Ok, this does make me rethink things. BTW, I am in central PA where this winter it got to -12 degree and it gets high 90's to 100 degree in the summer. My longest track length right now is going to be less than 20' (remember I'm a newbie) and I'm going to use a floating track method so it sounds like I will be fine even if I do solder all the joints.
Carl
cbower2
Expansion is a much smaller problem than most people believe at the beginning. Not sure where you are located and what your local climatic conditions are. All of my rail joints are solid, either soldered or rail clamps. There are enough "slender S curves" where the rails weave between sprinkler heads and rose bushes to allow the track to move where needed. Don't misunderstand, I'm not saying to forget about expansion, yes it will happen, but not anywhere near the degree that first "road in the gardeners" would believe. If you are using any of the "floating track" methods discussed within this forum, you should have minimal to no problems due to expansion on straight runs under 40~50 foot. If you are nailing, gluing, or screwing the track to your foundation, then you will need to allow for expansion joints. In that case I would suggest looking at the rail clamps from Split Jaw or Hillmans that are designed as expansion joints. They will give better over time performance, by holding the rails in proper alignment and electrical conductivity when compared with loose fitting slip on connectors that will require more frequent cleaning and tightening.
Tom Trigg
Thanks for the tips everyone. I think I'm going to agree with Mark though. The wires seemed to be a pain in the butt so I tryed just soldering the joiners and it works great. I bought a micro torch (butune) and that works with very minimal tie melting. My biggest concern is that if all are soldered it won't allow for any expansion in extremes in weather conditions. I thought I would leave a few unsoldered, but justmake sure those connections are clean and tight and maybe use soem conductive grease if need be.
I'll have to let you know in a couple of years how its working.
Carl, who can't wait until the weather breaks so he can start installing.
You don't need to bother with the wire. Just solder the joiners. I did some sevral years ago and they are still holding up just fine.
Mark
M. Gilger - President and Chief Engineer MM&G web
Web Site: http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com/
I haven’t had satisfactory results soldering large scale rails. It usually takes a torch to get the rail hot enough for solder to flow which often melts the plastic ties, even when using a damp cloth beyond the solder work. I use Aristo and USA track with screw connectors, I’ve drilled and tapped (2-56) my LGB track. On switch work I use Hillman Clamps for ease of maintenance. For feeders I crimp spade connectors on the wire ends (dipped in connective grease) then slip the connector (dipped in connective grease) between the rail and tie strip and bend the protruding spades over the rail base. I’ve been using this system for about five year and it works very well for me.
I hope this helps, Rob
I have about 500 foot of LGB brass rail on the ground. I soldered most of the joints and do not use any "jumper" wires. Suggestions: Buff up the ends of the rails and clean the inside of the rail joiners as best you can. I use a small propane torch so I must keep the plastic ties away. I use Silver/Tin solder with a paste flux. (standard plumbing type) All of my non-soldered joints are done with "Split Jaw Rail Clamps" (Hillman also makes a very good clamp.) I have feeder wires supplying power to the rails about every 100 feet and have had no problems in over 5 years. The main thing weather using solder or a rail clamp is to have the joint clean when being made. I have not had to perform any cleaning maintenance on any of the rail clamps.
http://photobucket.com/rosebudfalls
I use 12 gauge copper stranded wire for my railroad. And I use an 80 W iron to solder. I have a 140 W gun but it won't work on this size track and wire, at least it won't work for me. The iron has enough mass so that once it's heated up it transfers heat to the joint quickly. With the gun there is almost no mass so it takes much longer to get the joint hot, by then I'm melting ties. I take a Dremel with a wire brush and clean the location on the track that I want to solder to. Apply some flux, pre-tin the wire and then solder it in place. I've soldered jumpers between every connection (I use 5 foot sections and 9 foot minimum curves, 20 foot maximum curves). On some of the connections I use rail clamps and on some of those I haven't bothered to use jumpers. This has worked well for me for about 5 or 6 years.
Bob in Kalamazoo
I am in the process of laying our the track for spring in my garage and I'm thinking about presoldering sections of track while its inside. The track isn't huge by any means, its 16x 7' but I thought I would solder the joints at least for the curves and some of the straight runs inside. Its is LGB track. What gauge wire should I use to make the jump between track sections? and what size type of solder? I'm guesing I use copper wire right? I've soldered a lot of copper water pipes but never this small a scale. I do have a soldering gun, so I won't be using a torch like the pipes in case you're wondering.
Also is it possible to just solder the factory rail joiners to the track and not use a jumper wire?
One more newbie question, how many additional leads should I use for a track this size? you know besides the one from the standard transformer/power pack which is only a couple feet long. That one will have to be lenghted by several feet to reach the porch which is where I will keep the transformer.
Thanks for helping this newbie out.
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