Sorry guys, my explaination wasn't clear. Using the term 1600 track, an early term used by both LGB and Aristo, I meant to include 8' dia. curves and switches with 8' dia. curved frogs in a simple statement.
I do have an Aristo 2-8-2, I'm modifiying to actual Espee, and it does require 8' dia. min. curves, but looks much better on 10' to 20' dia. curves. Just wanted to help modelers avoid an "If I'd only known".
Rob
vsmith wrote: R1 has become the ugly stepchild in large scale although there are still alot of us happily using them, just dont ever plan on purchasing a Aristo Mikado or a Dash-9.
On the bridge to the top of my waterfall htere is an "S" curve where I "tightened up" a pair of R1's to about R0.85's. Now with the recent release of 20 and 31 inch curves, I'm sure someone will produce a turnout. It would take a bunch of work and parts replacement to convert an LGB R1 to the tighter curves.
Tom Trigg
Suggestion, buy a rail bender then rail and nail it down. It is like kitbashing rail!
Toad
lownote wrote: LGB 1600 series--R3 curves. Eight foot radius I believe. The LGB 16050 and 16051 match it. If you really want the small radius curves, LGB 1200 series switches are very good. But a lot of locomotives won't go through them I don't know of a Wye switch that small
LGB 1600 series--R3 curves. Eight foot radius I believe. The LGB 16050 and 16051 match it.
If you really want the small radius curves, LGB 1200 series switches are very good. But a lot of locomotives won't go through them
I don't know of a Wye switch that small
R3's are 8' diameter
Have fun with your trains
Your not going to find ANYTHING less than 12" in lenth unless you build it yourself, this is the standard lenth of a typical LGB 12000 series switch for their 4' diameter (better known as R1) track, same for USA and Aristo switches for their 4' dia. track, Piko also will be selling soon (according to their catalog) a 12000 clone switch, AND surprisingly a R1 WYE switch!
But they wont be cheap, Piko track is already very expensive (cheap dollar and premium pricing) so if cash is an issue, consider used track on Ebay, R1 has become the ugly stepchild in large scale although there are still alot of us happily using them, just dont ever plan on purchasing a Aristo Mikado or a Dash-9.
What is it your planning to do? A little more info always helps
g. gage wrote:Unless you are planning to use short cars and small locomotives I would suggest using larger dia. curves and switches, it's worth the extra cost. In sectional track that would be at least number 1600 track.Good luck, have fun.Rob
Unless you are planning to use short cars and small locomotives I would suggest using larger dia. curves and switches, it's worth the extra cost. In sectional track that would be at least number 1600 track.
Good luck, have fun.
What's number 1600 track?
-Brian
There are no small wyes and small switches will only work with 4 foot diameter track. What track are you using?
I am looking for one left switch, one right switch, and two wyes all 12" or smaller in length and that arent too exspensive. Im just a little confused with all of todays manufacturers.
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