Aristocraft ALCO FA-1 Locomotive Minimum Radius curve?

[RRT114]

Hi Everyone,

 

I began in the G Scale Hobby recently from O Gauge, and have a question. what are the Minimum Radius Curves required for the Aristocraft Alco FA-1 Diesel Units? (Aristocraft 22010 for example). I'm reading conflicting information about it. I would like to run it on my existing 4 foot curves (LGB R1 Curves for example). One Website I would like to but it from says it will run on 4 foot diameter curves, and another says 5.

 

Any help?

Thanks in advanced!

 

Ryan

[altterrain]

Minimum radius? That depends if you are seeing how tight a curve to can make it run on or  what's the minimum it will run well on. Aristo recommends a minimum of 5 foot diameter track and that's pretty tight. I have heard of guys running it on four foot diameter track using hook and loop couplers and that sure does look good . Bigger is always better!

-Brian 

[Independent Operator]

When I started my backyard layout four years ago I started with the basic LGB track set and added to it.  I have one long siding and I have a few Aristocraft and Trains USA diesals that just won't negotiate either switch to it without derailing.  Same for the curves on the mainline.

The Aristrocraft diesals that do make it are the out of production FA-1 and FB-1 combos.  They and Aristrocraft knuckle coupler cars do fine.  Running my Trains USA diesals (the ones that make it) with hook and loop couplers I ran into a problem also.  The tight turns caused the first car behind the engine to get pulled off the tracks by the engine.  I solved that by using one car where I took the hook off of one coupler hooking that end to the engine letting the hook on the engine coupler do the work.  The other cars behind it with complete hook and loop couplers follow nicely.  Only problem I had there was a curve on the mainline where the one hook unhooked until I leveled that curve.

The old Lionel out of production steam and diesal engines negotiate nicely as do the out of production K-line diesals. 

Using the basic starter LGB set as a foundation for my layout was one of many mistakes that I made along with not doing some major research first.  I've fixed all my screwups over the years and have to live with my tight curve problem and if I ever do another layout I'll do a lot of thinking and planning. 

If you still have the choices I'd say go with wider curves.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[vsmith]

Got one, engine itself is R1 capable, the issue usually involved couplers:

With Aristo knuckle couplers = 4' diameter claimed but 5' diameter prefered, all truck mounted couplers

With hook and loop couplers = 4' diameter, all truck mounted couplers

[Anonymous]

the top track is a 4 ft curve in my basement , i put a 2 ft piece of track in between the curve, i have no problem with RS3'S OR FA1.  BEN

[LGBtrains1963]

Hi, When these engines was first made under the REA name they was made to take a 4 foot (R1) curve without any problems, the only difference between a REA and Aristocraft is that the Aristo stands a little taller than the REA, sure motors have been changed and the gear work but it should run 4 foot without any problems. The only problem might be the couplers, these might bind if going into a turnout that is set up as a passing siding, if this is the case then change to hook and loop (lgb type) couplers..  

[Independent Operator]

Hi, When these engines was first made under the REA name they was made to take a 4 foot (R1) curve without any problems, the only difference between a REA and Aristocraft is that the Aristo stands a little taller than the REA, sure motors have been changed and the gear work but it should run 4 foot without any problems. The only problem might be the couplers, these might bind if going into a turnout that is set up as a passing siding, if this is the case then change to hook and loop (lgb type) couplers..  

I had that problem yesterday when I pulled out a new FB-1 unit that I had not test run before.  It kept pushing the A unit ahead of it off the track coming out of the passing siding which by my bad prior planning is tight.  The coupler kept binding at a 45 degree angle.  Could not make it quit doing that so finally replaced it with a new Aristocraft coupler and the problem went away.  Next when I hooked a string of cars to the combo, the rear coupler on the B unit did the same thing pulling the car behind it off the tracks.  Ended up replacing it also.  Pays to be a pak rat as far as parts go   Guess it also pays to test run all equipment when you buy it and not wait a couple of years