Will g-scale code 250 track work with code 332 track

[railroader21]

I was wondering if you could mix different codes of track together such as code 250 and code 332.

Any help will be appreciated.

[DennisB]

    Code 250 is very easily bent and smaller than 332. Not really a good idea. Not really the wisest thing to try. Dennis

[ttrigg]

Blending of track of different weights CAN be done. My personal recommendation would be to do it only where it makes visual sense to do so, like joining a "light weight" branch line or spur to a heavy weight mainline. An example would be when joining a trolley/street car line to your main service main line. In that case it make a visually appealing layout, especially if the light rail has significantly different tie spacing. Give a look at either Hilmann's Rail Clamps or Split Jaw Rail Clamps. I'm sure you will find what you need to do the job between the two brands, both are very reliable connectors (both reliable businesses and reliable physical and electrical connections.)

[Anonymous]

Connecting, yes they can connect.

Good link: http://www.btcomm.com/trains/special_offers/track/track.htm

Toad

[ttrigg]

One thing I forgot about is wheel flange. Some brands of cars and engines have flanges too large to smoothly operate on code 250 rail. I don't recall which brand it is, but a bit of research on this site will get you to that particular conversation. As best as I can remember, there are some wheel sets out there that have flanges so large that they will bump over the plastic "tie plates' molded onto the ties, causing a lot of derailments.

[kstrong]

Sorry, I've got to disagree with some of the sentiments relative to code 250 track. I've been using it in one form or another for 15 years, and have never had an issue with it that wouldn't also apply to code 332 rail.

1) Yes, it is a smaller profile rail, thus likely more prone to damage when twisted the wrong way. However, when properly installed on a solid roadbed (as every track regardless of rail size should be) it will be quite sturdy. While I don't make a habit of it, I can walk on my code 250 rail without worry. Rail material also comes into play. It's plausible that code 250 brass or stainless rail would be stronger than code 332 aluminum. I've never tested that theory.

2) Flanges only cause a problem when the distance from the top of the spike detail to the railhead is smaller than the depth of the flange. Unless you're using a code 250 track with exceptionally tall spike detail, this won't be an issue. The three major code 250 track suppliers--Llagas, Sunset Valley, and AMS--all have very low-profile spike details, so there's easily .2" worth of room. The deepest flange I've ever encountered in large scale is .150", and most are under .125" (1/8")--even the "deep" Aristo flanges. I'm not discounting the possibility that somewhere, there may be the odd piece of equipment with ridiculously deep flanges, but 99.9% of what's out there now will not have an issue. When you get into the smaller codes (215, 197) then flange depth becomes more of a concern.

What you do run into with code 250 is that the flanges are more prone to hit the ballast if it's piled up above the top of the ties. But after a few go-arounds, the flanges will knock away any errant ballast, and you'll be fine. Often, I'll grab my wife's eggliner to "clear the line" so to speak before an operating session on the railroad. Its flanges push away any ballast that's splattered up next to the rails, and by the time I've got the switches cleared and the rolling stock out, it's smooth sailing all the way around.

Later,

K

[Dick Friedman]

Kevin is correct.  Besides, he's been around G railroading for a while, so he's probably made more mistakes and corrected them than most of us.

 Let's start by just answering the man's question.  Yes, you can use code 250 and code 332 rail with joiners as stated.

On the issue of depth, I've been using nearly every manufacturer's wheels on my Llagas Creek code 250 aluminum rail.  No problems with rail and flanges.  Have bumped some ballast out of the way, but not a problem.

Use the smaller rail whenever possible if it looks good to you.  

A lot of garden railroading is like Davey Crockett said, "Be sure you're right, and then go ahead."  But remember that "right" is in the eye of the owner of the railroad.

[on30francisco]

 Yes, you can use both. Split Jaw makes adapter clamps to join them together. As far as deep flanges are concerned, you shouldn't have any problems. Heck, LGB's equipment runs on code 215 from Llagas Creek with no problems.