Question about track joiners/clamps

[Anonymous]

I use both Hillmans and SplitJaw railclamps on my layout. Frankly, I don't see much difference between the two brands in either use or ease of installation. So, I buy whichever brand is cheaper (which is usually SplitJaw). I do prefer the larger screws on SplitJaw - I use them to attach track power leads.

Personally, I think the over the joiner rail clamps kind of defeat the purpose of using rail clamps. To maintain a good electrical connection between track sections, you need an airtight fit where the metal joins together. I just don't see how you can accompli***hat by using the stock rail joiner and then putting an over the joiner rail clamp on top.

Jon

[Anonymous]

As a retired battery guru, I would advise against adding them unless you have too, as in the long run you are just adding another worry and that is something we can all do without.


Ian

[TonyWalsham]

Add up the total cost of necessary railjoiners and you will be surprised how economical battery R/C starts to look.

Tony Walsham (RCS).

[grandpopswalt]

I'm with Marty on this subject. Go to battery power and float the track in ballast, end of story.

Walt

[Anonymous]

I started to use split jaw joiners and i like them, Ben

[cacole]

I've used both Split Jaw and Hillman, and think the Hillman clamps are a little easier to apply. There is really little difference between the two brands other than the size of the setscrews and hex wrench you need. I have used only AristoCraft track as much as possible, and rely on their built-in rail joiners and set screws. The only place I have needed Hillman or Split Jaw clamps is where track had to be cut to fit or when marrying up an LGB crossover to AristoCraft track, because LGB track doesn't have tapped holes in the rail. I run battery power only, so electrical continuity through the rail is of no concern to me.

[vsmith]

rail expansion and contraction can be a real bad problem if you A: have a very large layout with long straight sections where the rails expand by basicly pushing against the adjacent rail, and B: live is a region with WIDE 24hr tempurature swings like here, the deserts can go from 32 degrees at night to over 90 in the daytime. Even on the coastal side we can go from 50 to 90 in 12 hrs. That can reek havoc on a layout over time. its also why you always let the layout float on ballast is extreme range zones. Thats where these expanders really come into use. But if you have a mostly curved layout where the rails can pu***rack more side to side then the expanders are not needed so much, even in the desert areas.

[Anonymous]

I have some of those expainder rails that Rene mentions but I have had no real use for them. In this part of th world expansion and/or contraction is not a problem and from what i understand it is not the problem that some people think it is.

Rgds Ian

[Anonymous]

Rail clamps are like vehical preference, Split Jaw or Hillmans will do the job of holding the track together better than the clips that come with the track. That is important if you are using track power but for us live steamers and the battery people it is not necessary to use rail clamps.

Cheers,

[Rene Schweitzer]

John,

Since you mentioned expansion being an issue, Hillmans sells a relatively new product called the "Expandorail." It's a section of track designed to compensate for rail expansion. We did a review of it in the April 2003 issue (sorry, it's not online).

Rene

[Anonymous]

www.trackjoiners.com

[Anonymous]

Hi Blue,

I live in SW Houston not too far from the Astrodome. My layout is mostly finished and while it is not true to any theme and some of the purists on this board would cringe, my four year old loves it and we are having fun running trains around the backyard and that was the whole point of doing it.

John

[vsmith]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Ron Jones

whats best hillman or jaws

If your asking a personal opinion, Hillmans!

[Anonymous]

John

Where abouts in Houston?

[Anonymous]

I have never used jaws, but I loved him in James bond movies, he is my favourite villan.

But I have used alot od Hillman clamps and they have several different varieties for all sorts of situations; can't speek highly enough of them. They have a catalogue and they also have a website, try www.hillmanclamps or similar on Google. You will not have a problem with expansion, unless you have tremendous temperature variations and even then Richard Hillman has a clamp for that.

Jack Verducci writes for Kalmbach and I think he is very knowledgable, I have followed everything he has said and it has worked for me. Kalmbach have a book "Garden Railrioading" "Getting started in the Hobby" and its my bible. Jack and Marc Horovitz wrote many of the articles in it. They are both very sensible knowledgable blokes and their attitudes are logical and practical.


Regards


Ian; Kawana I T R.

If you don't really secure them you will have trouble with curves as you comne out of a straight, the force of a big loco at speed tends to pull those LGB clampos apart and even loosens the Aristo's a bit is well


Rgs


Ian Kawana etc.

[Anonymous]

whats best hillman or jaws

[Anonymous]

Marty asked how large a layout I had. It is about 150 feet. I am in Houston where it is hot and humid for months on end (the heat will begin next month and it will not end until October) so I suspect track expansion will be an issue. I tried the LGB conductive grease and in certain spots, I had electrical connectivity problems when I set up my layout last year. I am re-doing it beginning next month.

Vsmith, I loved the "Shepard's prayer", "'Oh Lord, Please don't let me #@%-up!...

Ian, thanks for your comments and taking the time to write. The electrical is over my head (although I may need to learn it again). I haven't been in electric shop since high school (many years ago).

Who is Jack Verducci? and is there a website? Thanks for the tip about the $3 Allen driver. That would be a big help. From your comments, our weather appears the same although at different times of the year.

My thanks to all who responded. I think I will buy some of each brand and see how it goes.

[Anonymous]

luv after market clamps but why are they soo frigin expensive...

[Anonymous]

I am a great fan of Jack verducci I think he is one of the best in the business and I have followed what he recommends and it works for me in a hot highly humid environment.

Removed all rail joiners on points (switches) and only use Hillman clamps direct on the rail none of this over the top stuff you are just looking for trouble.

Clean all rails and joiners thoroughly and solder them, this is easy with a jewelers gas torch, it takes a bit of practice at first not to melt the sleepers (ties) but after a while its is easy.

It is best to do all this when the track is new but when the track is old and this is my own idea, I soak the ends in white vinegar, the cheaper the better. Then remove as much as possible and rinse it in clean cold water then again remove as mucgh as possible.

To solder I flood the rails and joiners where i want to solder with a liquid flux (don't use paste) I use Bakers fluid.The I heat the rail and joiner evenly from the opposite side the which I am going to solder. Then when the solder melts into the joint just a smidgen once it starts running.

This not only gets rid of all joiner problems as far as conductivity is concerned but improves their mechanical strength out of sight. I have not had a single problem with anything to do with this for several years.

Conductivity is imortant for the best reticulation of power to your layout and it is measured in Mho's which the opposite to Ohm's for resisteance and i have cut mine down to about 44 millimhos per 10 metres (33') of track.

The old bogey of expansion problems is not applicable unless as some of the guys do have a big temperature range to deal with, high temperature is no problem as we have had over 40 degrees C here during the last mnth or so and it has just got under 20 dg C for the first time since last September.

I asked Hillman about tropical use of their stuff and they asured me it is ok however several of my Hillman clamps are developing an odd green growth on them Incidentally they have a yellow handled Allen key device (costs $3) that is the best thing since sliced bread. They also have expansion clamps other specialised clamps that are a big help.

Regards.

Ian; Kawana Island Tropical Railway.

[vsmith]

John

I have used both, both work equally well but I've been using Hillmans, they install a bit easier for my situation. Split jaws are also good but trying to install the clamp can be a bit maddening as you have to screw down each side individually and this can be a little tough if the track is already down.

with split-jaws, the joiner can be installed to the rails prior to laying so they have the advantage if your just starting, both use a different size hex driver to install. Be sure to use a little LGB conductive grease at each clamp, it helps condutivity and helps keep water and grit out of the joint.

If your using LGB track why not just use the conductive grease and a wad of those plastic tie joiners? LGB connectors are usually pretty good on their own, if not, both Hillman and Split Jaw sell joiners designed to clamp right over the existing joiner, tighten the screws and you get a really solid joint.

I have Aristo straights and curves and use the set screws and grease for most connections, i use the clamps at turnouts which are LGB. the turnouts should be easily removed hence the clamps. Also these clamps can be pricey so you should look at where you need them and how many you'll need.

[Marty Cozad]

John, How much track are you talking about? I went through all that ,then changed to battery with factory railjoiners. Just a thought.

[smcgill]

I have the USA track and just used the clamps given with screw and didn't have to much trouble!The layout is not small /not large! Sorry I can't answer the right question!

[Anonymous]

I have done some research into clamps. I found two brands, Hillman's and Split Jaw. Does anyone have a preference and reason?

I also see that there are clamps that fit over the rail joiners and others that require the joiner to be removed. I have a lot of LGB track and removing the joiners will take some effort, but I want track that will have good electrical conductivity.

Thanks