Initial stainless steel track layout.

[jhsimpson62]

Byron, Yes I use Conductive grease on all joints. I use "NOALOX" made by Ideal corp. and get it at Lowes in the electical section. It is listed as an "anti-oxidant joint compound. This is the third season for the current layout. Previously I had a layout in Pennsylvania for six years. Each spring when touching up ballast I also check each screw and tighten as necessary. I haven't installed any jumpers around the switches....Jack

[spikejones52002]

I used the copper color greese.

Then I used a OHM meter and found INF reading on a glob of copper colored greese. So the greese does not conduct at all. Then I used "Neverseze" on the screws only. 

My layout has been outside sense 2001. I hve not run jumpers. I do go along my track and spin the allen wrench between my fingers to check the screws. I find both loose and very tight screws.

At first I retapped all my rail with 2/56. They had deeper socket heads. Now I immediated remove all of Aristo's joiners and replace with Split Jaw.

[EMPIRE II LINE]

OK JH and DW,

Do either of you use any conductive grease on your joints at all?? If so whose do you use ??

And how long or how many seasons has yours been up and running with no noticable problems now ?? That is with just using the Aristo rail joiners....

Do you also take the time to put jumper wires across the Aristo switches, due to the cheap little wires ??

I chose to go with the Split-Jaw clamps, because of all the problems I formerly had using the factory clamps and screws, now mind you that was on Br-*** track though, not stainless.

I even drilled and tapped into the LGB track and installed the screws in every joint , but still had problems with continuity within a few seasons...What a pain that was.....

I wanted to play it safe  for this time around......

Byron C.   

[dwbeckett]

You're right in choosing stainless steel track. After building two layouts with an excess of 500 feet of track, I see no need for the expense of "Split Jaws" rail joiners except at switches or any place cutting a section of track is required. It makes removing the switch for maintainence really easy. At 65 and a trifocal wearer for years, I doubt that I have loss more than a half dozen joiner screws over the years. If you know where you want the spur, but don't want it now, use split jaws on one end of the section of track to be removed for the switch. Although I didn't, I just made the cut in the middle of the section and removed the jointer at the one end and inserted the switch with split jaws all around. The guage is a bit confusing, but basically  the space between the rails on "G" guage track remains constant, so in 1:32 scale it equates to the modern day "standard guage" track (about 4' 8'' between the rails) that same spacing in 1.22.5 scale is "narrow guage" (about 3')

I agree I've only lost a few screws myself, the rest I've lost were due to BUGS eatting the wax  and hot summer day's. I remove them now and put in a spill resistent container. Wax removel from the screw's is easy I use a long tiped ligher and let flame do the work. COOL BEFORE USE

Dave, still no layout

This all so works with Aristo Brass Track   

[jhsimpson62]

You're right in choosing stainless steel track. After building two layouts with an excess of 500 feet of track, I see no need for the expense of "Split Jaws" rail joiners except at switches or any place cutting a section of track is required. It makes removing the switch for maintainence really easy. At 65 and a trifocal wearer for years, I doubt that I have loss more than a half dozen joiner screws over the years. If you know where you want the spur, but don't want it now, use split jaws on one end of the section of track to be removed for the switch. Although I didn't, I just made the cut in the middle of the section and removed the jointer at the one end and inserted the switch with split jaws all around. The guage is a bit confusing, but basically  the space between the rails on "G" guage track remains constant, so in 1:32 scale it equates to the modern day "standard guage" track (about 4' 8'' between the rails) that same spacing in 1.22.5 scale is "narrow guage" (about 3')

[spikejones52002]

Yes Use Split Jaw clamps.

After a couple attempts to use Aristo's tiny screws you will know the joy of Split Jaw.

Even with the best of eyes You will have a problem lining up and starting the tiny screw. You will lose more than half of them. You can not use a magnet to retrieve them.

If you add a siding. Now you have to remove the section of track and attempt to drill and tap the holes in the proper place.

With Split Jaw all you do is cut. Remove a tie or two and slip the Split Jaw in place.

Suggestion when you use Split Jaw. Obtain a straight allen wrench that is about 6 inches long with a handle.

Then just spin it between two fingers. That will be tight enough.

I will insure you after using Split jaw just once you will not go back.

[timd]

I am planning my first train layout. It is an oval track about 90' in length going around a waterfall.  From reading the forums, the concensus is to use stainless steel considering the current market.  I would like suggestions regarding proper connections--i.e. do I need to use split jaw connectors or use the track as they come.  I will probably be using the Aristo-craft track.  Can I (easily) add a spur and switches later of should I do that with the initial setup. The spur will be about 10-15' in length.  I still don't understand standard vs narrow gauge tracks. Will all the G scales trains run on both? I am planning to use ~1/22.5 scale.