?? on the G scale setups for outside running

[gardenengineer]

fireman53508,
The two question you have to ask yourself, what kind of operations do I want?  Are you looking to have an operational layout with sidings and mainlines with all kinds of scenery and buildings, similar to what can be achieved with the smaller scales.  Or do you want to have a garden with a train line running throughout it?  The latter is what turns out, in my opinion to be the most practical.  Not to say that the building of an outdoor layout with all kinds of stuff going on is not achievable. There are many fine examples of outdoor layouts in the garden but finding the right amount of space, time and money is something which must be carefully planned for.   The problem with establishing an outdoor g scale layout is primarily linked to the weather for wherever you might be.  Up here in the northeast the outdoor season for me ends in mid September.  During some good years I have been able to get out in the backyard in late April and get things cleaned up and get the pool open and some plants in the ground.  My 140+ feet of rail which runs over and under itself twice in a continuous loop is the center piece for all the plants and weeds in my garden.  Of the three things mentioned, space is of the utmost importance when you want to have an operational layout outdoors.  If your space is limited there is only so much you can do.  This is where I found myself, with limited space. Even if I had an extravagant lot to build a layout I would only get to enjoy it for about 5 to 6 moonths of the year.  Money is always in short supply but if you have been involved with model railroading in any scale you should know that everything you want costs more than you want to pay.  Time, well what you don't get done this year you can get started on next year.  The off season gives you time to acquire track and rolling stock as well as dream and plan.  I ended 07 with getting a pond about 80% finished.  In a few weeks I will be able to hit the ground running to finish up that project, I can't wait.   I realize I didn't address your questions directly but this is not rocket science and most of your answers can be found on line and on the forums.   I wish you success in the building of your g scale outdoor layout.  
Pete

[Capt Bob Johnson]

You might want to go back and fill in your profile.  Don't be too precise as to location; something like Philly, San Francisco, or upstate NY will do.  Although you haven't asked a question yet which is geographically sensitive, chances are you will.    Age, modelling experiance, and talents are helpful also.

Bear in mind that some places have to contend with things like frost heave or snow, yet in desert areas ultraviolet light may be a bigger enemy.   In other words what may work along the mid atlantic coastline may not work around Phoenix.   Likewise, terminology differs; an elevator in the USA is a Lift in the Olde Country!

Sometimes, you may be steered to a local club for some answers or help if folk knew where you are!

[rpc7271]

If you run off of rail power you need to clean the rail every so often or buy special rail cleaning cars. You can also run off of radio controled self contained batteries. There are currently no locomotives that run on a radio controled battery direct from the manufacturer so you need to buy the control system of your choice and install it. There is significant extra cost to this, however this cost can be offset by not buying expensive transmormers and not having to run miles of wires to your tracks. Most people who have converted to battery power will never go back to track power. The time to decide is now before you spend to much money on the wrong system and have duplicated everything.

[Anonymous]

thanks Brian and Tom your input; ansered alot of my ??

 fireman53508

[ttrigg]

Brian & Ralph have pretty well answered your questions.  There are only two things I would add to what they have already said.

1.  Use rail clamps not the rail joiners that come with the track.  (Split Jaw and Hillmans's are the two brands to look for.)  They can be a bit pricey, but give a VERY solid mecanical as well as electrical joint. 

2. Get outside and start playing in the dirt.  Put down some track, run your trains and you will answer your own questions about slope (grade).  My layout has about a half percent grade along the "mainlines", however I do have a trolly line to the top of the waterfall that runs some where near 20%.  Since only the street car makes that trip I have installed rubber tires and extra power pickups.

 

[cabbage]

q1 gauge of track you require is 45mm AKA gauge 1
q2a inclination is the same wether scale or real -less than 4 in 100
q2b radii should be as large as possible unless using articulated locomotives
q3a no
q3b either and both depending on your layout needs
q4a cannot answer that one, it is too dependant on personal requirements

regards

ralph

[altterrain]

Welcome to large scale!

1. There are three diffrent scales of "G" what track should be used "standerd or #1"?

"G scale" track is 45 mm gauge. This is made by many manufacturers - LGB, Piko, AristoCraft, USA trains, Llagas Creek, etc. Most is code 332 ( 0.332 inches in height ) but there are smaller more prototypic codes used. Most of the code 332 track can be used together. 

Large scales trains run from 1:13.7 to 1:32 scale but all runon the same 45 mm track. 

2. Slope / Raduse we have been told not to go above 1 persent grade; is this according to the   "scale" or "general measurements"?

Most large scale trains handle up to a 2% grade just fine. This is a 2 inch rise in 100 inch run (or length). I use up to 3% grades on my layout. I have seen geared steamers run up to 8% grade and rack locos up to 25% grade. Grade is independent of scale.

Bigger is always better with radius (or diameter typically in large scale). Most equiptment will run just fine on 8 foot diameter but I have seen layouts with only 4 foot diameter track that are pretty nifty.

3. Is there anything we need to know about using "stanless steel track"; also should we use "sold or flex"?

Nothing very special about working Stainless track except it harder and usually needs to be cut with some type of machine (vs. by hand with a hack saw). I use an angle grinder with a 4" metal blade on mine. Its also difficult to solder but can be done. I used premade curves and 5 foot straights that can be made to flex on my layout.

4. What type of power supply do we need "DCC" or "remote"? What is the diffrence? We plane on running both live steam and electric "genral trains".

I started with (and still have) plain old track power on my layout. I have supplemented this with a bit of battery/RC power. You can have a remote control system with track power. The Aristo (Crest) Train Engineer is very popular. DCC is digital command control and work like RC except signals are sent through the rail instead of the air. I do not care for DCC in an outdoor environment.

Live steam is typically run on a separate track (but not always). Live steamers can make a mess of the track with water and oil. 

Click on my logo below to see by garden railroading blog.

-Brian 

[Anonymous]

My father and I are looking at building an out side G scale railway. We have come across some ?? see below.

1. There are three diffrent scales of "G" what track should be used "standerd or #1"?

2. Slope / Raduse we have been told not to go above 1 persent grade; is this acording to the   "scale" or "genrale measurements"?

3. Is there anything we need to know about using "stanless steel track"; also should we use "sold or flex"?

4. What type of power supply do we need "DCC" or "remote"? What is the diffrence? We plane on running both live steam and electric "genral trains".

thanks, fireman53508