I am not making the book office car after all. Since my cars won't match the real Talyllyn coaches (I have raised panels instead of raised trim boards) and my paint scheme isn't theirs, my coaches will be uniquely mine. If I do build a more accurate train of Talyllyn coaches, I will build a proper prototypical booking office car too.
Modeling the D&H in 1984: http://dandhcoloniemain.blogspot.com/
Hi Benjamine Maggi
Interesting are you going to have a go at the booking office guards van at a later date.
Are you aware of the peculiarity on those coaches in that both sides are identical but it only has working doors on one side I have forgoten why HM inspecorate came up with that one.
Are you going to do the same, or treat them as a more normal coach with doors on both sides.
I think using very tiny bolts is going to be the way to go for fixing your axel boxes the foot board will help hide whats going on.
Not falling apart is definatly the way to go
regards John Busby
John,
Yes, I am aware the springs go on top. I was trying to describe what I was building as if I had flipped the chassis upside-down. From the axle box to the top of the casting (where the springs are) is 15mm, and I plan on using Bachmann's small metal wheels (diameter: 12.25mm)
I did think about drilling out the top (by the springs) of the casting and running small screws threw it and the L-angle too. Since there will be a footboard, and since I don't think people will be focusing on that area of the coach, and since I would rather they not fall apart even if it means seeing a screw, I might end up going that way.
I designed the coach myself and have been discussing them on another online forum. Here is a link to it should you want to know more about them: http://www.gscalemad.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=14435
Thanks for your help!
You are aware the frame sits on top of the spring??
The easiest way to deal with the hight problem is to use a deeper frame or smaller wheel.
you might have to screw or bolt the axel boxes to the frame if using plastic for a frame epoxy & a lot of the super glues don't stick to plastic very well for some reason.
If your coach plan calls for coach steps runing the full length of the coach the wide frame will not be that noticable.
What coaches are you making ?? there is more than one type of UK 4wh coach
That's a tough one. Hopefully the madders can help. You might be able to solder on some thin brass bar stock on the back side to mount to your frame if there is enough clearance between your bearing and wheel. Also you might be able to epoxy in some small pins on the ends of the leaf springs.
-Brian
I purchased a bunch of Ozarks Miniatures British style journal boxes and am not sure how to use them. (http://www.ozarkminiatures.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=1096)
I am building some British-outline 2-axle coaches in 45mm gauge, and thought these would work well. Unlike the "American" style ones that overlap the side sills and extend below it to the axle box, these don't. As they are not as tall as the American ones I am used to, I have two problems.
Problem #1. I need to make them "taller" to clear the wheel diameter. Imagine the train cars upside down. Now, the castings are so short between the molded axle box and the top of the casting that if I were to use them as is the wheel rims would cut into the floor. Since I was planning on using 3/8" ABS tubing for the side frames, this will work out fine. If I mount the axle box onto that, it will provide enough clearance for my wheels.
Problem #2. I don't think epoxy along between the ABS tubing sideframe joint and the top edge of the casting, alone, will be strong enough. I have toyed with a possible solution: if I cut a piece of L-angle and attach to the underside of the car, it could extend down and attach to the back of the journal casting. It would only be wide to hide behind the axle portion of the casting itelf, and from the outside would not be seen. I would drill a hole in it for the axle to pass through. I would need to adjust the casting spacing accordingly to account for the extra thickness of two pieces of L-bracing, but since my small Bachmann wheels have long axle ends and I planned to put in some side-to-side wheel play anyways, it shouldn't be a problem.
What do you guys think?
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