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Track and Switch Questions

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  • Member since
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Track and Switch Questions
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, April 15, 2004 2:12 PM
I am going to make my first purchase of sectional track for my outdoor layout upon the arrival of my first set hopefully this Friday. I am going to be using the Aristo-Craft USA Brass Track for this purpose. Now, I intend to design my backyard layout based on expanding a circle of track that will constitute my first purchase. Since I am yet to build a fence, I will be purchasing track in stages. My questions are…

1) What is a good circle diameter to begin with? I have noted that some have suggested 8 ft to allow for larger locomotion. Will the 6.5 section work as well?

2) There has been recently a few “bashing” question about Aristo-Craft switches. Since I plan on having numerous switches on my line(s), which type should I order?

Thanks in advance.
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Posted by vsmith on Thursday, April 15, 2004 5:20 PM
I will always recommend LGB switches over Aristo, but I will clarify that I am using R1 curves and havent used Aristos larger diameter turnouts. I have experienced numerous stalls and derailments with the R1 Aristo switches but cannot comment on the larger turnouts, they may be fine with larger engines.

Caviat about LGB R3 switches, they DO NOT come in manual, only electric. If you do not want to wire 5 million feet of control wire and some very pricey control boxes you might consider the Aristo wide radius turnouts. LGB's are also much more pricey than the Aristos. I would just stay away from the R1 stuff.

Wider is better, if you have the room I would go no smaller than 6 foot diameter, 8 foot's better and seams to be the defacto "standard" right now. You can run almost everything on the 8 foot diameter curves.

   Have fun with your trains

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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, April 15, 2004 5:26 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by vsmith

I will always recommend LGB switches over Aristo, but I will clarify that I am using R1 curves and havent used Aristos larger diameter turnouts. I have experienced numerous stalls and derailments with the R1 Aristo switches but cannot comment on the larger turnouts, they may be fine with larger engines.

Caviat about LGB R3 switches, they DO NOT come in manual, only electric. If you do not want to wire 5 million feet of control wire and some very pricey control boxes you might consider the Aristo wide radius turnouts. LGB's are also much more pricey than the Aristos. I would just stay away from the R1 stuff.

Wider is better, if you have the room I would go no smaller than 6 foot diameter, 8 foot's better and seams to be the defacto "standard" right now. You can run almost everything on the 8 foot diameter curves.


Vic,

Thanks for the advice. I think will, go with the 6 foot diameter, for the sake of price. Unless you strongly reply that I should go with 8 foot diameter.

For your help and advice, I will name one of my curves "Smith Curve," or "Borracho Curve" if you prefer. Ya never know, someday I may put in a whislte-stop there. But my layout is many months, if not years, from fruition. Plenty of time to stock up and plan!

Again, thanks.
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, April 15, 2004 6:23 PM
Hi Capt Carrales
in answer to you 1st question my standard answer is the largest radius the area will allow that way the maximum avalable options on locomotives and rolling stock
is avalable.
From my perspective a six foot six inch curve would be heaven sentand I would say if you can have larger without compromisng your overall plan do so.
as to your swiches after my expierience with arestocraft swiches like vsmith I say no to Aristocraft like him I have had problems with the R1 with stalling fouling and derailing
but after that expierience I will nouch any of that brand of switch.
I have LGB R1swiches which work well but if you can avoid them for the same reason as going for the largest radius curve you can fit in I have one LGB r3 switch and have not
had any problems with it,
But I have heard some have had problems with LGB r3 swirches but have heard nothing specific as to what the problem was.
regards John
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, April 15, 2004 7:30 PM
I have been running my trains around my basement for a few months now . Soon I will be starting my first outdoor railroad now that the weather is warming up here in Chicago .I am using 10' dia. track downstairs with a couple of Aristocraft #6 switches . I have been running everything from Dash 9's to the little eggliner and even a Lionel 0-6-0 and haven't had one derailment or stall on these switches. I'm talking real slow speeds here . I can't say anything bad about these switches. And like someone else wrote on this thread , go with the largest dia. curve that will fit. , I'm using 20' dia. outside You won't regret it .
  • Member since
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  • From: Coldstream, BC Canada
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Posted by RhB_HJ on Thursday, April 15, 2004 9:46 PM
Capt,

Don't forget to look at stainless steel track. Saves a lot of annoying cleaning.

The larger the diameter the better, even better yet use flextrack and bend the curves to what will fit - always keeping in mind your min. radius.
Two advantages: you get track that looks like it's designed for the location (that's what the railways do!) and you can make nice easement curves. The latter will make for much smoother operation.

BTW there are a few other turnout mfgs besides Aristo and LGB.
Whatever you get keep in mind that good track is the most important part of any railway. You may have one or two crappy cars or engines that annoy you, big deal!
You get crappy track, really big deal!!!
Cheers HJ http://www.rhb-grischun.ca/ http://www.easternmountainmodels.com
  • Member since
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Posted by RhB_HJ on Thursday, April 15, 2004 9:56 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by John Busby

...........................
I have LGB R1swiches which work well but if you can avoid them for the same reason as going for the largest radius curve you can fit in I have one LGB r3 switch and have not
had any problems with it,
But I have heard some have had problems with LGB r3 swirches but have heard nothing specific as to what the problem was.
regards John



John et al,

Have a look at this for a few tips on what to fix on turnouts prior to installing them
http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/lgb_1600.html for LGB 1600 types. http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips2/aristo_turnout_tips.html for the Aristo types.

And while you're there guys; bookmark George's site, lots of excellent tips.

BTW having to fix things prior to installing them rubs me the wrong way, which was one of the reasons I decided to handlay my turnouts http://www3.telus.net/RhB_layout_Grischun/E/html/track.html that way I know which butt to kick when things don't work.[;)][;)][:D]
Cheers HJ http://www.rhb-grischun.ca/ http://www.easternmountainmodels.com

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