altterrain wrote: Rail clamps are the easiest and best way to go but they run $1.50 - $2 each. Multiply that X2 for each joint and it's not cheap. Soldering costs pennies a joint but lots more work.-Brian
Rail clamps are the easiest and best way to go but they run $1.50 - $2 each. Multiply that X2 for each joint and it's not cheap. Soldering costs pennies a joint but lots more work.
-Brian
Thats the biggest problem for me right now is the price. Since my layout is not going to be too big I probably will end up with the soldering jumper wires.
kimbrit wrote: I use Aristo track and over the last few years I have had no problems with their bolt through the track joiner system. Mechanical strength is good, electrical continuity is good and they have a good selection, I use 9' diameter where I can and 8' where I can't on the main line with 6' on the line round the back of the shed. Totally agree about clamps, all my LGB radius 5 are secured with them and make it easy to lift when need arises. A couple of times a year I go round and check the track joining bolts for tightness, a few do work themselves loose.Enjoy!!Kim When you say you use the bolt through the track joiner system on the Aristo do you mean the screw that they give with the track? Thats what i plan on using when i start building this spring. Im not sure what I am going to use. Im hopping that the screws with the Aristo track will work, unless I am better off with either split jaw or doing jumper wires?
I use Aristo track and over the last few years I have had no problems with their bolt through the track joiner system. Mechanical strength is good, electrical continuity is good and they have a good selection, I use 9' diameter where I can and 8' where I can't on the main line with 6' on the line round the back of the shed. Totally agree about clamps, all my LGB radius 5 are secured with them and make it easy to lift when need arises. A couple of times a year I go round and check the track joining bolts for tightness, a few do work themselves loose.
Enjoy!!
Kim
When you say you use the bolt through the track joiner system on the Aristo do you mean the screw that they give with the track? Thats what i plan on using when i start building this spring. Im not sure what I am going to use. Im hopping that the screws with the Aristo track will work, unless I am better off with either split jaw or doing jumper wires?
Flagstaff!!!
Great town. Pass through all the time driving to our place outside of Durango CO. So your temperature extremes and such should be very similar to our layout (8200 feet).
We use Llagas Creek track, but for any brand I would highly suggest Split Jaw, or Hillman clamps to join the sections. We use Split Jaw. They hold nice and tight, help immensely with track power continuity, and if you need to change or remove a piece of track it's a breeze.
Although we close down the layout for most of the winter, we still leave most of the track outside. However we do bring in the expensive switches...don't want an elk stomping on them And with rail joiners all I have to do is unscrew them and remove the switches. Couldn't be easier.
Take a look at our website (link below in my signature) to see what the layout looks like. Being in Flagstaff, I bet your surroundings are somewhat similar.
Here's to hoping those pesky bark beetles go away, and to a nice wet winter
Matt from Anaheim, CA and Bayfield, COClick Here for my model train photo website
Pretty much all the 6 axles diesels require a minimum of 8 foot diameter track to run well. Bigger is always better.
Soldering track can be a good idea if you have brass track and if you don't plan on changing your track layout very much. If you live with big swings in temperature (like most of us), track expansion needs to be a consideration. Your track will need to be free floating and if you plan long straight sections you may need to incorporate a section with an expanding joint track. I have also seen track where jumper wires were soldered on either side of the regular rail joiners to improve electrical flow. Just soldering jumper wires still allows for expansion and makes changing your track easier in the future.
Also consider Hilmann or SplitJaw rail clamps if your budget allows.
Iam getting in to garden rr .
Iam going to be running the six axle locos like the SD 40-2 what is a good radias for these locos?
Should i solder the rail joints to gether? also what is a good track to lay and wont rust ?
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