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Cog Garden Railway

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  • Member since
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  • From: Downingtown PA
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Cog Garden Railway
Posted by Gwen@Downingtown on Monday, February 25, 2008 3:56 PM

My yard is slopped. I am thinking of doing an outdoor layout, and I am considering creating the look of the Swiss trains that go up steep slopes with a cog railway.

Has anyone done this and can you provide advice - I figure I may need to start from ground zero and scratch build everything, but this could be a cool project. I plan on a single track, point to point scheme, with a couple sidings to allow trains to cross at specified points. Eventually this would be an automated, computerized railroad.

 I saw a movie on line with something that looked HO scale. Not sure if it was an actual cog or had the look of it only.

 Thanks for any suggestions on track, engines, rolling stock, etc...

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  • From: Dacula, GA USA
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Posted by Coogler Rail Line on Monday, February 25, 2008 4:19 PM
I haven't seen it done but LGB made a cog railway 70246 Zugspitz Rack Train Set.  I have seen it on Ebay a couple of times and consider it as well...I have a sloped back yard as well.
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Posted by SNOWSHOE on Monday, February 25, 2008 5:04 PM
Here is a link to a cog RR in the US.  The RR that goes to the top of Mount Washington in NH.  Hope this helps some.  http://www.thecog.com/
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Posted by Coogler Rail Line on Monday, February 25, 2008 6:22 PM
That Mount Washington Cog Railroad was featured on the Rural Network RFD's Trains and Locomotives a week or so back.   That was very impressive.
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Posted by J Silverman on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 8:09 PM
I always wanted to build some sort of cog railway with those black K'Nex chain pieces. Big Smile [:D] You could probably adapt something like that if no products will work.
udo
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Posted by udo on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 8:46 PM
The LGB system worked very well and locomotives were available in both steam and electric profile. The track components of the system are now hard to find until Märklin chooses to remold them. Smooth transitions are required for successful operation.
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Posted by Mr_Ash on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 2:24 AM
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Posted by hoofe116 on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 8:02 PM

I want to scratchbuild a cog mine railway just for the fun of working out the mechanics of doing it. I am scratching on paper a multi-tier mine. I doodled some center-pivoted mine cars (instead of end-pivot) so the load would stay horizontal on the way up (or down, as it might work out). Bet it'd be an interesting challenge. (Now watch Vic post a picture of a completed rack RR!)Tongue [:P]

Les

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  • From: Downingtown PA
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Posted by Gwen@Downingtown on Thursday, February 28, 2008 9:57 AM
Sounds like an interesting (and challenging) project. The mine look could be real cool.
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Posted by ondrek on Friday, February 29, 2008 8:54 AM

doing a home made cog rail way would be pretty easy.

you will need to do a few things.

1. modify the train so that one or maybe two of the driving axles has a 11tooth bicycle cog.  you can get one from a local bike shop...ask them for a used one, it will work just fine for your use and if you can get it right, you could get it for free.  you will need to fill in the center of the cog, it will be just a ring when you get it.  you will have to do something, weld a piece of metal or maybe screw two sheets together.  not sure, but somehow you will need it to go on the axle.

2. when you are at the bike store ask for old used junk bike chains.  you should be able to get them for free too.  get a few.  it will depend on how long your climb is.  you can link them together and if not ask the guys at the bike shop to do it for you.  you will need to take this bike chain, and put it in the center of the track.  secure it to the track, epoxy should work.  

 

Thats it.  the train should have enough umph to turn the cog, an 11 is no bigger than a driving wheel of a bachmann big hauler.  

I have had this in my mind for 2 years now, just havent been able to implement it.  I used to race bikes so I have the 11 laying around as well as old chains, thats how i came up with the idea.

 

good luck.

Kevin     

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Posted by kstrong on Friday, February 29, 2008 11:37 AM
Kevin,

Cool concept. How much curve can you introduce into the chain for curves? Seems to me that the bike chains are rather rigid in that regard.

Later,

K
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  • From: Florissant, Missouri
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Posted by hoofe116 on Friday, February 29, 2008 9:56 PM

Kevin:

As a rule of thumb, the more worn a bike chain is, the further it'll flex along its 'fixed' axis. Still, I dunno if that'd be enough.

I put myself thru two semesters of college buying dead bikes, fixing 'em and selling 'em. I'm talking bicycles, mind you.

Les W.

 

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Posted by hoofe116 on Friday, February 29, 2008 10:10 PM

Ondrek:

Interesting concept. Kevin's got a point re the flex of the chain. Putting a center in a sprocket isn't a big problem, I'd probably turn a wooden plug and epoxy it. If that didn't work, braze a piece of turned steel.

My own thinking runs along the lines of taking a coarse flat-cut gear out of some dead power tool (these battery-powered ones are a rich source) and laying out wood or aluminum 'longerons' and cutting slots at the appropriate intervals, which can easily be found by using chalk or toolmaker's dye (or a magical marker) and getting the spacing. Then locate these between the rails and tack 'em down. For curves, kerfing and careful bending should do. That's where an aluminum extrusion might be better. Also, on the curves, a file would modify the kerfs as needed. All you need worry about is, 'will the tooth fit in the narrowest part of the slot?'

The hardest part would be finding a gear of the right diameter. Failing that, one would be faced with a jackstaff arrangement and a couple of gears. Either way, doable.

The center-gimballed ore cars strike me as the most difficult part, and, are they prototypical?

Les W.

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  • From: Florissant, Missouri
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Posted by hoofe116 on Friday, February 29, 2008 10:17 PM

Gwen:

Yeah, it'd be both. But I have about a year more of house reworking before I can start building my layout, so I've half-decided to do live dioramas and fit 'em in when the benchwork gets built. Now, where do I store the dioramas? There's a challenge!

Les W.

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Posted by ondrek on Sunday, March 2, 2008 8:25 PM

I think that one could get the chain to curve but not alot, mind you, I have seen the LGB cog set up, and it didnt have any curve to it at all.  so the bike chain wouldnt be any worse in my mind.

in any event, my idea was just that, an idea, if you want to try it out, great, I hope to some day.

 

Kevin

 

 

 hoofe116 wrote:

Ondrek:

Interesting concept. Kevin's got a point re the flex of the chain. Putting a center in a sprocket isn't a big problem, I'd probably turn a wooden plug and epoxy it. If that didn't work, braze a piece of turned steel.

My own thinking runs along the lines of taking a coarse flat-cut gear out of some dead power tool (these battery-powered ones are a rich source) and laying out wood or aluminum 'longerons' and cutting slots at the appropriate intervals, which can easily be found by using chalk or toolmaker's dye (or a magical marker) and getting the spacing. Then locate these between the rails and tack 'em down. For curves, kerfing and careful bending should do. That's where an aluminum extrusion might be better. Also, on the curves, a file would modify the kerfs as needed. All you need worry about is, 'will the tooth fit in the narrowest part of the slot?'

The hardest part would be finding a gear of the right diameter. Failing that, one would be faced with a jackstaff arrangement and a couple of gears. Either way, doable.

The center-gimballed ore cars strike me as the most difficult part, and, are they prototypical?

Les W.

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  • From: Jones County, Georgia
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Posted by GearDrivenSteam on Tuesday, March 4, 2008 1:28 AM
This thread is useless without pictures.
It is enough that Jesus died and that he died for me.
udo
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Posted by udo on Tuesday, March 4, 2008 12:47 PM
 ondrek wrote:

I have seen the LGB cog set up, and it didnt have any curve to it at all.



I do not understand. I have used the LGB cog system and it will curve to R1. (#11000)

Udo
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Posted by OeBB on Wednesday, March 5, 2008 11:16 AM
Please let us know how its goes.  I too have thought about a cog rail line.
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Posted by ondrek on Monday, March 10, 2008 10:44 AM

I have seen just two set ups with the LGB Cog, one was a straight shot up a hill, it was independent to the rest of the layout, it was only 7' long.  the second was in a  layout and was only used in a steep grade that went after a curve and ended before the next curve, so it was straight as well, I just thought it didnt come in curves.

R1 curve is excellent for cog, it would make awsome switchbacks as the engine climbs a hill.

Kevin

 

 udo wrote:
 ondrek wrote:

I have seen the LGB cog set up, and it didnt have any curve to it at all.



I do not understand. I have used the LGB cog system and it will curve to R1. (#11000)

Udo

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  • From: NJ (Kittatinny Mountains)
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Posted by SNOWSHOE on Tuesday, March 11, 2008 7:03 AM

I found this on you tube.  It looks like an LGB Cog RR.  It is pretty cool setup especially with the background  views 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAjl374Sn0k&feature=related

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