laying track

[fltvalyrr]

I finaly tore up my layout and started to redo it but the question came up what is a good way to

lay it and lay stone without having stone all over

 

[kstrong]

When you say "stone," I'll assume you're referring to the ballast, not rip-rap or other landscaping stone used as a border, etc.

Most folks use crusher fines (also known as rock dust, quarter-minus, sand, scree, and a host of other names). Basically, it's the small stuff left over from crushing the rock into otherwise sizable bits and pieces. The advantage of using that material is that it has a tendency to pack down and lock together. A good, hard rain will still splash it around, but light misting and spraying from sprinklers tend to leave it in place. Some folks go a step further and mix a bit of cement into the ballast when spreading it. Once wet, the cement hardens up--not so hard to make concrete, but enough to keep things in place. It can be broken apart with just a little force.

As far as laying the track itself, there are numerous ways to do so, each as effective as the next depending on how much work you want to put into it. A concrete roadbed is the most permanent and stable, but is also the most labor intensive. At the other end of the spectrum is building the track by merely floating it in the ballast subroadbed. It all depends on how much work you want to do up front vs. periodic maintenance every year or three.

Later,

K

[g. gage]

I represent “the other end of the spectrum” floating my track in decomposed granite (screened) for several reasons; everything in California moves, our soil here in the Sierra Nevada is decomposed granite and packs well. We have a deer problem and use brass (TE track power) Aristo (euro) and USA track because it screws together and is robust. When I started I used LGB track and have drilled and tapped (2-56) it successfully. I use Hillman clamps on switches to ease maintenance.

 

Hope this helps, Rob

[Rex in Pinetop]

For putting down ballast I use a 2 quart pitcher and "pour" the crusher fines down the center of the track.  I then use a 4" paint brush to fill the ballast into the ties followed by a light misting to settle the ballast in place.  I use the pitcher and brush after heavy rain to fill the washed away areas.  Some guys use white glue mixed with water to hold their ballast in place but I've never tried that.  I did try concrete but thermal expansion/contraction defeated that method in my location.

Hope this helps too,

Rex 

[rpc7271]

Since you are up there in Pine Top you have to deal with the freeze/thaw cycle just like building a house. The best thing would still be concrete but you either have to get it anchored below the freeze line or heavily reinforce it with rebar. Both an expensive issue. The next choice I would recommend you consider is sone sort of ladder trackwork system with posts driven in below the freeze line. Normally ladder trackwork is used with a 2 to 3 foot height but that doesnt mean you cant put it in with a 6 inch height if you want too. Then after the ladder system in in just fill in around it and lay your track. In places where freeze/thaw is a problem the trackwork should be built well enough that you could step on it without damaging it. A third alternative could be a roadbed of pressure treated lumber cut to fit your trackwork but cutting and securing pieces together around curves is a lot of work also.

[mgilger]

If you float your track on a gravel roadbed, you don't have to worry about the freezing and thawing. After putting down gravel so you have a decent roadbed, maybe 2 inches above the ground, lay the track. After everything is down go back over and lay ballast down the middle and with a stiff brush move it all around to fill in the gaps. I use what is called medium Chicken Grit, sold at most farm and garden centers.

I started out digging a trench several inches deep, then filling that with stone. For about 1/3rd of the layout, I simply laid the stone on top of weed barrier material. After 4 years, it's holding up just as well as the trenched part. So any new track will be simply put down on top of the round and I won't bother trenching. 

 If you go to the following youtube link, you will see how I constructed my layout.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMjEG7vQhqU&feature=related

Regards,

Mark