Edging ever nearer to beginning my layout, here's a few questions that I'd like opinions on.
First, it will be indoor, PP, F scale, 45mm ga, DC rail control, open benchwork style, somewhat modular due to 3 windows access (for wintering over wife's outdoor plants) U-shape, ca 1875, roughly 22' x 12' room size. Local block control. Probably about a maximum width anywhere of 40".
1) What's a reasonable/average height off the floor? I'm 5'10" & getting shorter.
2) What's a reasonable width? If I go narrow(er) on one or both legs of the 'U', perhaps I can squeeze in a center island. (A single track only). It could be quite narrow. 12-18". I'd particularly like to hear from anyone who's tried this arrangement. I suspect I'll have to build at least half, and see what it looks like. Things can get crammed up very easily, but all I need is to be able to walk, turn around, in the aisles. This is pushing my physical prowess to near its limits.
2a) Aisles. Single operator per aisle, max 2 operators.
3) If no island, then a reasonable width for an old, stiff guy whose six-pack abs have morphed into a single keg. NO STRETCHING. No access holes. Definitely no tippytoe. Probably will make indents for reaching into back corners.
Lastly, because this is iffy to the max, but has anyone done a dual level in LS, ala the HO modeler folk? Particularly a lower level. It'd have to incorporate a switchback because I doubt a helix (spiral) would fit anywhere. Or, has anyone done a non-connected upper/lower level?
I'm not looking for absolute measurements, but a general notion of what worked for you and what didn't.
Thanks, Les
Les:
In one mans opinion (and that is like the old saying "opinions are like , everybody has one".) Your questions are followed by my response.
What's a reasonable/average height off the floor? I'm 5'10" & getting shorter.
Are you going to be standing or sitting on a stool, or both? When I did N scale, years back I found it to most comfortable when I hit a medium between elbow height when sitting and elbow height when standing.
What's a reasonable width?
How far can you reach without crushing something with your grand physic?
Aisles. Single operator per aisle, max 2 operators.
That is a combination of personal preference and available floor space. If you run on a peninsula then you can easily double the "reach rule" because you now have two sides to reach from. When computing "reach width" include consideration of the reach ability of the second operator. Is she/he taller or shorter than you? Do they have longer or shorter arms?
If no island, then a reasonable width for an old, stiff guy
Again, I ask, "how far can you reach?" When I have put something just out of easy reach, both indoor N and HO and outdoor G, that is exactly where I spend the most time reaching to. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to be sarcastic when I say keep it within comfortable reach. The exact height and width restrictions of which I speak will be based upon your body size. If you stand 5 foot 4 inches with a shirtsleeve of 22 inches, or you are 6 foot 7 inches tall with a 34-inch sleeve will have significant barring on this issue. (I know you said you are 5-10, I just use these measurements to make the point.) Do you have any fuzzed vertebrae? Do you have arthritis? Do you have a stiff elbow or "trick" elbow? These are questions you will need to answer to yourself as you determine "reasonable reach".
has anyone done a non-connected upper/lower level?
I have done both connected double level (N scale) and non-connected levels (HO scale). In that case I would suggest putting the lower level at elbow height when sitting in a wooden chair, and the second level at eye level while sitting in that chair. In this case I would suggest reducing the width of "comfortable reach" by 25 percent on the upper level. This adds in the required provision for "anti-head-knocking." I cracked the old noggin several times for about a dozen stitches before I figured that one out.
I hope this very vague answer helps at leaset a little bit.
Tom Trigg
Tom,
Thanks for the observations. I found the mention of 'bad back' a good one, and the 'setback' for the possible 2nd deck. And yeah, I've got a couple of bum shoulders--lucky so far they elect to hurt and stiff up on different days.
I threw the notion of the double deck in as almost an afterthought, but the more I pick around the edges of it, the better I like the idea, because I could go with a real post-1900 era light rail setup, which I've always liked. They wouldn't have to be connected either physically (with track) or in the same time frame.
Les
Thats close to the size of my area, 19'6 x 10' but I'm limited to 3 sides only. I wish I had one more side or another 10 feet of lenth to do what I really want, Oh well!
Mine is 42" off the floor, I have bike storage requirement underniegth but I find it a nice height to work at, but the higher you go the more reach issues you will have. My old layout was 36" high, that was OK also, but this time I wanted something a little more eye-level.
For areas where you need to reach switches or uncouple car I wouldnt go any wider the you can easily reach, about 24" is best but 36" can be done with yoga classes. You can go wider where you have less or no reach requirements, mine has a two spots on the turnarounds where its over 4 feet across, I just kept switches and such out of those areas and know if I have to I might need to step on the layout to reach these areas, so the deck of my layout is all plywood.
I'm a shelf type around-the-wall layout but I would be uncomfortable with less than 24" W aisles. On my old layout I had one small aisle that was 14" wide, very tight and not recommended.
Err...24" aisle? 36" aisle is better and then and no higher up than 40-42" on the deck
Sorry no help there, you could use a helix in R1, but you'd be restricting your rolling stock. I find one level quite a challange myself.
Have fun with your trains
The Home of Articulated Ugliness
Hi Les
Well I suffer from ducks disease as well.
I use 3 feet from floor to what I call the 0 point of the layout ie the lowest level that will have track all other dimensions I take as above or below 0, scenery looks best if it goes above and below the tracks.
Your bench work should not be wider than you can reach if you are into extreme model railroading then go for 3 feet wide maximum, track to the front scenery to the back it can be reached for construction on a step stool if necsasary.
Acsess ways should not be any narrower than 2 feet.
I think you would be better using a switch back to conect levels rather than nothing no idea where you will fit the devils nose though
regards John Busby
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