I will be running track power on my garden layout, and am building some short switch engines. I have a modified Stainz already, and am currently building some small British-outline switchers. Since power pickup might be sketchy due to the small wheel base, I was going to build a "power pickup car" that will be wired to the engine. Sort of like a trailing battery car. I plan to use some LGB ball bearing wheels and install them on a freight car that I can then connect to my engines when I want to run my small switchers.
For connections, I was going to use 1/8" MONO headphone jacks. I chose mono to simplify wiring, and 1/8" because it is a standard size, small enough to not be obnoxious, and because I thought it could handle the power requirements that I might put on it. Am I wrong? Can they stand up to the current and ampherage that large scale trains draw?
Also, I am not sure how to wire into the LGB Stainz motor block. Can I just tap into the wires that were used for the lights and sockets on the back of the engine? (It is an older model, I think #20210, not one of the newer ones that might use lower wattage bulbs and resistor circuitry).
Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give.
Modeling the D&H in 1984: http://dandhcoloniemain.blogspot.com/
Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life
Scoobster,
I also use trackpower on my outdoor layout. What I did was go to an automotive store and purchase a trailer plug. The plug is waterproof and it is made for outside use. Hope this is a help to you. Happy Railroading, Ron
These are what I use for my battery cars -
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/CON-240/189/2-CONDUCTOR_LOCKING_CONNECTORS_W__LEADS_.html
They are the same type Aristo uses for their tender - loco connections and for their MU and battery connections.
-Brian
I see you guys are recommending different types of plugs, which might be a better idea in the long run, but they are large and look, well, large. So, let me rephrase my questions:
1. IF I were to use the headphone jacks anyways, despite the possibility of poor connections, would they be able to handle the current and amps that large scale trains draw.
2. If I were to use the connectors you guys recommend, do they make anything smaller?
Thanks.
The 1/8" jacks would not carry more than say 1/2 an amp.The problem with headphone jacks is they short out as they are inserted and removed.
I have found the smallish 5mm/2.5mm DC jacks and plugs will handle up to 5 amps at 15 volts OK.The connectors shown by Brian would also be good for up to about 5 amps.Any more current and you would have to use the clunky Tamiya type connectors, which can handle quite high currents.1/4" banana jacks and plugs will also handle quite high currents.
Best wishes,Tony Walsham (Remote Control Systems) http://www.rcs-rc.comModern technology. Old fashioned reliability.
They are not really that big. Once you paint the red wire black (I use a Sharpie), you reall don't notice them. You can see them in these pics -
These are a bit smaller. They are the ones Aristo use for connections to the power trucks.
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/CON-230S/189/2-CONDUCTOR_CONNECTOR,_FEMALE_.html
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/CON-230P/189/2_CONDUCTOR_CONNECTOR,_MALE_.html
The newer LGB engines and cars use the 100mil plug and sockets and are identical to those in desktop computers.
I take the wiring harnesses from scrap computers and use these for my trains to run wires between cars and engines.
The older LGB and USA engines do have a pair of round sockets and LGB sells an adapter kit to make them compatible with the new 100 mil scheme.
I use the LGB sockets to get extra power to the engines from tenders. For my small diesels,I use a car with power pickups. My track powered layout works much better with the extra power pickups on all my engines.
Note that the newer engines by both LGB and Aristocraft have auto reseting breakers in the wire/circuit boards for the power going to the power plugs on the front and rear of the engoines and these may open ( trip when you do not want them to) if the load is too big.
1 amp at what voltage? Wattage (amps x volts) is a more meaningful measure here. If it was 1 amp at 120v thats 120 watts, the same as 5 amps at 24 volts.
"1 amp at what voltage? Wattage (amps x volts) is a more meaningful measure here. If it was 1 amp at 120v thats 120 watts, the same as 5 amps at 24 volts."
This statement is really for the consumed power rating like a motor, not the connector.
Amps is similiar to GPM, volts is similiar to pressure, power is the bucket or lake that is filled/emptied.
When you look at a connector, you need the amp rating, but there is very little to no power loss, therefore the watts/Volt Amps do not directly apply. MAX amps and voltage do apply much like a hose has a max pressure before it bursts.
So a 1 amp conector can carry 1 amp at 1 volt or 100 volts. I would stay at the connector amp rating of 1 amp and never trust it to go to 5 amps as connectors degrade over time and can melt from heat esp. if the ratings are exceeded.
That's very informative. Thanks Dan.
Is that the same for switches? They often have an amperage and voltage rating.
The problem is I don't know how many amps an LGB Stainz will ever pull, or how many amps one power truck of a Bachmann 45 ton switch engine will pull. I don't want to get a connector that melts because, for some strange reason, too many amps try to go through.
If you guys say that a 1 amp connector is fine (assuming I ask if it will carry 24 volts safely), then that is what I will trust.
I am just trying to be safe, is all.
I tested my Dunkirk with the Bachmann shay trucks under load (10 cars) and grade (2%) and the most it ever pulled was 1.1 amps (and that was for the two trucks). I'm working on a project with a 45 tonner truck now and it looks like the same motor (but I have not done a direct comparison). As long as you don't plan on adding a smoke unit and lots of lights, 1 amp should be fine.
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