I use large round rocks, so I am assuming the ones you have are similar. I stack mine in retaining wall fashion. First the lowest level, then backfill with a heavy soil, about 3/4's up the back of the first layer. Then I put the second layer of rocks and backfill again, and so on until the desired level is reached. (Imagine the pyramids with rocks on the outside instead of bricks, and fill behind them) This makes the whole structure very strong and stable. I also select the most attractive (?) face of the rock to put to the front. If you have some very rough rocks or rubble you can add this to the very lowest levels as fill, to save on soil.
I use heavy soil, including clay as it is cheaper and it holds water, which is good for the roots of the trees. I find that sandy soils sink in and subside too much, and plants do not survive as well, as the water runs away.
I have paving (bricks) in front of my mountains, below track level, which is about 18 inches or .5 metres higher. I sink the first level of rocks a little below the level of the pavers. It stops everything moving and looks more realistic. I imagine my pavers are the rivers running between the mountains. As soon as I figure how to post photos I will do so, otherwise send me an e-mail and I will reply with photos, and maybe a drawing.
Mick
Timber Tramways Down Under
Chief Operating Officer
Northern Timber Company - Mt Beenak
Someone suggested putting your soil in cloth bags, to form mountains first. That still soulds like a good idea to me. Then form the rest over the bags, I'm guessing you will have a lot less erosion.
Paul
In my case it's probably going to be something along the line of metal framing, wire lathwork, concrete stone molds, and stucco.
"ROCK"---- What's that ??? Now sand, that's another thing, I can tell you about "that" here.......Byron
Snowshoe --
I've done my mountains with both round (smooth) river rock and with Shot (broken) rock as retaining borders. I've used about 10 tons of rock and about a ton and a half of 3/4- crushed stone (granite) in my mountains and hills. I've got limestone (washed round river rock), sandstone (called Moss rock), and holely wall rock (a sedimentary type with crystalline structures in many of the holes) utilized in diferrent places and heights in my garden. About 1/2 was purchased and half came from friends ranches, trips, and my ranch.
Here are some pictures of my approach:
Whether round or broken stone, bury about 1/3 to 1/2 of the large rock and lean it back into the slope of the hill/mountain, then use some 1/2 to 1"crushed stone at the seams between the adjoining rocks to stop the bulk of the erosion/filtration then back fill with soil. The crushed stone works just like ballast under the ties with the sharp edges locking together, and holding back the placed soils. If your still worried about erosion get some weed cloth strips cut to size, overlap and back the crushed stone with it. Jack Verducci has some very good tips in his books.
Every level or at least every other level should be set back a foot to two feet if possible for two reasons. First, it creates both plantable and steppable areas, and second, the set back will help reduce erosion by managing the slope of the mountain/hill. Wet rocks and muddy or wet tennys/boots are recipe for a fall.
Take the time to compact after adding 6 to 7inches of soil and again in each level to reduce future settling and potential movement. (Any more than that and you won't get good compaction!) I didn't and now I need about 3 to 5 more yards of soil to refill the levels Unless your really going tall, a hand tamp should be good enough, but a plate compactor is a fairly cheap rental if needed.
Yes, you can use rock for fill, but unless fairly small i.e. 2"-6" or less and mixed with soil at a 30% to 50% ratio it will not compact very well.
If you do use the rock for fill, mix it with the soil first if you can, and if you can't, water the H*** out of it for every 4 to 6 inches of soil you dump on top of it. You'll have a great deal of settling as it filters down between the rocks and fills those air gaps.
All in all it is a great, cheap way to get in shape too! Luggin' 60 to 100 pound rocks around will put some muscle on you quickly..... or just wear you out like it did me!! And oh yeah you'll need more than you think to get the job done........
Good luck
Mark
SNOWSHOE wrote:I am in the process of starting to make my mountains and hills. I have a lot of rock to work with.
Well I am going to knock the rock back down to size. Unless a moutain then "gupla" (Byron/Rene) has correct spelling and link.
One part I will need more access to it and was thinking cattle panel (cut to fit with some rebar welded to it), then "drape" chicken wire and fiberglass it.
And if you want ruff edges you can use a autobody filler called Allmetal. Warning on this, sand paper aint nothing to this stuff, it will eat it up quickly. Remember jagged edges and ruff edges is why I would use this on there if I used no rocks.
Toad
Email me if you want more.....
Thanks for all the advise. I ended up using rock in my area. I piled it up so high and as close together. Then I threw soil on top trying to fill in the cracks until I get the height I want. Then I will dig into the soil and add rocks to the top part of the mountain. So far it is holding up even after some heavy rain the last few days.
I though about the chicken wire meathod etc... but with the amount of real rock I have on my property from old farmers rock walls. It made more sence to go with natural and free materials.
Just figured out this photo thingy. This is what my 'mountains' look like. I imagine that the paving is the bed of the river...
Mt.
Paint the pavers a dk. blue while wifey is away and when she comes back get a snap shot of her enjoyment
Toad, I love you man, but I prefer to stay married.
Awh, showing love to the Toad!!!
what you are essentially doing is building a rock garden. use crusher fines or gravel in between the rocks for good drainage. DON'T use soil, or at least very little is needed. Good drainage is important for your thymes, sedums, junipers, phloxes and so on.
see today's Washington Post which addresses this (it takes but a few minutes to get a login and would be worth your time):
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/05/14/AR2008051400966.html
nice photos and narrative and also a description of hypertufa troughs
Greetings Toad
Might I suggest green. Most medicos seem to prefer green as it makes blood stains less vivid.
Alan, Oliver & North Fork Railroad
https://www.buckfast.org.uk/
If you don't know where you are going, any road will take you there. Lewis Carroll English author & recreational mathematician (1832 - 1898)
I'm not sure this is what you want to hear. I live on the east slope of the Sierra Nevada, no need to build mountain here. However I do have the carve my right of way out of my mountains. I ended up with a big pile of rocks. Not wanting to move them again I followed you suggestion and thew dirt over the pile. It didn't looked bad so I planted Wooly Tyme and a couple of Alberta Spruce.
That was three years ago and it looks great.
Rob
Fine time to make an introduction, but yes I'm new here. But have you ever tried using 'DeGe' also called Decomposed Granite. You can get it at your local rock yard.. for about 25 bucks a 1/4 scoop. For what DeGe does ... and the price.. I think it might be your best all around choice for what you want to accomplish. The beauty of using decomposed granite is that it has certain properties that are idea for gardening and landscaping. DeGe looks like sand, washes like sand, but if you apply and use it with bare hands.. your hands will be cut up because of the granite and its nature of being crushed rock. DeGe (looks like sand) once applied... and litely watered.. will turn to rock hard a day later. Ideal for many uses in gardening and perhaps for your application. Like I said, you'll get more bang for your buck with DeGe. Oh.. when I use it in the flower beds.. the DeGe gets so rock hard, the weeds have a hard time breaking through and rooting. Because its rock hard... it also keeps the moisture in underneath and thus less watering. Now whats so nice also, if and when you have to go back and weed.. or dig.. for more flower planting.. just wet the DeGe and it becomes soft like sand and easy to weed and dig. I hope this has been of some help to you.. or any other peeps out there looking for that ideal soil/rock filler that has many applications.
Get the Garden Railways newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month