What works with what?

[Anonymous]

In a few other posts scattered ‘bout, I discovered that there is a vast wealth of information on which systems are compatible and to what degree. The best test bed for given products are the consumer. We are all consumers, hence I pose the question…

…based on your experience and hearsay, what is compatible with what in terms of [red]Scale, Function and Viability[/red]?

For example, which track functions the best under all conditions and with which sets? Which rolling stock is best with which Locomotives? Which figures are in scale with which structures and trains? What gauge is being modeled?

I propose that we make our stand here and be gentle to those like myself who are new to the scale. [4:-)]

[vsmith]

WOW, can you give me the weekend to type up a responce to this?

you just opened up the Pandora's Box thats is Large Scale...

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by vsmith

WOW, can you give me the weekend to type up a responce to this?

you just opened up the Pandora's Box thats is Large Scale...

Sure, take your time. Maybe we can develop some chart from this that the Editor/Webmaster might be able to post in a separate section. Such a resource would help me greatly and would be a bonus to Large-ScaleKind everywhere.

As for opening Pandora’s Box, well, I guess I get it from all my time on political forums. Oh, by the way, although I enjoy a good political debate; I like the nature of this forum better. Thanks for the help, Vsmith, rest in the knowledge that I consider you and the other threadster’s here to be my main confidants in Large Scale. [4:-)]

[Anonymous]

Hi
You realy have opend pandoras box what is compatable with what the short answer is none of the above.
I have found that all manufactures have different wheel and track standards and diferent scales.
Add to that different couplings.
Makes no two manufactures stock truly compatable with the next.
what I did was because I started with LGB all my track is LGB even the bits a friend built use LGB rail this same friend makes wheels that will run sucsesfully on a couple of brands of track so I use his wheels with the side benefit I get weight where I want it.
I have standadised on LGB couplings and mod other manufacturers stock to take them.
However I am now starting to make my pwn stock which will have a diferent coupling and scale so I can use steam and battery traction.geting away from the what do I buy problem.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by John Busby

Hi
You realy have opend pandoras box what is compatable with what the short answer is none of the above.

I guess what I am trying to get after is what works best with what. An attempt at some form of standardization to prevent poor saps (of which I could easily become) from buying things that will not run properly and, thus, cause frustrations. As that I, and others, are starting basically from scratch, it would be nice to see what types of things actually look, perform and are astetically pleasing when used in tandem.

Here is a short list of things that one would benefit from the wisdom collected in this forum...

Which figures work with which company's sets? With eachother?
What scales are compatibale between companies? (this has been addressed several times in several places, but it is really hard to find)
What locomotives work best on what track? Is there a single best universal track to buy?
Which weels operate the best and is there a set of wheels that all cars can be converted to?

This is just a short list, please feel free to add other standardization problems. I'm sure I'll think of more later. But frem here a chart can be developed that I can post on a website.
[4:-)]

[Anonymous]

Hi
The following will run on LGB track
.
Hartland couplers compatable and wheels interchangable

Bachmann provided not plastic wheels not usualy centerd properly change to bachmann metals compatable couplers suplied but tail catches on insulated tracks box

Lehmann line toy trains made by LGB so compatable with it

Playmobile toy trains definatly toys ruggedly constructed suspect by LGB so fully compatable

Aristocraft their suposedly compatable coupling fouls insulated track box rigid four wheel wagons don't like LGB R1&2 curves track cleaner fouls insulated track box and will derail

Is that the sort of information you are after.
inspite of the diferent scales they seem to be visualy compatable using the ten foot rule
and a bit of carefull choosing of stock.

Playmobile don't look good with any thing other than playmobile but bear in mind these are toy trains for young children and it shows in the size of variouse parts.
hope this helps
regards John

[vsmith]

Then biggest problem with compatability is in the couplers..If you chose to use hook and loops then virtualy everything is interchangable and can be run together, when you start trying to be more realistic it starts getting trickier. As far as I'm concerned I assume that NONE of one brand work with another so I only chose ONE and stick with it. I am using Bachmann couplers and a few engines and cars with link & pin couplers. I know that some couplers will work with other brands but its really hit and miss.

As for wheels IMO all will work on LGB Aristo USA etc track, where the problems occur is at switches, I have had numerous problems with Aristo/USA switches and will never buy again, the bigger engines have derailed on Aristos R1 switches, and my small LGB engines constantly stall on the frogs and guardrails and have had derails with freight cars on the same frogs and guards. I will only buy LGB now with no problems with any engines or cars.

To me the other big headache is the "scale" debacle in LS. It basicly falls into two "camps". Standard Guage railroads that operate big diesels, big steam engines, big passenger cars, the "classic" trains if you will. I call this the "Mainliner" camp. (Aristo/USA) The other camp is the "Narrow Guagers" who, like me, are modeling the narrow gauge railroads like the D&RG, East Broad Top, or other trains that ran on 3'0", 3'6", 2'6", or other slim rail lines (Bachmann).

The easiest thing for a begineer to do to make their live easier is consider what you want to model on your railroader, then go for it. Like the big diesels? sleak passanger cars? then go "Mainline" , like those funky Colorado type engines and those decrepid cars then go "Narrow", believe me it makes your life alot easier when you have a pretty good idea of what you want to do. I really recommend not mixing stuffscale wise because it really does look odd when you see a little narrow guage engine hauling around a huge streamline passenger car.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by vsmith

Thanks,

Once a few more posts have been made, I will gather the info and assemble a web site on this matter based on y'all's experience. [4:-)]

[Anonymous]

Do Aristo-Craft Structures work with Bachmann in terms of scale and if not, is it a reasonable discrepency?

[Anonymous]

On the subject of couplers. I have found that Aristo knuckle couplers are not compatible with Bachmann knuckle or USA knuckle couplers. If you are using Bachmann/USA type couplers and purchase a new Aristo piece, pick up a set of Bachmann/USA type couplers to replace the Aristo's. Doing this will keep your blood pressure at an acceptable and safe level.

Almost time to go out and start scrapping the earth. Can't wait!!

Respectfully, Peter

[grandpopswalt]

Hey Cappy,

You are one prolific writer! The issue of scale, or more correctly, the issue of lack of standardization of scale, within the Large Scale hobby is one that that has been raging for years and will probably never be settled. LGB is supposed to be 1:22.5 scale, Bachmann is 1:20, Aristocraft is 1:29 scale, there is also equipment scaled at 1:32 and 1:24. Even worse, within any given mfg's offerings are cars and locos who's prototype is standard gauge, while others are modeled after narrow gauge equipment, but they're all sold as though they were the same scale. The point is: mixing various brands, sometimes even within the same brand, will probably result in a sad looking train with no discernible pedigree. So be very careful what you buy. It's up to you to make sure all your stuff is compatible, both functionally and esthetically. As for track, most wheelsets will run fine on most track because the Gauge is absolute. Turnouts (switches) are another matter. Rule of thumb: if it looks like a toy (right angle turn) then it will probably operate like a toy. I've found that most sturctures are fairly generic. If it's not quite right for you, make the doors and windows a little smaller or larger and it will work just fine. In my opinion the best couplers are made by Kadee. They are scaled properly and allow prototypical switching operation. However they may not work well with other brands of couplers. You should standarize on one brand.

I love narrow gauge steam, so I looked at the various suppliers who offer a large variety of American prototype narrow gauge equipment, I've standardized on Bachmann because I consider their stuff to be the best value. Not always the best quality or fidelity to scale, but always reasonably priced and usually well made ( the cars at least). I find that the locos are usually pretty close to 1:20 but the cars are closer to 1:24. So, I kitba***he locos (you're more inclined to take a chance on cutting up a $100 loco than a $600 one) and make them a little lower and shorter thus making them closer to 1:24. All this is done because of the huge supply of 1:24 auto and truck models available, both diecast and plastic.

Bottom line ......... most equipment will probably work together reasonably well but it may not look right together, so be careful.

Walt

[Anonymous]

Thanks Grandpopswalt,

I am trying to soak up as much knowledge as I can before I begin my "permanent" layout which is still a while away due to budget. I can't afford to make costly mistakes and am very grateful to you and others for being there for me.

Kudos to Trains.com for providing forums of like-minded people who can network for the betterment of all. Yea for us! [4:-)]

[vsmith]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Capt Carrales

Do Aristo-Craft Structures work with Bachmann in terms of scale and if not, is it a reasonable discrepency?

Yes, Aristo's structure seam to be around 1/24 scale which will easily work with Bachmann. Remember only Bachmann's engines are 1/20.3: everything else, frieght cars, passenger cars etc are actually 1/22.5 so even they are pretty screwy scale wise. I am using PIKO and Kohler structures, 1/22.5 and they work OK on my 1/20.3~1/22.5 range layout (I'm not calling it an exact "scale" layout anymore as I dont relish scratchbuilding an "exact" 1/20.3 '56 Ford Pickup, so its now a 1/20.3~1/22.5 "range" layout.)

[Anonymous]

I am new to G Scale. I have LGB, Bachman, USA Trains, and AristoCraft rolling stock. I want knuckle couplers on all cars and engines.

The LGB design seems to mount the coupler about 1/2" higher than the other brands.

Has anyone else run into this problem and what is the solution.

I have posted this message in several other Model RR forums and no responses to date.

[Anonymous]

Hi all
I beg to differ with the gentalman that said if you use hook and loop you are pretty well right
My previouse post deals with trains running on LGB track with all mentioned brands running with there Hook an Loop coupling that is suposed to be compatable with LGB
The truth is many are not quite right the loop is reasonably ok but i have found that most non LGB hooks the uncoupling tail requiers cutting down so it will not foul on the insulated track and reverse loop conection boxes which LGB put between the rails.
They may well be OK on other brands of track but not LGB.the problem gets worse
when the rack rail is put in.
I now tend to be wary of this is manufacturer claims his stock is compatable with LGB
because more often it means if you don't have track isolations or reverse loop set or rack rail
regards John