If you could do it all over again...

[sfcgadget]

I am on my 2nd rebuild at this time. The first layout and rebuild was at ground level and under a large amount of trees. All the wiring was buried under the track for power and low voltage lighting in about 30 buildings. Wrong ideas for my situation. I have since developed back problems and my knees get too wrecked crawling around for track maintenance. Leafs, pine needles and acorns along with squirrels were killing me. An electrical problem meant digging for wires. I am now starting my construction of a raised layout using cement deck supports with 4x4s to get the presure treated 2x6s that form a basic support grid up to waist level. this will be covered by a plastic coated chicken wire and weed block to form a table top. Then Tufboard will be bent to support the track and structures. A wiring bus will be secured to the 2x6s. Then dirt, sand and ballast will cover the layout. Small plants and dwarf trees will be kept in their pots and supported from underneath so they are at ground level. It is kind of like building a layout the same way you would in your basement, but outside. The nice part is maintenance will be so much easier and water will pass right through where you don't want a puddle. Landscaping won't require tons of materials and a Bobcat to move it. A pond will be set up so it looks like a delivery point for the saw mill. The track will also enter my new shed via tunnels to facilitate storage of trains. The shed was built to store trains along with a workshop for the trains and all my power tools. No more 2 hours of cleaning and moving engines and cars from the house to the layout and back every time you want to operate. This works for me. Just things to think about for others.

[Anonymous]

 

Jake,

Don't listen to E-2-L he is a wild Floridian! Brass track is fine if you want it.

Master Toad Frog

An not Clean'in any track......BUTTT.....an YOU still just think'in about it.....BUTTT.....

Up an RUNN'IN, really good, TOO !!!!!

Mist'a Freaky Frog......

 

Byron C.

Yeah, if I had the money for a building it would have been built by now...Mr. Shish K Bob

And about cleaning track....you killed a LGB engine while doing so!

Toadster

[EMPIRE II LINE]

 

Jake,

Don't listen to E-2-L he is a wild Floridian! Brass track is fine if you want it.

Master Toad Frog

An not Clean'in any track......BUTTT.....an YOU still just think'in about it.....BUTTT.....

Up an RUNN'IN, really good, TOO !!!!!

Mist'a Freaky Frog......

 

Byron C.

[Anonymous]

So.... any advice to a newbee? What brand of track, switches, etc.?

If you could do it all over again, what would you do the same? Different? 

I'll take any and all observations, opinions, advice, etc.

 

Thanks

 

Jake 

Well Jake,

I am doing it all over again, the fourth, scratch that, the Fifth time, for that matter, in "G" gauge, once in Florida originally, in 95, than in Ohio 96 thru 98, again in Florida 98 thru 04, again after the hurricanes of 04 thru 06, and now for the fifth time 07 to the present.

I for one have chosen to use all Stainless Steel track, this time, as I use track power, a necessary "EVIL" some might say. However I don't think there is a feasable way of doing battery power for the equipment consists that I choose to run.

And I hated the constant cleaning of Br-***...track...

I have also chosen to do a semi-raised/modular layout. Because I have a bad back, and don't like to bend down constantly, and I live in a rental mobile park. All ponds are pretty much built up also, except for the initial drain back/sump pond, 4.5 feet down, 300 gallons.

I plan to power all mainline #6 switches with under mounted Tortise type switch machines, I use only #6's on the main line. And all wide radius 10 ft diameter switches in the run through, ladder track designed yards, in the 11 by 35 foot train storage room. I got tired of removing trains from the tracks all the time on the former layouts when ever the whether turned bad, and at night.....All housed 10 Ft switches  in the two ladder storage yards use LGB switch machines.

I know there are those who have their own personal opinions and will readily voice them. But I have for the time, chosen to use the Kietco, Loco-Linc RC system, in-conjunction with MTH's DCS system. Kiethcos system allows for RC control of the switches on the mainline also. So does the MTH, DCS system. I have designed a toggle switch system of control for the yard areas switches. 

My mainline has no curves less than 14 foot in diameter, except for only one bypass into the yard area for storage, two tracks 11.5 and 12.5 ft diameter, side by side, roughly at the halfway point in the 2000 ft long main line.

My line is divided/switched into five separate loops though-out, so that on guest "club meet" weekends, I can have separate trains on each section running un-attended, if I want. That also means visitors can run their "out-of-the-box-engines" on the track powered layout also, as well as battery powered RC units. Very versitile...... 

I like to run long consists of 33 inch long, USA streamliner passenger cars, pulled by ABBA lashups of F-3's, 50 to 60 foot long trains. As well as long 30 to 50 car freight trains, pulled by multi lashups of Dash-9's and 8's, SD-45's, Geep 38's, 9's and 7's.

That requires quite a bit of power to run train consists the likes of these. I have invested in GOOD power systems, Bridgewerks, TDR-25's, 18's, 15's and a 10. And would recommend that consideration definitely be given to that end, as to what you plan to do, run, and model.

Byron         PS: E-mail me if you'd care to talk about specifics.

        

     Here is an indication of how user friendly the Loco-Linc RC system is, My neighbors little four year old Daughter, Harley, is running a double headed Dash-9 lashup pulling a 44 car drag, about 75 foot in length , Loving the sound of the horn all the while as she moves it out....... I snapped this just 20 minutes ago.......Wednesday 7:30 PM the 18th, March, 2008....Byron

 

    

Jake,

Don't listen to E-2-L he is a wild Floridian! Brass track is fine if you want it.

Master Toad Frog

[lownote]

I'd commit to 1:32 and MTH. I like the American mainline stuff,  big classic 2oth century steam, but you really need a lot of room to make it look good. I don't care for the "old West" look of narrow gage, but narrow gage stock looks muh better on smaller layouts. So the answer for me would be 1:32--the smaller size works better for modest sized layouts, and I'd go with MTH because their locos come with sound and remote and a very high level of functionality. Probably stainless steel too, and I'd start with a track bender--no more sectional track

[Anonymous]

First thing I would change is not spending good money on stuff I wanted at the time, but ended up selling at a loss because they didn't quite "fit" with the rest of my stuff. (have a plan, and stick to it, bargain stuff is really no bargain if you can't use it)

 I also wouldn't have purchased those 1st 2nd and 3rd generation Big Hauler sets that I ended up parting out after they crapped on me.

[John Busby]

Hi chicagojake

If I where to start again

 I WOULD NOT use anything smaller than R3 curves.

I would make sure the garden edge that should have gone in as the track bed did, its now a pain geting it installed.

Make sure I remembered to put that end cap on the exposed end of the pipe work for the wiring

I now have to rewire the whole railway (because I forgot that end cap) so I can just run a train mice did a good job of chewing up the wiring

So I have to get trains running again before I can do any more about extending the railway.

I would STILL try and blend the railway into the garden to try and create a collective whole

rather than to just have a railway in the garden.

I would also be far more selective about the trains I aquired, I have quite a mix that doesn't quite gel together.

I think I would also try to make more of the bits and pieces also some rollingstock myself

regards John

[Anonymous]

Track:  I vote Stainless Steel with split jaw clamps at all connections and use feeders to ensure you don't have voltage drop issues.  Go with the largest diameter curves you can get away with.  Brand, you can get 332 code SS from Aristo and www.hrtrains.com  Currently, SS rail price is cheaper (even when Aristo track is on sale at 4 for 1) through HRtrains.  I would get HRtrains rail and Aristo plastic tie sections.  SS is virtually maintenance free.

Power: Get the largest Amp power supply you can afford.  Prefer the throttle type from Bridgewerks.

Sound and control:  Went with MTH DCS and love it!

Not sure I can think of anything else. 

Good luck.

Raymond

www.rayman4449.dynip.com

[on30francisco]

I would go to On30

I modeled On30 before switching to large scale. Ever since I built a few structures and rolling stock in large scale, I found it very difficult and frustrating to go back to working in On30 due to the size differential. Large scale spoiled me so that I can't to go back to anything smaller. It's too bad because I think On30 is neat.  

[SandyR]

I originally built my small garden railroad 16" above grade. Over the past 15 years it has subsided to some 9" above grade. Now that I'm a senior citizen, I dearly wish that I had been able to build it some 24" above grade. It isn't fun leaning over or kneeling, to get the trains on the track, and sitting on the ground to watch them isn't as easy as it was years ago. Moral: plan ahead for old age!!

SandyR 

[alamosa]

....I originally started with a flat surface and raised it up between 8" and 1', if I did it today it would all be raised at least 3'.

[FJ and G]

another thing I'd do is not purchase any trains. Much more fun to build them yourself

[EMPIRE II LINE]

So.... any advice to a newbee? What brand of track, switches, etc.?

If you could do it all over again, what would you do the same? Different? 

I'll take any and all observations, opinions, advice, etc.

 

Thanks

 

Jake 

Well Jake,

I am doing it all over again, the fourth, scratch that, the Fifth time, for that matter, in "G" gauge, once in Florida originally, in 95, than in Ohio 96 thru 98, again in Florida 98 thru 04, again after the hurricanes of 04 thru 06, and now for the fifth time 07 to the present.

I for one have chosen to use all Stainless Steel track, this time, as I use track power, a necessary "EVIL" some might say. However I don't think there is a feasable way of doing battery power for the equipment consists that I choose to run.

And I hated the constant cleaning of Br-***...track...

I have also chosen to do a semi-raised/modular layout. Because I have a bad back, and don't like to bend down constantly, and I live in a rental mobile park. All ponds are pretty much built up also, except for the initial drain back/sump pond, 4.5 feet down, 300 gallons.

I plan to power all mainline #6 switches with under mounted Tortise type switch machines, I use only #6's on the main line. And all wide radius 10 ft diameter switches in the run through, ladder track designed yards, in the 11 by 35 foot train storage room. I got tired of removing trains from the tracks all the time on the former layouts when ever the whether turned bad, and at night.....All housed 10 Ft switches  in the two ladder storage yards use LGB switch machines.

I know there are those who have their own personal opinions and will readily voice them. But I have for the time, chosen to use the Kietco, Loco-Linc RC system, in-conjunction with MTH's DCS system. Kiethcos system allows for RC control of the switches on the mainline also. So does the MTH, DCS system. I have designed a toggle switch system of control for the yard areas switches. 

My mainline has no curves less than 14 foot in diameter, except for only one bypass into the yard area for storage, two tracks 11.5 and 12.5 ft diameter, side by side, roughly at the halfway point in the 2000 ft long main line.

My line is divided/switched into five separate loops though-out, so that on guest "club meet" weekends, I can have separate trains on each section running un-attended, if I want. That also means visitors can run their "out-of-the-box-engines" on the track powered layout also, as well as battery powered RC units. Very versitile...... 

I like to run long consists of 33 inch long, USA streamliner passenger cars, pulled by ABBA lashups of F-3's, 50 to 60 foot long trains. As well as long 30 to 50 car freight trains, pulled by multi lashups of Dash-9's and 8's, SD-45's, Geep 38's, 9's and 7's.

That requires quite a bit of power to run train consists the likes of these. I have invested in GOOD power systems, Bridgewerks, TDR-25's, 18's, 15's and a 10. And would recommend that consideration definitely be given to that end, as to what you plan to do, run, and model.

Byron         PS: E-mail me if you'd care to talk about specifics.

        

     Here is an indication of how user friendly the Loco-Linc RC system is, My neighbors little four year old Daughter, Harley, is running a double headed Dash-9 lashup pulling a 44 car drag, about 75 foot in length , Loving the sound of the horn all the while as she moves it out....... I snapped this just 20 minutes ago.......Wednesday 7:30 PM the 18th, March, 2008....Byron

 

    

[dwbeckett]

I would go to On30

[FJ and G]

by far the greatest mistake in my entire life was wasting my time for years on model trains before I went 7/8" scale in the garden. So saaaaaaad

[grandpopswalt]

We're moving in a couple weeks so I'll also get a chance to start over again. This time ALL of the track will be elevated. Layout will be built on modular platforms or "tables" (much, much easier to disassemble when it's time to move again ...... there's a 99% chance that the new owner will not want any hint of a garden RR in the backyard, he'll want to see a lawn). Main line minimum radius at least 6ft. (that's radius, not diameter). #6 turnouts on the mainline. RC/battery power. Trackplan designed to allow the trains to just run unattended as opposed to an operations based design (I've found that I prefer to just watch the trains run through the scenery than to play engineer/brakeman). And finally, I'd stress doing everything (locos, rolling stock, right-of-way, structures, etc) with quality rather than quantity and size in mind.

Good luck,

Walt 

 

[imrnjr]

If you could do it all over again, what would you do the same? Different?

 

Jake -- I'm still building on my first railway, but if I could start over I'd utilize much bigger curves with 8' radius at a minimum and 10'+ radius as a standard.  I'd also reduce the grades to 2 or 3% max.... I've got one area that the grade is 4.5 to 5% which really reduces the length of trains.

I'd make the track plan a lot simpler to start with and branch off with more complex expansions after getting the trains up and running.  Waiting *** near a year to run trains is no way to stay focused on the build, and needless to say it doesn't get the grandkids involved.

I'd also get better quality engines and not spend the money on the starter sets....I've not been very happy with the issues I've run into with mine.

Other n'at I wouldn't change much.......other than .....well maybe go DCC to begin with

Mark

[vsmith]

I DID do it all over again,  and made several changes, a larger loop that over and under,  a different approach to yards and sidings, and a more scenic master plan.

[ttrigg]

   If you could do it all over again, what would you do the same?  Different?  

Instad of digging down for the pond, I would build up for the pond and GRR.  Then I could have much more bridge work getting down to ground level for the run through the rose beds.

[Don H]

I'm going to do it all over again. After 24 years with he same layout, it's time to rebuild as soon as the frost is out of the ground. When I started I used 2x6 ceder for the road bed, Aristo 3 foot straight track and LGB 4 foot radius curves, that's all that was available at the time. I had very little to no problems with the old layout. I ran track power for about 18 of the years, then I converted to battery.  I used a lot of conductive grease in the joints.  The new layout is going to have 10 foot radius curves, on ladder roadbed. I using USA trains #6 switches on the mainline and LGB 1600 switches in the yards.

[calenelson]

click here for a link to how I am doing "it"

A few things I would do different?....

Keep grades as minimal as possible...I have been rebuilding the main grade recently!

not build a tunnel that runs downhill..so does the water when it rains (and everything else!)

start with a Train-Li track bender!

do all heavy landscaping (retaing walls, etc...) first.

try to comprehend just how much work is involved in making this happen!

Study more!  Read up on layouts, plantings, operations, etc...(I did my homework on powering my trains and settled upon Battery and RC!).

Good luck! 

 

cale 

[two tone]

Hi Jake  I use LGB brass track ive had no problems with it  I would recomend R3 curves and turnouts with electric switching.  My layout is controlled by the train engineer (AristoCrest) all my accessoies are by this company no probs with any of their products.   Hope this helps

[Anonymous]

I am building my first garden railroad. I have G scale stuff (Aristo U25-B and some cars) inherited from my dad. I don't have the track, nor the power supply yet. I am going to install about 150 feet of track with a long steady incline from the ground level up to about 4 feet off the ground and then at the opposite end, have it circle decend back to ground level. I am also going to build a waterfall/fountain system.

So.... any advice to a newbee? What brand of track, switches, etc.?

If you could do it all over again, what would you do the same? Different? 

I'll take any and all observations, opinions, advice, etc.

 

Thanks

 

Jake