I had the same problem with my LGB Forney pictured below. One day it was running fine, and the next, nothing but sound. There could be multiple causes, some easier to fix than others. In the case of my locomotive, it was a major problem.
If the wheels are locked, I tend to believe that you have motor problems. Gears grinding - possible the wheels have gotten out of alignment and need to be adjusted.
First, check for easy fixes. Clean the wheels. Open the gear box up and clean out debris/ excess grease. See about realigning the wheels (the instruction manual will show you how). After that, let us know what happens. If it still will not run, let me know and I can help you out. Michael
My Forney was working great and then it just quit. No grinding sounds and the wheels turned freely. As I found out later, the motor brushes had worn out and it needed a whole new motor. Pictured below is the major overhaul, but I must say that it now runs like new. I hope that your problem will be an easier fix.
Works great after the new motor was installed.
http://www.haworthengineering.com/
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Now that I read your post again, it seems most like the wheels are binding. I attached a picture of an LGB manual explaining how to align the wheels. The grey box on the third column says,
"During assembly when the coupling rod is screwed onto the crankshaft, it is VITALLY important to make sure the coupling rod does not bind at any wheel position. This would otherwise inevitably cause poor driving quality and may even destroy the gear."
It is possible that the wheels could have fallen out of alignment. Turn the locomotive upside down and manually turn the wheels. If it does in fact bind up, remove the plate from the bottom of the loco. Gently lift the wheel in question from the gear and rotate so that when the two wheels turn together, they do not bind.
This should help out. Let us know the results, Michael
(You can copy/paste the picture to a program like microsoft publisher and zoom in to read the manual)
MRH,
I need clarification on turning wheels by hand. I've always been of the notion that with a multi stage gear train, a tremendous back-torque is induced on one or more of the gears, particularly the shaft gear of the motor, usually a spiral-cut. (Worm gear). The newer polymer gears seem more prone to failure that way than the old metal ones. Am I all wet?
Les W.
I agree with you that it is probably not a wise idea to push your locomotives around the track. However, you are not putting tremendous amounts of force on the gears during maintenance.
The main thing that I was refering to in my first reply was about the motor. LGB locos usually have free turning dive wheels unless the motor is burnt up. I have taken apart several moguls with burnt motors. If the smell won't give it away, the locked up wheels will.
The second post is all about alignment. Nothing will put more stress on the gears than improper alignment. As soon as the locomotive starts binding up, the gears start to strip. I believe turning the wheels three to four times to make sure there is no binding will not hurt the loco.
I hope this will clarify my post. Michael
Buy a new one or check for parts and then you have the buzz which maybe a motor then if all else fails see the 1st part of my sentance.
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