels is not a problem. When it's even a little bit damp it forms a gummy deposit that will cause problems with power pickup. If you have damp or shady areas in your layout you might want to avoid aluminum
• You can't solder electrical connections to aluminum but if you use screw type joiners you can attach a wire connector under the screw head
  
• There's probably a bit more traction that with brass rails but I don't know this for sure
  

Brass

• You'll need to buy or borrow a rail bender for flex track
• Conductivity is no problem either through the rails or to the locomotive wheels
• Slip on rail joiners tend to stay tighter than aluminum one's but I'd still recommend screw type joiners
  
• Cleaning is relatively easy
• It is more durable than aluminum
• It can be soldered
• It's more expensive that aluminum

If you're on a budget and live in a dry area with little traffic aluminum will work just fine. Otherwise wait until you can afford brass track. The height of the rail is a matter of personal preference. There's a trade off between the more scale appearance of the lower profiles versus durability and reliable running. Unfortunately the twigs, leaves and slugs that end up on your track are way out of scale and if you have a lot of these the higher profile rails give you a bit more margin for error.

[kstrong]

Great summary, a few additional points...

With code 250 brass, you do not need a railbender. I built my railroad (AMS code 250 brass) without the aid of one. If you're going to be doing tighter curves (8' diameter/4' radius or less) then a rail bender will definitely be beneficial regardless of which material you choose. Bending the rails that tight by hand while still keeping the curve even is something of either a black art or quixotic pursuit.

Also, while code 332 brass rail is more durable than code 250 brass rail, it doesn't necessarily follow that code 332 aluminum is more durable than code 250 brass. It may be (I've never tested it), but in practicality, so long as the track is well supported with a solid foundation, you can walk on most all of the commercial track without too much worry. I wouldn't make a habit out of it, but if you need to, you're not going to cause irreparable damage.

The additional clearance above twigs, etc. with the code 332 rail is a distinct advantage, and if your railroad is prone to attacks from above (falling leaves, twigs, acorns, etc.) then the added height will mitigate things that go plop. Alas, I've never been blessed with twigs, leaves, or other debris that have the common courtesy to fall neatly between the rails, so I end up derailing on them regardless of the size of the rail. :( That's all part of the fun of the great outdoors, I suppose.

Later,

K

[Dick Friedman]

I've used aluminum code 250 rail for about 9 years.  It's easy to work, more nearly prototypical in appearance, bends easily and conducts electricity better than any metal save copper!  Its biggest drawbacks are 1) you can't solder it, and the size, not the material, makes it less robust than brass or stainless steel.

Joint conductivity is not a problem unless you use brass joiners.  Even stainless steel slip joiners don't work very well, as they tend to open up over time.  My hint that will appear in GR in the future, that is, to insert a piece of heavy aluminum foil inside a brass joiner will eliminate most electrical problems.

Aluminum does require some cleaning, but a quick walk around the layout with a pole sander and a scotch brite pad (not a sanding pad, aluminum is soft) will clean it up.  You should wallk the track anyway to pick up fruit, twigs, and snails from the rails.  Don't ask me how I know this should be done.