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My guess is to set it up for tighter curves you probably have to remove the flanges from the center two sets of drivers. I had an HO consolidation modified the same way. By the way is there a spell checker on this board I am missing?
Steve
Moscow Steve wrote: By the way is there a spell checker on this board I am missing? Steve
NO but there is a "paste from word" button. You should be able to spell check there.
Tom Trigg
two tone wrote:Hi Lechee, WHY O WHY do you want to spoil a good loco by trying to make it do smaller curves. This loco os designed for R3 curves and turn outs. IF you change it you will screw up any warranty and this type of loco on small curves over hangs the track and looks bad. Just my comments from one who runs 2-8-0s
Two:
'Why O why...' Let me count the reasons: It'll go around tighter curves. I, as prob'ly a lone voice in the colonies, subscribe to the notion that, if you can make it do what you want, go for it. (I mean NO insult--just a difference of opinion). I am an admirer of the work you Brits have done with 45mm, not to mention other gauges. And windups. I am a fan of Peter Jones, and our own Cabbage--who is accessable. 'Nuf said on the positive.
I have a boxful of seriously dead B'manns. I look on them as 'potential projects', one of which is to make 'em go around 18" curves. No, seriously, I want to articulate one. The challenge to do so is enticing. Anybody can run one on the radii designed. Well, most.
To do so, I've researched (admittedly while looking for other information) and found that NG lines put 'extra rails' on tight curves to 'give blind drivers something to run on'.
This hobby is filled with possiblities. The B'mann is ah ... rife with possiblities.
Les
I don't know as it was a post or thread, but, if you remove the end of the loco (deck plate, beam, two screws, I think), make a longer drawbar and forget any kind of front coupler, it will do 1100 curves.
It looks bad, doesn't like it, but will do it.
Has anyone ever actually articulated one of these? Figuring out how to power both sets of drivers would be the tricky part, seems to me.
Just make it a 0-6-0 then.......
Toad
An articulated, all-drivers-same-size-connected 0-6-0? Wouldn't that look a tad strange? You'd need a set of connecting rods with little hinges in the middle, right? For the single pair? I don't think that'd be very prototypical. Hmm. I think you hit on a great idea, Toadster. Yes, I do.
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