LGB insulated track question

[two tone]

Hi   I use LGB powered points/turnouts plus the unit for making the track dead p/n 12070 +10260 The unit tells you how to wire it. So direction of travel is live only instead of both frogs live.    Hope this helps saves a lot of running round the back yard tripping switches.    PS I use the train engineer to control my layout

[Camaro1967]

I have two sidings wired like this.  What I did is Insulate one track in the siding, leaving the other one hot.  Then run a wire from the same track in the mainline to the insulated track, with a toggle switch in between. You can control whether the siding is hot or not, just by making the insulated track hot. 

I use this for a second train, run the second train off the siding onto the mainline while the first train is pulling onto the siding. When everybody has cleared the track switches, I flip the toggle switch off, to kill power to the siding, thereby stopping the train on the siding. Once you wire it up, you can easily test it just with engines.  

Paul

[m2RR]

Thanks very much for the answer!

glad to be onboard this informative forum!!!

[Snoq. Pass RR]

First off - Welcome

Second, I do not have any experience with track power (I run battery RCS).  The only thing I can say is that 1015U will allow power to run down the non-insulated track while 1015T does not. It seems that 1015U is ment for stops while 1015T is ment for reversing loops.

[m2RR]

i'm new to the forum, and new to building a garden railroad. i was wondering what the differences are between using the single insulated track (1015 U) and the double insulated track (1015 T)?

i am planning on creating 2 sections of track that can be turned off. one section is going to be a station turnoff and the other will be a dead end with an illuminated bumper.

any help on what i will need to get will be much appreciated!

thanks!!