My "display racks" are a blend of different methods.
I like Michael's idea of the plexi faceplate. The New Bright rails allow the trains to jump off when we have a shake larger than 3.5. Someday I will decide which way to go to have uniform shelving, most likely grooves for the wheels.
Tom Trigg
Thanks - I may use what is called melamine shelving , which is painted white so provides good contrast with the wall behind and shows off the G scale display and lower details much better. ( My background is already pine tongue and groove boards ) I'll cut 2 grooves in the melamine to fit the flanges and the cars will not wander.
EXcellent - and thanks for the quick reply
Yeah I'd have to agree with you Brian Bmann track is now $$$ new so go with plastic off brands to either "show off" or "just as a sitter". Ain't nothing wrong with plastic track for shelfing.
Toad
New Bright track?
vsmithYou could always just use the stuff from Bachmann, I find its a great display track "substitute"
You could always just use the stuff from Bachmann, I find its a great display track "substitute"
The Bachmann metal track is actuallly a bit pricey. I bought a bunch of the plastic stuff on eBay for such purposes -
I have a bunch of the curves left over though. I will use those for some curvy storage track or a small wiggly indoor layout.
-Brian
Have fun with your trains
You can cut dados (grooves) in the shelf with a table saw. Make them about .25 deep and about 1.5 inches apart.
Alternatively, you can rip down masonite hardboard strips 1.25 inches wide and mount those to your shelf.
Hey Barry. I have display shelves on three sides of my workshop. I use a slightly different method however. My shelves can accomadate either two or three rows of trains. I used a table saw to cut grooves in the wood where the rail would be. I find this easiest to do and it uses the least amount of wood. Finally, I cut 4 inch strips of plexiglass and added it to the front of each shelve. This is strictly for earthquake prone Southern California. While it won't help in the "big one", it gives me peace of mind.
I added some pictures below. I hope this gives you even more ideas to ponder!! Michael
http://www.haworthengineering.com/
~Excellency in the Details ~
HI BARRY, WHAT I DID IS WHAT YOU MENTIONED. I BOUGHT A 8 FOOT BY 1 INCH PINE BOARD AND RAN IT THROUGH A TABLE SAW, THE PIECE I CUT OFF WAS OF A THICKNESS THAT WOULD BE JUST SLIGHTLY LOWER THAT THE TRUCK'S AXEL.
THE WIDTH OF THIS PIECE WOULD BE THE THICKNESS OF THE PINE BOARD (1 INCH). IF YOU HAVE A 2 BY 4, A PIECE COULD BE CUT OFF THIS THAT WOULD BE WIDER BETWEEN THE WHEELS AND BE LESS CAUSE FOR THE CAR, ECT. TO SLIP SIDWAYS. I JUST ATTACHED THIS WITH SOME SMALL BRADES.
THE PINE BOARD ONLY HAS TO BE 6 OR SO INCHES WIDE AND CAN BE HELD UP WITH 4 SHELF BRACKETS. I STARTED WITH THE MISTAKE OF NOT LEAVING QUITE ENOUGH SPACE BETWEEN THE SHELVES. REMEMBER, THE ENGINE OR CAR NEEDS SPACE TO GET OVER THE ATTACHED PIECE THAT RUNS BETWEEN THE WHEELS.
HOPE THIS GIVES SOME IDEAS?
JOHN
I would like to display rolling stock and not use real track for displaying them on a shelf as I need it for running my trains. Does anyone have a good idea how to do this - using narrow pieces of some type of wood, a cheap type of metal, etc.?
Barry Heath
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