Steve,
How long you been weathering?? Looks Sweetttt......
Toad
Hi Toad. I actualy posted the pic in the wrong forum. The engine was just shot on a diplay outside. Here is a G scale B&O Mallet I just did.
Steve C.
Interesting thread Mr. Toad.
There are some nicely weathered models being done here I see. I don't have any dirty or weathered stock: the road bosses just don't allow it.
I guess if I were to attempt weathering the end product would resemble a fire damage sale.
Actually I'm the only weathered item around these parts.
Alan, Oliver & North Fork Railroad
https://www.buckfast.org.uk/
If you don't know where you are going, any road will take you there. Lewis Carroll English author & recreational mathematician (1832 - 1898)
Welcome! Looking good to me!
You running 3 rail out side? If so how long and how is it going?
Steve
Santa Fe,
WOW, very nice for other scale! Talk about realism, I could not tell if it had any rust on it but it dang sure was dirty (normal looking).
http://clcotrains.embarqspace.com/stuffpage
Not G scale, but...
My first weathered loco. The 2 pics to the right of the conrail loco.
Very nice job with that D&RGW reefer
Okay this isnt exactly weathering more of just detailing but whatever I wanna post somthing in here too
Before : D&S 4-6-0 179 from Bachmann Durango & Silverton freight set
After... I painted all of the brass railings black, added the plow, added Ozark marker lights, smoke stack (with homemade spark arrestor) headlight visor and Rectangular number plate. Swapped the silver tender trucks out for a black pair, repositioned the tender light (that got a visor too) the coal load I removed and painted flat black then while the paint was still wet I dumped a cup of ground up coal on it reinstalled it on the tender and then dumped a couple cups of that ground up coal on it again so the whole tender is dusty looking now... I guess thats sorta weathered lol if anything it makes the rivits stand out more
Mr_Ash wrote:I did some "okay" weathering when I was into HO many years ago IDK where to start with large scale what kind of stuff do you guys use for basic weathering?
Same stuff as the smaller scales only in lager quantities. I don't think there is any special trick to the large scale weathering except that it is larger and therfore you should be more prototype minded when laying down the dirt and rust. Be attentive to color and location as it will have the magic "looks right/ wrong" perceptions the larger the model becomes. Less is more so don't overdo it.
The Dixie D Short Line "Lux Lucet In Tenebris Nihil Igitur Mors Est Ad Nos 2001"
Ok you asked for it.
Related or not you asked for it. This is the infamous rocket car from the Great Forum Build Off in mid-weathering.
EMPIRE II LINE wrote:Well Dave, That does look interesting there, Just curious, where do you find all the time to do these projects ? Also, what exactly is 7/8 scale, is it about like "O" scale. Give me something to compare to.Byron
Well Dave,
That does look interesting there, Just curious, where do you find all the time to do these projects ?
Also, what exactly is 7/8 scale, is it about like "O" scale. Give me something to compare to.
Byron
Byron,
I posted this pic in the thread on my rail truck over in the scratch n bash section.
7/8n2 rail truck on left 1:24 truck on right
http://www.grblogs.com/index.php/7-8n2projects/?blog=25
-Brian
Hi
7/8 or SE is 7/8" represents 1 foot. THere's standard gauge 7/8, which is large enough to ride on, and the more common 7/8n2 and 7/8n18.
7/8n2 uses 45 mm track (commonly used by US garden railroaders) and represents 2' gauge (like the 2' gauge in Maine and many railways around the world).
7/8n18 uses 32mm track (O gauge) and represents 18" gauge (there are a number of 18" gauge railways, mostly industrial, all over the world. Some were construction in US).
here's my rusty rails and rusty skip experiments
Stringing wire from Lowe’s through the tubes (4 strand braided 20 gauge wire).
Since the rails are solid, I had to invent a new connector. I used a metal tie, flattened the prongs, sliced it in half, flipped it upside down, then using the pliers, I bent together the edges of the tie so the rails are secure. Solder is optional.Here’s my escape I constructed for 32mm and 45mm. I’m 99% done with the escape at the other end. The reason for multigauge is to get both gauge tracks across a 30+ foot concrete arch bridgeHere’s a tipper I did a while back. To get the rusty effect, I tore the edges to make them jagged and spray painted black and rust together so the colors merged. This one is resin-cast.on Saturday I made a new tipper using a completely different technique. Instead of resin in the squish mold (2 RTV molds forced together), I squired PL construction adhesive into the mold and pressed together.I developed an additional painting technique for this bucket (which will be part of a skip like 1st photo). I did the same paint technique then waited 10 minutes. While the skip was still tacky, I dribbled dried clay (red and yellow) that I got from my backyard (which is mostly rocks and clay). The tiny particles embedded into the tacky paint. I rubbed them in different directions with my finger to get patternsconstruction adhesive used to make the skip and used to squirt inside the 027 rail (where the braided wire was inserted). The rails are now sturdy enough to step on without collapsing!Here’s what an 027 rail looks like after 3 years, nasty, ugly, horrible; just the effect I’m looking for as I lay rails that rust.the flowers are bloominBB definitely has that up to no good look in her eyeswhile the ribs are cooking beside the railroad tracks, the hound’s tongue is hanging out with dribbles of drool. Shorty after walking inside the house to get a cold one, one rack of ribs disappears
To weather or not to weather (acknowledgements to W.Shakespeare who was born in the same County as I was )
I am reluctant to weather my lovely looking locos and stock. Maybe it stems from my childhood when the second world war was taking place and toys were hard to come by. Those I did get were treasured.
I have seen many examples of weathering: those in this thread are indeed superb and inspirational. Others that I have seen elsewhere have often looked like they were from a fire damage sale.
I know what to do; but look forward to Kevin's article on weathering in the forthcoming GR where I hope to learn the pitfalls and methods to avoid.
I have been considering what to do with a few items that I no longer like or run. Three 20ft. Aristo cars, a spare Bachmann J&S combine and flatbed. Michaels post has kneejerked me into the MOW train of thought. I have a dead end line which is not often used and a MOW consist would look good and fit well onto it.
http://www.feldbahn-modellbau.ch/
Wish I could read the pages!
Toadster
unlike Kevin, I'm a huge fan of overweathering. Check out this link. It's not my work but wish it were...
Now this is what I am taking about!!!!
Ole Toad
And a few more.
Log cars and the caboose.
http://www.haworthengineering.com/
~Excellency in the Details ~
You asked for it so here are some more pictures - non MOW related for a change!! This is the flagship unit for the MANNM Railroad ( Mike Ann Michael). It is a shay that has been detailed and weathered. It was one of our very first locomotives. I hope you enjoy, Michael
Oh come on guys, know others look here, to from, different forums so please post some stuff you have!!!!! Why not? Marty you up for it?
Dont remember if I ever posted this over here, Snowplow;
FIts the MOW theme started....
Have fun with your trains
Okay, I think I did a primer on this before, but maybe not here. This is the down and dirty way to weather stuff. It isn't going to make and award winning model, but will help you do a fleet of cars in a hurry.
First paint it like it would have looked fresh from shopping:
Next paint in the rust, lime scale, patches, etc. and add decals Use a brighter color than you want it to end up:
Mask off whatever you DON'T want weathered....index cards work well for large areas (When there are lots of small window mullions I find it easier to just remove the "glass" and stick the masking tape to the inside):
Overspray with brown (oxide red) primer:
Overspray with grey primer:
Then overspray with black primer followed by a VERY light flat tan (the pics didn't come out, sorry), add final details like water bags, tools, figures and lunch boxes, and you get this:
weathered and decaying factory
come to think of it, everything on the layout is weathered, including me
altterrain wrote: -Brian
Sweet Brian !!!!
Michael, yeah, MOW is acccepted! There very nice. You run thous?
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