I copied this over from a posting I did elsewhere -
My glue listLiquid Nails / PL adhesives - I use the heavy duty LN for reinforcing joints on large buildings. I use the PL landscape block adhesive for gluing together hardibacker board for buildings. I use Foamboard LN for gluing foam boards.Loctite PowerGrab (exterior) - I use this for adhering plastic veneers to foam board or hardibacker. Very easy to use and fills gaps well. Easy water clean up.Household GOOP - I use this stuff for all sorts of things. Its especially good for quick, touch up building repairs.DAP Clear Flexible Sealant - Its kind of a cross between silicone and GOOP with no stringiness. I used this the first time recently to adhere a corrugated aluminum roof to it coroplast sub roof. I really liked this product and will be using it more.Ambroid ProWeld / Plastruct Bondene - Both are plastic welding reagents. They work and set fast (10 secs.) fast. They can melt or warp thin plastic is used in excess. These make very strong joints. I used the for plastic structures and rolling stock kitbashes. Plastruct PlasticWeld works equally well with a longer set time of around 30 seconds.Cyanoacrylates - I typically only use these for gluing on detail parts or bonding metal to plastic. I keep bottles of thin and thicker gap filling around. I also keep a bottle out at the layout for quick repairs of bits that fall off of rolling stock.Epoxies - I use lots of 5 minute epoxy. I use it for reinforcing joints on plastic structures and reinforcing structural pieces on rolling stock kitbashes. I really like the Hobby Lobby brand. I was disappointed with a recent purchase of the Loctite brand as the set time is more like 10 minutes. I do like Loctite 5 minute metal/concrete epoxy for sticking together small metal pieces.Phenoseal Vinyl Adhesive Caulk -Another product I really like. Its good gluing on cedar shingles and for gluing in plastic veneer windows and doors in wood structures. It comes in white and translucent (sort of clear). Easy water clean up.Titebond II and III -Both have worked well for me. I use type II for gluing exterior wood where the joint is not directly exposed to the elements. I use type III for the exposed joints.That's most of them.-Brian
ToadFrog WhiteLightn wrote: Ok, time to give up what glue you use and what for. Now you can just list the glue and simple what for. Also nice where you get yours???? Toad
Plastic: WM brand generic superglue, 4 tubes for a buck, AND #4x3/8 wood screws from HD.
wood: TightBond II/III from HD, and #4x3/8~3/4 brass wood screws (HD), brads via air gun (HD).
real wood shingles, corregated rooffing: liquid nails (HD/WM).
attaching wood to plastic: Marine GOOP sealant (HD)
Tom Trigg
Ok, time to give up what glue you use and what for. Now you can just list the glue and simple what for. Also nice where you get yours????
Toad
Information.....for the others
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