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Bachmann Big Hauler track?

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Bachmann Big Hauler track?
Posted by philnrunt on Monday, March 23, 2009 1:11 AM

Hello, I am starting an indoor layout in G, and I need some opinions on Bachmann Big Hauler track. I've read some rather scathing reviews of it when used outside, but this layout will be totally indoors, the track will have a main bus power supply attached every 18 inches or so, and it should be fairly easy to clean with just a handfull - 4-6- switches.

   I am absolutely confident in the quality of replies I'll get here, the HO forum has been my haunt for the last 5 years.

   Help me out guys, is it ok for indoor use, or should I stick with Aristo or LGB?

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Posted by two tone on Monday, March 23, 2009 4:14 AM

Hi   Chuck the track away it is only for limited use,  Go for LGB brass thats what I use and in 6 yrs i`ve not had a prob with it. 

                Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life

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Posted by cacole on Monday, March 23, 2009 6:16 AM

The Bachmann G-scale track I have seen is hollow aluminum that is so thin it would be practically impossible to solder feeder wires to it, and I don't know of any other way to attach a feeder.  I assume that Bachmann makes an electrical terminal rail section, which is what you would probably have to use for the feeder wires.

If I were in your situation, even for an indoor layout, I'd use stainless Aristo track, which is solid rail, is more sturdy, and will last much longer.  Bachmann track may be cheaper in the beginning, but I think you'll wind up having to replace worn pieces so often that it will be more costly in the long term.

I, too, dabble in both HO and G.

 

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Posted by g. gage on Monday, March 23, 2009 1:56 PM

The Bachmann track may be ok for under the Christmas tree, but if you’re commiting to an indoor layout/railroad I’d go with Aristo, USA Trains track. in fact I did. I use brass track with track power. You can have bigger curves and switches also connections are a lot easier. You’re already talking about expansion with more switches etc why not start out right and you’ll always be able to reuse the new track for bigger and better railroads.    

 

Good luck, Rob   

 

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Posted by altterrain on Monday, March 23, 2009 2:39 PM

 I have solder leads to the inside of the hollow steel rail (tinplate). Its pretty thin stuff and does not take much abuse. It will also limit you to 4 foot diameter curves.

Aristo track is your best bet since LGB is scarce and expensive. It also gives you a wider range of sizes. PIKO track is similar to LGB. 

-Brian 

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Posted by vsmith on Monday, March 23, 2009 3:01 PM

It would help to know what kind of inside layout you are planning,

Traditional model railroad w/ benchwork?

Overhead around the room?

My layout is inside, a traditional layout built on benchwork, and I have found that the track needs to be tougher than the bachmann tinplate, mine has to be strong enough for me to stand on it while I'm doing scenery behind it, so the tinplate is way to weak for that, plus any period of cleaning of the track will eventually were it down a bit. Also Bmann track only comes in 4 types, R1 curve, 12" straight, R1 LH and R1 RH turnout, thats it. So your track planning options are severly limited, if you need to trim a peice it might just comel apart instead. If your thinking of an overhead type layout, the Bmann track should be fine for that, but if you planning a more traditional layout with a more complex track plan, use brass track, its more forgiving and much more versitle.

   Have fun with your trains

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Posted by philnrunt on Monday, March 23, 2009 11:42 PM

This is exactly why I love this forum. I will go with Aristo, you all make very good points.

   As for the type of layout, it's going to be a granger branchline, my engines will be an Aristo U-25 (got it) and a USA GP-38-2 (ordered it last week) and it will have 5 industries to switch.

  It will be an around the wall shelf type in a 24' x 30' garage, with (maybe) a peninsula or two. Those depend on how much stuff I can get out of the way with the shelves I'm building now.

  Thanks guys, and rest assured I'll be back with more questions as they arise!

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Posted by DMUinCT on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 9:40 AM

  For normal use, Aristo-Craft, U.S.A., Piko, and LGB all make track it the 332 spec. and are interchangeable.   Brass or Stainless is your choice.

  Power connections are easy, crimp an eyelet on your wire and use a Rail Clamp (Split Jaw or Hillman) to fasten it to the rail.  LGB also makes a Track Connector that uses Thumb Screws on each rail to feed power.

 You may want to stick with one brand as the color of the metal in the track, do to a different mix of base materials, will not match.   Look close at switches, tho costly, the #6 switch made by Aristo-Craft and U.S.A. are a thing of beauty, the Train glides through them without a "toy train" wiggle.

Don U. TCA 73-5735

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Posted by g. gage on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 12:59 PM

Hi Don and all, I was using the LGB screw on track power connector you mentioned on LGB track. When I got my first USA Trains loco (GP9) I found the stirrup under the springs hit on the LGB screw on track power connectors. I haven’t heard anyone mention this problem.

 

I replaced the LGB connectors with Hillman track connectors and crimp a spade tip connector on the wire as you suggested. On my new layout (started in 2002) I’m using Aristo and USA track. I simplified my electrical track connections, dipping the stripped wire into no-ox and crimping on a spade tip connector then dipping it in no-ox and slipping it between the rail and tie strip bending the spade tip ends over the rail; this system work well for me.

 

Have fun, Rob

 

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