Yes.
Done it.
Place the loco on the rails, apply power until you get the speed you want, place a voltmeter across the rails, and e-mail me with the voltage.
TOC
Is it REAL? or Just 1:29 scale?
Long live Outdoor Model Railroading.
Curmudgeon wrote:Yes.Done it.TOC
Done It...Me too! Thanks to TOC! I have a HLW Mack with 9.6v and a DPDT switch...Dave helped "Big Time"...I'm sure he'll do the same for you!
Nice Avatar! from a former High Angle Rescue Team Member!
cale
calenelson wrote: Curmudgeon wrote: Yes.Done it.TOC Done It...Me too! Thanks to TOC! I have a HLW Mack with 9.6v and a DPDT switch...Dave helped "Big Time"...I'm sure he'll do the same for you! Nice Avatar! from a former High Angle Rescue Team Member! Your good. What area did you do rescues in? Im on the Delaware water gap National park team. Its a joint state park and national park team. Sorry for going off topic. cale
Curmudgeon wrote: Yes.Done it.TOC
Your good. What area did you do rescues in? Im on the Delaware water gap National park team. Its a joint state park and national park team. Sorry for going off topic.
Curmudgeon wrote: Yes.Done it.Place the loco on the rails, apply power until you get the speed you want, place a voltmeter across the rails, and e-mail me with the voltage.TOC
That sounds good. I have to get a volt meter first. When I get it I will let you know. Thanks again. Im still in my planning stages for my RR but I saw a guy on mylargescale has a set, backwoods RR and he runs the smaller trains this way or something similar. I really liked his set up and toying with a similar idea. Seems a little more cost effective.
I am going to be doing that very thing with some 7/8n2 projects I have planned.
I'm going to be using these lightweight Li Ion packs -
http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=508
and 25 watt (fine for small locos) motor drivers kits I found on eBay for $10 -
http://cgi.ebay.com/25-watt-PWM-Driver-Dimmer-KIT-fits-all-Luxeon-Star-Leds_W0QQitemZ250204315917QQihZ015QQcategoryZ66954QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
-Brian
Brian,
This sounds exactly like what I've been looking for on the web. Please verify that it controls motor speed. I'm not knowledgeable with the new terminology or technology.
If it is useful as speed controller, I suppose that pot shaft is the speed/ brightness controller? Wonder how one would hook one of the infra-red tv controller receiver boards to it to make it remote? I've been beating thru the web looking for that info. I can't get it straight in my head how everything fits together. (Ya gotta consider, I remember when R/C model airplane transmitters and receivers had small vacuum tubes in 'em.)
All I need is like, two channels. One for speed, one for fwd/rev. Maybe a whistle/bell?
These 'beginning electronics' books tell me things I already know, like how to solder, etc. I want block diagrams of how the various boards interconnect, what their named and what they do. Schematics would be even better.
Got a source to point me at for that info? Lastly, what is a 'soft switch' as Peter Jones described having in that cardboard critter a couple of issues back? I assume it is a push on/off switch that doesn't use much pressure? Where would one obtain them?
Sorry 'bout all the questions, but you really hit on the one area I haven't found anything out about, yet.
Thanks,
Les W.
hoofe116 wrote:Brian,This sounds exactly like what I've been looking for on the web. Please verify that it controls motor speed. I'm not knowledgeable with the new terminology or technology.If it is useful as speed controller, I suppose that pot shaft is the speed/ brightness controller? Wonder how one would hook one of the infra-red tv controller receiver boards to it to make it remote? I've been beating thru the web looking for that info. I can't get it straight in my head how everything fits together. (Ya gotta consider, I remember when R/C model airplane transmitters and receivers had small vacuum tubes in 'em.)All I need is like, two channels. One for speed, one for fwd/rev. Maybe a whistle/bell? These 'beginning electronics' books tell me things I already know, like how to solder, etc. I want block diagrams of how the various boards interconnect, what their named and what they do. Schematics would be even better.Got a source to point me at for that info? Lastly, what is a 'soft switch' as Peter Jones described having in that cardboard critter a couple of issues back? I assume it is a push on/off switch that doesn't use much pressure? Where would one obtain them?Sorry 'bout all the questions, but you really hit on the one area I haven't found anything out about, yet.Thanks,Les W.
Hi Les,
Yes, its a simple motor speed controller with PWM (pulse width modulation). The kit is just a small pcb with about a dozen components. It should be pretty simple to put together. Its rated 25 watts so it should be good for 16 volts at 1.5 amps. It would need an on/off and a dpdt switch hooked up to it for on off and reverse. I'm just going to have a simple on/off toggle since the trains I'll be using it for will be running pretty slow anyway.
You can find a variety of push button switches at allelectronics .com -
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category/700325/Pushbutton.html
Beyond that, I have no idea!
Heres a simple way I set it up for my grand daughter.
The she can turn it on/off at will.
I got a volt meter (I think it is) Here is a picture of what I got. It measures everything. My guess is I want to measure DC. The DC starts at 0 and goes up to 250. Here is the thing it has a dial that goes from 500 to 10. What should it be set at. Acording to the directios (are not good at all) says to start the dial at the highest # 500 and work down until the pointer reads in the upper half of the cale. I have no idea what to do or what it means. It is a Sperry SP-10A. If you can help me to work it that would be great. It was the only thing I could find without spending over 30 bucks. Thanks here is a link to the manual
http://www.awsperry.com/sperry/documents/sp-10a.pdf
The picture is pretty fuzzy (and huge on blow up!).
Set the dial to DC voltage somewhere in the 20 - 100 volt range on the dial (I can't read the markings). Put your train on the tracks and turn it up to speed to where you want to run it. Stick the probes up to the rails (one probe on each rail) and read the voltage. It will read positive or negative voltage depending on which rails you attach the probes. That's about it.
added - I just looked at the manual. Set it to the 50v setting.
I use batteries from Harbor Freight. They are only $9.99 or less and seem to work ok. They are 18 volts and probably around 1.5 - 2.0 amp hour. I remove them from their case. Hard to beat the price.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93655
M. Gilger - President and Chief Engineer MM&G web
Web Site: http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com/
mgilger wrote:I use batteries from Harbor Freight. They are only $9.99 or less and seem to work ok. They are 18 volts and probably around 1.5 - 2.0 amp hour. I remove them from their case. Hard to beat the price.http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93655
The HarborFreight batteries are only 1.3 Ah
I purchased all my batteries from Cordless Renovations in Iowa. They manufacture custom-built battery-packs for G Scale Trains with high capacity and high mah cells. If I'm correct, they are the battery-manufacturer for all of RCS of NE Systems. Check them out www.cordlessrenovations.com
Get the Garden Railways newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month